Going 1x9

Craig24
Craig24 Posts: 150
edited April 2015 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi,

Got my new bike (new to me anyway) arriving on Monday, its a stock Giant Trance x3 2013. I currently have 1x9 setup on my current bike and love the simplicity and don't feel I need any lower and higher gearing. I'd like to go 1x9 on this new bike.

Its got a Shimano Deore M592, 9-Speed rear derailleur and a Shimano M542 crankset.

Can anyone advise me on the cheapest / easiest way to go 1x9?

I'm thinking I just need a N/W 32T front chain ring, take the other 3 off, replace with this. Then remove front shifter and derailleur? Do I then need a bash or chain-guide?

Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Just the NW ring and either shorter bolts or a thin bash unless you get the on-one NW which is so thick you can use the bolts from the current setup.

    No need for a guide I've found, and while a short cage mech is preferable I didn't have an issue when running a long.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Craig24
    Craig24 Posts: 150
    Cheers Rookie, so a chain guide is not always needed? Should I shorten the chain?
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Yes. If you are removing the big ring it needs resizing with the new one.
    I don't do smileys.

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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    In my experience you don't need a guide, no, you should shorten the chain to suite, it will reduce chain slap for example, but you don't 'have' to, it will work if you don't!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    You do need to shorten it if you are removing the big ring.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    It will work perfectly well if you don't, no different to being on the middle ring with one either side as it is now, so need is the wrong word, as would have, but I agree ideally you should and it is better if you do.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Being a bit OCD - better = need.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • Craig24
    Craig24 Posts: 150
    Ok I will shorten it. I've got a RaceFace NW coming next week so I will give it ago.

    Any advice on how much to remove, or a guide of some sort? Not done this before. Thanks.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    cooldad wrote:
    Being a bit OCD - better = need.
    I'll allow you to pander to your OCD CD.......Oh.......
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • cubedean
    cubedean Posts: 670
    I run 1 x 9 with no guide and it's fine, not dropped the chain once, the only thing I would say is spend some time making sure you have a good chain line.
  • Dirtydog11
    Dirtydog11 Posts: 1,621
    Chainline should be fine, middle position of a triple gives the best chainline for use across the full range of the cassette.