Speedplay Light Action - heel catching chain stay

Quizmate

Just fitted some Speedplay Light Action Pedals, which unlike the zero don't allow any adjustment to limit inward movement of the heel, but rather allow a full 15 degrees of free float. I've noticed my right heel sometimes brushes the chainstay ever so slightly. It's certainly not doing it all the time just every now and then, especially if tired or pushing too hard when my stroke gets a bit ragged. I know Speedplay do different length spindles (light action are 55mm in any case as opposed to Zero's 53mm), but it's a pricey option I believe so I wondered if anyone else has had and solved a similar problem. I can put a protective patch on the stay in the meantime. Any thoughts greatly appreciated.

dilatory

Sounds like your feet are all over the place and it could be a negative to your knees. You'd probably be better with adjustable float I'd say.

Quizmate

dilatory wrote:

Sounds like your feet are all over the place and it could be a negative to your knees. You'd probably be better with adjustable float I'd say.

No not at all. The light Actions have been very easy on my knees. I've moved from Time RXS which is a great pedal, but like Look and Shimano I could never work out which angle to set the cleats to (and I've never met a bike fitter that could tell me despite their supposed expertise). This and a retul fit that set my saddle way too high was causing trouble so I thought I'd just remove the cleat angle issue and so far so good. My right heel comes in naturally and 99 % of the time does not touch the chainstay. Its just the odd duff pedal stroke that brings it too far over and I want to avoid wear to paint / carbon if I can.

crikey

Put some tape on the crank arm and crack on....

sloppyschleckonds

^Helicopter tape, for those with legs, knees and heals all over the place

First.Aspect

Speedplay pedals take a little getting used to, that's all. Unlike other pedals with float, Speedplay has a metal-metal interface. This has a lot less friction than plastic-metal and allows some movement of foot position during the pedal stroke. The ice skating sensation goes away fairly soon as your control improves. You will probably also find that you stop hitting the stays with your heel.

If not, move the cleats towards the inside of the foot slightly. Or add an extra pedal washer. Or get a new frame. Or smaller shoes.

gcwebbyuk

I've just switched from MTB pedals to Speedplay Light Action, and find them really good on the knees.

Did you know you can alter the bias of the float using the adjuster on the cleat (where the screw adjusters would be on the zeros). You can't reduce the amount of float, but you can adjust the heel/toe bias. I have mine set in the middle at the moment, but do find the adjuster is a bit loose, and seems to alter itself mid-ride.

sungod

Quizmate wrote:

dilatory wrote:

Sounds like your feet are all over the place and it could be a negative to your knees. You'd probably be better with adjustable float I'd say.

No not at all. The light Actions have been very easy on my knees. I've moved from Time RXS which is a great pedal, but like Look and Shimano I could never work out which angle to set the cleats to (and I've never met a bike fitter that could tell me despite their supposed expertise). This and a retul fit that set my saddle way too high was causing trouble so I thought I'd just remove the cleat angle issue and so far so good. My right heel comes in naturally and 99 % of the time does not touch the chainstay. Its just the odd duff pedal stroke that brings it too far over and I want to avoid wear to paint / carbon if I can.

the point is that unless you need to have your heels moving in-out to this extent, the zeros would allow you to reduce the tendency with no negative effect on you (and indeed some chance of benefit), plus your heels won't be hitting your bike

as it stands, due to the lack of a competent fitter you seem to be giving up and hoping it'll all be ok in the long run, it may be, or you may end up injuring your knees

keezx

First Aspect wrote:

If not, move the cleats towards the inside of the foot slightly. Or add an extra pedal washer. Or get a new frame. Or smaller shoes.

We cal that "put the horse behind the wagon".
Why fix a problem caused by too much movement in the pedal-shoe interface by increasing the Q ?

First.Aspect

otterface

I had the same problem with Look keo cleats, but only with my right foot so got the cleat with no float and now no more scratches on chain stay. My ankle was a bit stiff first couple of rides but have now got used to it, worth a try

debeli

Quizmate wrote:

No not at all. The light Actions have been very easy on my knees. I've moved from Time RXS which is a great pedal, but like Look and Shimano I could never work out which angle to set the cleats to (and I've never met a bike fitter that could tell me despite their supposed expertise). This and a retul fit that set my saddle way too high was causing trouble so I thought I'd just remove the cleat angle issue and so far so good. My right heel comes in naturally and 99 % of the time does not touch the chainstay. Its just the odd duff pedal stroke that brings it too far over and I want to avoid wear to paint / carbon if I can.

I'd ignore the issue completely if I were you, or get some physiotherapy resistance bands and do some work on your ankles and feet to keep them straight when riding.

You are clearly not averse to spending money and experimenting, as evidenced by the number of pedal systems you've tried and then abandoned for something 'better'. However, throwing money at new pedal systems seems to have availed you nought.

You clearly like to investigate thoroughly and explore all options, hence the Retul fit. However, you pour scorn on the Retul expert for setting your saddle way too high... Did it occur to you to mention that during the fitting?

You suggest you've spoken to many bikefitters ("I've never met a bikefitter that could tell me"). What did you do, ask every bikefitter you ever met socially or pay for several bikefits? I am intrigued...

If you are worried about "the odd duff stroke" wearing away paint and carbon, worry not. That would take decades. Look at most properly used bicycles more than a year or so old; they will be covered in scuffs and chips in all the 'chain contact' areas and often near the drop-outs, under the BB and along the cross bar (top tube). Bicycles are built to be ridden and abused, so they will take it.

Ignore the occasional brush against the frame or strengthen the ankle to prevent it. Or go back to Time RXS and read the book about how they work.

Most of all, enjoy your cycling! I hope I have helped, but I fear that perhaps I have not.

Origami02

Do you have the cleats set as far to the inside of your shoes as they'll go? This will obviously push your feet out from the bike and afford a little more heel clearance. The cleats themselves(not the base-plate) have slotted holes that allow this sideways movement.

Quizmate

Origami02 wrote:

Do you have the cleats set as far to the inside of your shoes as they'll go? This will obviously push your feet out from the bike and afford a little more heel clearance. The cleats themselves(not the base-plate) have slotted holes that allow this sideways movement.

Hi, yes that was on my list to try next but the advice is much appreciated though so thank you. I'm getting used to the pedals and heel strike is becoming less of a problem, so as some have suggested I'll "crack on" for the time being and fingers crossed it resolves itself completely. If not I will give moving the cleats inboard a go. Cheers!