Rear Derailleur Not Compatible?
DanielG15
Posts: 10
My 6/7 speed Shimano Tourney mech broke on me so I bought a 7/8 speed Shimano Alivio M410 to replace it. When I fitted the new derailleur, the bike would not shift any lower than third gear even after adjusting the H L screws and the cable tension. My LBS then told me that the new derailleur isn't compatible with my shifter (Shimano Altus EF51 EZ Fire Plus). Is this correct? If so, what shifter would be compatible? Thanks!
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They are wrong. It should work. Detach the cable totally, unscrew both limit screws and check if it reaches each side of the cassette moving it by hand.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
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The shifter needs to be in the correct gear when you attach the cable.
If it wasn't when you attached the cable you won't be able to shift into all the gears.0 -
And find a new LBS!Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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DanielG15 wrote:cooldad wrote:They are wrong. It should work. Detach the cable totally, unscrew both limit screws and check if it reaches each side of the cassette moving it by hand.0
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cobba wrote:The shifter needs to be in the correct gear when you attach the cable.
If it wasn't when you attached the cable you won't be able to shift into all the gears.0 -
The Rookie wrote:And find a new LBS!0
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Some are good, some are bad, and I've had worse from a small single retailer.
Does it shift correctly across each gear and just not reach the extreme, if not it's possible you've routed the cable wrong which changes the cable pull ratio and can cause your exact symptom.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
The Rookie wrote:Some are good, some are bad, and I've had worse from a small single retailer.
Does it shift correctly across each gear and just not reach the extreme, if not it's possible you've routed the cable wrong which changes the cable pull ratio and can cause your exact symptom.0 -
Show us a photo of where the cable is clamped to the rear mech and we can see if it's wrong.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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The Rookie wrote:Show us a photo of where the cable is clamped to the rear mech and we can see if it's wrong.0
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The 90 degree bend in the cable doesn't look good. Possibly the outer is too short?
Looking again, is the mech mounted on the hanger correctly so it's not rotated forward?0 -
Possibly? No, you need new cables and outer at the back with a nice smooth run in to to mech. That'll never work0
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Chunkers1980 wrote:Possibly? No, you need new cables and outer at the back with a nice smooth run in to to mech. That'll never work0
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New inner too. You've ruined that one. They are about £1.50 from Wilkos. The mangled bit will be in the middle of the outer and that will drag0
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There'll be stops on both the mech itself and the hanger, if they weren't lined up when the mech was fitted it can rotate on the bolt connecting the two0
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Chunkers1980 wrote:New inner too. You've ruined that one. They are about £1.50 from Wilkos. The mangled bit will be in the middle of the outer and that will dragI don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
cooldad wrote:Chunkers1980 wrote:New inner too. You've ruined that one. They are about £1.50 from Wilkos. The mangled bit will be in the middle of the outer and that will drag
Maybe too late for that, best to get a new chain as well they are very cheap for 7/8 speed.0 -
The rear cable loop should be similar to this.
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