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1 x 10 is rough/lumpy!

HighFiveHighFive Posts: 5
edited April 2015 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi

I can't get my head around this. I recently built up an Orange Fiver using the SLX 2x10 groupset from CRC. It was not until I came to fit it that I found the double would not fit on the Five, so went for 1x10. So it now has

Cassette: SLX HG81 11-36t
SLX M675 SGS (Long Cage) Rear Derailleur
Race Face single front ring

The gears shift nicely up and down but when I push down hard on the pedal on the work stand and when riding it feels quite rough and lumpy. I can't see what is causing it

Can anyone shed any light on what might be causing this? Or is it just how 1 x 10s feel? I hope not!

Cheers

Posts

  • The Northern MonkeyThe Northern Monkey Posts: 19,174
    Probably the narrow wide ring (assuming its a narrow wide).

    It will need to wear to the shape of the chain.
    Santa Cruz Butcher
  • HighFiveHighFive Posts: 5
    It is a narrow wide. That seems to make sense! Thanks
  • poahpoah Posts: 3,369
    double cranks don't have a good chain line for 1x
    CCDB IL coil CS first impressions

    MTB Scotland youtube channel
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,811
    Especially if you use the outer location....
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • The Northern MonkeyThe Northern Monkey Posts: 19,174
    POAH wrote:
    double cranks don't have a good chain line for 1x

    Tis fine.

    I had to move a DS spacer to NDS with the 40T expander, but with a normal cassette its no issue at all. Been running it for years.
    Santa Cruz Butcher
  • HighFiveHighFive Posts: 5
    Er, what? Sorry, you lost me a bit there. It's been a while since I've dabbled with bike building. Do I need to start looking for a single specific crank or will my nice new SLX ones be ok? I got I bit lost with what spacer needs to go where and using the 'outer location'. Is that on the outside of the crank as opposed to the inside.

    Excuse my ignorance, it's been a while
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,811
    You don't need a single specific crank, but with a 2x, the outer location is outside the nominal chainline and the inner location inside it, so neither is 'right' that said rear hubs can put the rear cassette in slightly different locations, so it's worth measuring the chainline at the rear and putting the single specific run in the location that better matches it, if both are as bad as each other, then I'd use the inner as you are more likely to load up the system in a low than a higher gear in my opinion.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • HighFiveHighFive Posts: 5
    Thanks for your help! Time to learn about chainlines.
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