Unstable out of the saddle

I've come from an MTB background, and found cycling out of the saddle quite stable (probably due to the width of the bar).
I now have a road bike (Canyon Endurace), and am finding it a little unstable when I am out of the saddle powering up hills.
Is it just a case of getting more road miles under my belt to get used to the bike more - or is there anything I can work on on/off the bike to aid stability - core exercises maybe?
I now have a road bike (Canyon Endurace), and am finding it a little unstable when I am out of the saddle powering up hills.
Is it just a case of getting more road miles under my belt to get used to the bike more - or is there anything I can work on on/off the bike to aid stability - core exercises maybe?
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Road - Wilier Izoard Centaur/Cube Agree C62 Disc
Allround - Cotic Solaris
Just takes practice - you will get used to it with time.
Ridley R6 EL
No the stem...
Yeah the hoods. I tend to spend 80% of my time there.
Canyon Endurace CF8.0
TrainerRoad Career
Strava
You'll just get used to it, when I first started for example I found the drops horrendously unstable, now I find the opposite!
Road - Wilier Izoard Centaur/Cube Agree C62 Disc
Allround - Cotic Solaris
2011 Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc (son #3s)
2013 Decathlon Triban 3 (red) (mine)
2019 Hoy Bonaly 26" Disc (son #2s)
2018 Voodoo Bizango (mine)
2018 Voodoo Maji (wife's)
I've got a trip planned for Easter week to York to go cycling with a mate from the area, need to be used to the hills by then...
Canyon Endurace CF8.0
TrainerRoad Career
Strava
No idea, it just isn't an issue.
I like a lot of pressure in my tyres, if they are slightly lower than I want I can sometimes feel the tyre squashing down when I stand and throw down the power.
If you forks aren't very good they could be flexing when you push the bike from site to site.
On my winter bike it came with cheap wheels. I used to use the old Garmin speed/cadence sensor on the bike. When I would site down and cycle the sensor would work as you'd expect. When I would stand up and throw down the pressure the cheap wheels would flex and the spoke magnet would hit the Garmin sensor.
MTB handlebars are significantly wider than road, so no surprises there.
I had it a bit for the first couple of rides with my upgrade bike with a 38cm handlebar over a 40cm FWIW.
Just practice, you'll be fine.
People on forums have a tendency to spend too much time overthinking the answer. Don't worry about the quality of your bike - they're bloody lovely bikes, canyons.
Canyon Endurace CF8.0
TrainerRoad Career
Strava
But the point still stands, accepting that the bike doesn't sway around more than, say, 10-15 degrees off perpendicular - you've got a body which is trying to stay steady, the bike swaying left to right (and therefore the plane of the pedals swaying with similar angles) so your ankle has to match that angle too in order for the foot to stay flat on the pedal. Perhaps I'm swaying too much, or just too sensitive to this, but it does feel like my knees come under some strain in this phase.
2011 Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc (son #3s)
2013 Decathlon Triban 3 (red) (mine)
2019 Hoy Bonaly 26" Disc (son #2s)
2018 Voodoo Bizango (mine)
2018 Voodoo Maji (wife's)
I came to road biking from mountain biking and found pedalling while standing much harder on a road bike but after some practice found the balance point of the bike when stood up and it is now fine. I use the hoods as it is much easier for me to balance.
Your right it is just practice
Thanks chaps
I must admit I've never thought about putting weight over the front makes it more stable (I'd have thought shifting the center of gravity forward would make the front even more twitchy) but that is what you naturally do when out of the saddle so it must help.