TRP Spyre set up issues - rotor shims needed?

luv2ride

Hi all. I've posted a few times about my problems with TrP Spyres on my Crosslight Pro6 disc 'crosser. I had "resolved" the poor braking by replacing both pads and rotors from the OE items with Nukeproof pads and SRAM Centreline discs, but was still not perfect. Just bought a second pair of Kinesis CXD wheels since converting the original wheels to tubeless for my cross tyres, thinking I'd have a wheelset fitted with road tyres (Randonneur Pros) for quick swaps.

Just fitted the road tyres, and OE TRP disc rotors to the new wheels and, again, the braking is p**s poor. I had cleaned the rotors with isopropyl alcohol before fitting and made sure I didn't handle the braking surface with bare hands. There is what I would describe as "flutter" from both front and rear brakes. I've got ok braking at the front now, but the rear remains woeful.

When stationary I notice that the rotor moves when the pistons move the pads to the rotor (deflection?). I can't move the calipers any further inboard to counter this or they'll foul the spokes. Do I need rotor shims to space them out a bit and make them more central to the caliper?

cheers

dj58

When you say "flutter" do you mean that when you apply the brakes you are getting a vibration? If so that could indicate that the disc has runout, not mounted flush/evenly with the hub mounting seat or the discs could be warped. I assume you have watched the video on the TRP website?
http://www.trpbrakes.com/category.php?p ... &catid=206

luv2ride

Yes, brakes installed following the video instructions. The "flutter" is a light vibration, but it's more of a sound than a feel if that makes sense, certainly different to brake judder. When looking down at the rotor, it bends by a good 1mm when the brake is applied, but I can't get the caliper any more central over the rotor. Given this is the 2nd set of CXD wheels this is happening on, I'm wondering whether the frame is out, or whether the post mounts might need facing?

Slightly annoyed though as many use this brake on the frame (this was a self build of a frameset) and by all accounts it should be a case of fit and go. This has already prompted the purchase of new rotors (and now a 2nd set of rotors for the new wheels), and now some Syntace rotor shims that I could only source from Bike24 in Germany

As a straight comparison, I took my singlespeed out yesterday after replacing its freewheel. It's fitted with standard Tektro Vee Brakes and old pads. I almost went over the bars when braking, such is the difference with my TRP Spyres. Can't be right.

veronese68

That definitely doesn't sound right. Are the pads individually adjustable? My old BB7s had adjusters so you could wind the pads in to compensate for wear. Can you wind in the inboard adjuster so the pads sit centrally over the disc?
Hopefully the hubs will be the same so once the disc is central for one set of wheels it will work for the other. I don't think facing the mounts will help as that will only ensure the pads are parallel to the disc, it won't allow the caliper to move sideways any more.

luv2ride

The Spyres have individual pad adjustment, that is to say you can wind both pads in independently of each other, using a hex key on each side of the caliper. Each time I try to centre the caliper over the rotor I start with the pads both wound out as far as possible. The other adjustment is via the cable adjuster at the caliper, which the best way of adjusting them, as it should bring in or back off the pistons on both sides equally. Maybe that the other thing; perhaps one or both of the pistons aren't retracting fully after application? Can't see that happening front and back though...

nicklouse

yes when swapping wheels it is common that you will need to readjust the caliper.

you could as you suggest shim one disc per end to get them in about the right place. but as pads wear they will not be correct for long.

easier just to re adjust the caliper each time. and remember that the pads will need to bed in again.