Finger rub

jds_1981
jds_1981 Posts: 1,858
edited May 2015 in Cyclocross
Anyone had a similar problem/found a solution to the following?
I find after riding along rough ground (towpath speedhump style stuff) I've sore middle fingers due to them rubbing against the inside of the brake/shifter levers.
I've wondered whether I could wrap the levers a bit near the top but not convinced this is feasible.
Thanks.
FCN 9 || FCN 5

Comments

  • roger_merriman
    roger_merriman Posts: 6,165
    jds_1981 wrote:
    Anyone had a similar problem/found a solution to the following?
    I find after riding along rough ground (towpath speedhump style stuff) I've sore middle fingers due to them rubbing against the inside of the brake/shifter levers.
    I've wondered whether I could wrap the levers a bit near the top but not convinced this is feasible.
    Thanks.

    do you mean the the brake lever or the hoods?

    possibly if you don't some gloves might help?
  • jds_1981
    jds_1981 Posts: 1,858
    Rubs on the inside of the levers. Wearing gloves so need something extra.
    FCN 9 || FCN 5
  • ravey1981
    ravey1981 Posts: 1,111
    I can't really picture whats going on here. Never had a similar problem. Can you adjust the levers to give you more gap between the shift lever and the bars? As far as I know some sram levers can do this, not sure with Shimano...
  • tgotb
    tgotb Posts: 4,714
    Are you gripping the body of the shifter with your middle and ring fingers? If so, this may be your real issue. On terrain where you need to have a really solid grip, you're generally better off in the drops. Three fingers for a really firm grip on the bars, and index finger on the brake lever. Watch any pro race, and you'll see riders switching into the drops for every descent - the #SVENNESS videos often pick up this point.
    Pannier, 120rpm.
  • jds_1981
    jds_1981 Posts: 1,858
    Currently on the hoods, going on the drops would probably resolve the issue for the flat sections, but some of the ups are easier on the hoods as they require a bit of weight movement for traction https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@51.52358 ... e5!6m1!1e1


    As they are essentially man-made rock gardens I use a loose grip which contributes to the problem.
    FCN 9 || FCN 5
  • tgotb
    tgotb Posts: 4,714
    jds_1981 wrote:
    Currently on the hoods, going on the drops would probably resolve the issue for the flat sections, but some of the ups are easier on the hoods as they require a bit of weight movement for traction https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@51.52358 ... e5!6m1!1e1


    As they are essentially man-made rock gardens I use a loose grip which contributes to the problem.
    See that sign to the left of the picture? Off the bike about two paces before the first step, right hand under the toptube, and lift the bike just far enough to clear the steps as you run up them (no need to shoulder it for a short run-up like this). Once you get to the top, *place* the bike on the ground, hop back on, and off you go. Not only have you obeyed the sign, it'll actually be quicker; it's (not) a race, not a trials course.

    If there are lots of these on your commute, you're probably better off without toe studs...
    Pannier, 120rpm.

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