brakepad rub after truing back wheel

mutsnuts1989
mutsnuts1989 Posts: 8
edited April 2015 in MTB workshop & tech
Basically I had my back wheel trued 2 weeks ago and since I had it done I've noticed my rear brake pad rub. I've centred the calliper and everything and I'm stuck for ideas. I'm guessing after having a back wheel that had a slight wobble in it for more than less a year has been causing my back brake pads to close unevenly on the rotor. I'm wondering if anyone else has had this problem and knows whether or not to buy new pads or just simply let it bed in. By the way my rotor is fine..

Thanks :)

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    True get your wheel will have zero effect on the brake. As you aren't changing the hub just the rim.

    But the effect of removing and replacing the wheel can result in the hub and disc not being in the correct place.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • mutsnuts1989
    mutsnuts1989 Posts: 8
    I had my spokes adjusted so a new wheel replacement didn't happen... this is why I'm confused to why this is happening.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Unless you haven't put the wheel back in exactly the same way the truing will have no effect.

    Loosen qr, push down on rear to make sure it's properly in the dropouts and retightening, if it still rubs, then normal actions apply.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • mutsnuts1989
    mutsnuts1989 Posts: 8
    I have done everything. Reallighned the calliper without the pads and with the pads by braking. Washed the calliper and pads. Checked to see if my rotor is warped, put the wheel on with downwards pressure. I'm stumpped. I just need the noise to bugger off.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    Go ride.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Rightarmbad
    Rightarmbad Posts: 216
    Depending on how the preload is set on your wheel, adjusting the bearings to remove play may indeed have an effect on the position of your rotor in your caliper.
    If it had a bunch of play and the mechanic adjusted the bearings to remove the play to true it, it may have shifted and if resetting the caliper does not seem to fix it, it may be that the bearings really need to be replaced and you are running out of range of the movement of the caliper to compensate for wheel movement.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I'd love to here your explanation of how changing the preload on the bearings moves the hub relative to the locknuts (the bits that bear on the frame)......

    Qr has such a tiny effect as to be irrelevant, as it's effect is equal on both sides.....

    Not the best 'advice' I've read for sure.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • mutsnuts1989
    mutsnuts1989 Posts: 8
    I've been riding it and it still won't go. Would be nice to be able to fix the problem. Nothing worse than hearing a scratching sound all the time when you stop pedaling.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    The Rookie wrote:
    I'd love to here your explanation of how changing the preload on the bearings moves the hub relative to the locknuts (the bits that bear on the frame)......

    Qr has such a tiny effect as to be irrelevant, as it's effect is equal on both sides.....

    Not the best 'advice' I've read for sure.
    Erm as the cones and cup wear the OLD can reduce. As can the finished grind where you can have quite a difference between two hubs but both are still in tolerance.

    Things are a bit better now but still not great.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    nicklouse wrote:
    The Rookie wrote:
    I'd love to here your explanation of how changing the preload on the bearings moves the hub relative to the locknuts re.
    Erm as the cones and cup wear the OLD can reduce.
    Erm But from before the truing to after there will have been no wear, hence why I said preload.....
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.

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