Busted rear Fulcrum 4 wheel - what should I do?

RC21

On my way home from work the chain slipped off the cassette, got caught in the spokes and seized up the rear wheel . . . on a triple carriage way. Thankfully it didn't buckle and I managed to control it, but the driver who had to stop so he didn't hit me wasn't happy about the situation.

It was a bit of a pain getting home. I tried to get on a tram but was kicked off, but managed to grab a taxi in the end. After assessing the damage 6 spokes have snapped completely and 2 are bent.



What do you think I should do? The wheel isn't old, it's probably done less than 500 miles but I think it's going to be an expensive repair. After doing a quick search Fulcrum 4 spokes are quite expensive (£13 each, i think), add in labour (no idea how much this would cost) and I think it's probably not worth it. . . Should I replace it or get it fixed?

rick_chasey

PM ugo.

ddraver

or take it to a shop you trust and ask them what it ll cost

sloppyschleckonds

Get your rear mech set up correctly

rolf_f

Never mind that - how on earth does that work having the speed/cadence sensor on the drive side chainstay?!

As to the wheel - I think you might have to budget for all the spokes being replaced after that incident. I can't imagine that the remaining straight spokes are exactly happy anymore.

The Rookie

New spokes and rebuild the wheel, cost circa £35-40.

Make sure the rear mech is set up correctly next time!

UndercoverElephant

First adjust the limit screws on the rear mech so this never happens again.

Probably need to replace all of the spokes, at least those on the drive side. I suspect that you'd do better replacing with a non-Fulcrum alternative (CX Ray, for instance), that are available as straight-pull spokes. There are 14 on the drive side (I think) on that wheel, and the spokes are a maximum of £4 each. so £56 plus a re-build of about £20. Cheaper than a new wheel.

UndercoverElephant

Rolf F wrote:

Never mind that - how on earth does that work having the speed/cadence sensor on the drive side chainstay?!

Shirley it makes no difference which chainstay it's on?

pinarello_fan

UndercoverElephant wrote:

Rolf F wrote:

Never mind that - how on earth does that work having the speed/cadence sensor on the drive side chainstay?!

Shirley it makes no difference which chainstay it's on?

It doesn't..

debeli

Certainly that looks like a repair, not a write-off.

If the rim is true and the hub is good, get it repaired or buy the spokes and do the repair.

Those who've advised above about limit screws are on the money. That is a very, very simple service (maintenance) check and takes only seconds to get right. It also rarely ever shifts unless bashed or rubbed.

If the cost doesn't amuse you, commute on cheaper wheels. I used to commute (latterly) on inappropriately posh and light wheels, so I can't mock... but people took the Mickey out of me for doing so and will do the same to you.

Most importantly, set your limit screws and gearshift correctly. This time it was inconvenient, expensive and embarrassing. Next time it might be hurty.

RC21

Thanks guys, all good advice. I'll triple check the limit screws.

I don't think Ugo is too far from me (South London) I'll drop him note.

RC

ugo.santalucia

The main issue is if the rim is bent or not.

Each spoke carries a load of ca. 120 Kg, so when you snap a few, the rim experiences quite a lateral pull, which can bend it out of shape. Once it's bent, it's only good as garden decoration and the wheel is good for the skip, given the cost of spares.
However, if the rim is not bent out of shape, then it is fixable... the 13 pounds you mention is for a pack of 4 spokes and nipples, so "only" 26 pounds in spokes...

rolf_f

pinarello_fan wrote:

UndercoverElephant wrote:

Rolf F wrote:

Never mind that - how on earth does that work having the speed/cadence sensor on the drive side chainstay?!

Shirley it makes no difference which chainstay it's on?

It doesn't..

I'd have just assumed there would be issues with the chain getting tangled up in it. Like if you were anywhere near small small. I've been working on my touring bike lately which has small rings front and rear so the chain gets very close to the chain stay but maybe it isn't an issue on a road bike. It's never occurred to me to try it so it was just an assumption!