Noobie Needs Tyre Help (solved) - Pins and needles in hands?

leroy12
leroy12 Posts: 5
edited April 2015 in MTB beginners
Just turned 30 and getting back into mountain biking (was avid throughout my teens).
I managed to pick up a barely used 2008 “Focus Killer Bee Disc” at a very good price and am overall very happy with the bike (after changing the cheap original pedals).

The only thing I'm not happy with is the tyres. The front “Swallbe Racing Ralph” I'm finding very twitchy and it drifts side to side a lot during pedalling on tarmac. The Rear is a “Specialized Fast Trak” and seems to be a bit sticky/slow.

Tioga was the brand of choice when I was a teen but they don’t seem to be so popular nowadays. And, there are a lot of brands around now that I’m unfamiliar with.

My ridding consists of 50/50 tarmac/trails, so am after good all round tyres that are not ridiculously expensive.

Any suggestions/advice will be greatly appreciated
Cheers

Comments

  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    Whats good on dirt isnt good on tarmac. Racing Ralphs are about as good a compromise as you will find.
    Tioga havent made a good tyre since the Black Turtle went out of production.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    The Schwalbe Smart Sam is a good compromise tyre, also the Panaracer Fire XC Pro works OK across a range of surfaces, but nothing is ideal on and off road.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • leroy12
    leroy12 Posts: 5
    Both tyres look like what I'm after and I can get for roughly the same price, but which are better?
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    I would say Kenda Small Block 8 unless it's muddy.

    There is no better per se.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • JBA
    JBA Posts: 2,852
    Another vote here for Small Block 8. They are a good choice for a mixture of road and off-road riding except, as cooled says, when it is very muddy.
    Pump them up good and hard for the road riding and let air out for off-road.
    “Life has been unfaithful
    And it all promised so so much”

    Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Sonder Broken Road 2021¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Toughtroad SLR 1 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 2009
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Small block 8's are great unless it's at all muddy when the other two I mentioned are much much better.

    SB8's cope fine on grass and gravel though.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • leroy12
    leroy12 Posts: 5
    After the advice and research and actually looking at the tyres in my local shop I decided to go with th Smart Sam's. I've been on a couple rides since fitting and I'm extremely happy with them.

    The only other issue I've been having is I'm getting pins and needles in my hands after about 30mins of riding. Could this be riding position or poor grips or something else?

    Should I create a new post for this or rename this one?

    Cheers
  • robertpb
    robertpb Posts: 1,866
    Try loosening your grip on the bars, it should always be be as lighter touch as you can manage given trail conditions.
    Now where's that "Get Out of Crash Free Card"
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    If it has cheap and nasty grips that can cause a problem, as can large hands on thin grips, otherwise you are probably just holding on too tight.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • wilberforce
    wilberforce Posts: 316
    ^^^^^. I used to get same problem. Changes to ODI Rogue's which are a bit thicker and problem solved
  • JBA
    JBA Posts: 2,852
    Check / adjust the angle of your brake levers as well. They should be in line with your forearm.
    If they are too high you can put too much pressure on the balls of your hands and this can cause pins and needles.
    “Life has been unfaithful
    And it all promised so so much”

    Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Sonder Broken Road 2021¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Toughtroad SLR 1 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 2009
  • RutlandGav
    RutlandGav Posts: 144
    I am prone to carpal tunnel syndrome - got narrow wrists, if i grip anything tight for too long - telephone, mouse, handlebars - i get pins and needles. When i got back into biking, i ended up with pins and needles that took a couple of weeks to clear up from my first ride !

    Bike fit might have something to do with it.

    In my case i was able to solve the problem completely by fitting triathalon bars to my mtb - now i'm resting my forward body weight on my forearms rather than my wrist bones. It also shifts more weight forward making things easier on the seat area, and makes you more aerodynamic (faster).

    The downside is that you can only really use this cruising on quiet roads, since you can't brake or change gear and have less control of the bike. It's also hard getting this stuff to fit a mtb, it's meant for roadies.

    My MTB handles ok on the tri-bars, as did my first MTB - i can stay on the tri bars down to walking pace, and even when standing on the pedals to climb. But the second MTB became unpleasantly twitchy after clipping the bars on. Then again, when i finally removed the bars years later, it was no better - think the headset was shot.

    Thread with pics of my bar setup on current bike (the 3rd MTB converted to tri-bar)

    viewtopic.php?f=40052&t=13022484
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    What's the point of a mountain bike you can only use on quiet roads with no brakes?
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • RutlandGav
    RutlandGav Posts: 144
    cooldad wrote:
    What's the point of a mountain bike you can only use on quiet roads with no brakes?

    Depends what proportion of your riding is off-road/in town. I'm on the tri-bars 75% of the time, which makes it possible for me to ride.

    Alternatively, my GP offered to refer me for wrist surgery. Get both wrists cut open so they can rearrange the internals and make more room for the nerve bundle. Being unable to work/workout/w**k for a few months didn't really sell the idea.