Chain that doesn't rust after a wet weekend in the shed?

timothyw
timothyw Posts: 2,482
edited February 2015 in Road buying advice
Hi all
Can anyone recommend a chain that won't go rusty after a wet ride?

I'm using a Shimano 105 10-speed chain at the moment, and it gets distinctly rusty when it has been wet.

Cheers

Comments

  • gimpl
    gimpl Posts: 269
    Any chain will rust if it isn't lubricated properly - doesn't need to be much, just a bit of a rub down after a wet ride and a few drops of oil - JD.
  • In simple words the solution is to throw time at the problem rather than money. I am pretty sure if you search hard enough you will find an overpriced stainless chain or one that has been coated with some special ceramic, but that only goes some way to replace a rag and a few drops of oil
    left the forum March 2023
  • May be the OP can afford to replace his chain after every ride?
    I'm sorry you don't believe in miracles
  • timothyw
    timothyw Posts: 2,482
    I've got a four month old baby (and first time mother) to look after so I'm not averse to throwing money instead of time at the problem.

    I have been liberally greasing, I'm just hoping something better might be out there....
  • Omar Little
    Omar Little Posts: 2,010
    I tend to spray the chain / cassette with gt85 after cleaning it quickly with a rag. Then lube it properly (if needed) when i take it out next time for a ride. Doesnt take long to do and stops the chain getting rusty
  • I'm not sure there is such a thing I'm afraid- most metals will show some form of corrosion when exposed to water and salt, and because of the constant wearing the corrosion will be stripped off exposing more metal to corrode making the problem worse.

    It is a nightmare in the current conditions- I've had a chain and cassette rust up despite thorough cleaning. Your best bet as the others have said is when you get home spray liberally with GT-85, with a small amount on the cassette too. This should displace the water and stop it rusting in the shed.
    It only takes less than a minute but you should see a big improvement.

    If you have time running the chain through kitchen towel/ rag to clean off some of the muck and grit before spraying would help the GT-85 do its job a bit easier.

    You can then leave the chain until you have time to clean the chain and re-lube properly hopefully without it rusting in the meantime.
  • craker
    craker Posts: 1,739
    A bit of surface rust will vanish once you start going anyway. New baby or not, giving your chain a once a week lube isn't going to take much time (and beats having a broken chain half way home). In my experience you'll soon start looking for excuses to disappear down to the shed to 'work on the bike' ;-)
  • Rag, revolution, GT85, revolution. Leave.

    I use mine every day to commute, with guards so there's a lot of nastiness. I go through probably 3 chains per year.

    GT85
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  • EP90 gear oil applied liberally then wiped with a rag. I clean and relube monthly and no sign of any corrosion. Bike is used most days but even if i don't use it for a week it doesn't show any corrosion. Just use a thicker lubricant and it should stay on the chain.
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    I have been known to apply moly slip to my chain after oiling it, but only on the commuter. Looks horrible, but the grease helps to keep the water out.
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  • TheHound
    TheHound Posts: 284
    I degrease mine after every ride with just normal citrus stuff that evaporates away the water.

    Then I just leave it dry until next time I go out. Not sure if that's better or worse though.
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  • super_davo
    super_davo Posts: 1,222
    Obviously, the correct answer is good maintenance as everyone has said.
    However, if that's not always possible due to other commitments, I find KMC full nickel plated chains much more tolerant than others. So that's X10L, EL or SL but not X10-93 (replace 10 with 11 or 9 depending on what speed your bike is).
  • jordan_217
    jordan_217 Posts: 2,580
    Take a look at Rock N Roll Extreme lube, it cleans and lubes in one so maintenance is that little bit easier. Doesn't have the staying power of some of the other dedicated winter/wet lubes but I find them a bit too heavy.
    “Training is like fighting with a gorilla. You don’t stop when you’re tired. You stop when the gorilla is tired.”
  • timothyw
    timothyw Posts: 2,482
    super_davo wrote:
    Obviously, the correct answer is good maintenance as everyone has said.
    However, if that's not always possible due to other commitments, I find KMC full nickel plated chains much more tolerant than others. So that's X10L, EL or SL but not X10-93 (replace 10 with 11 or 9 depending on what speed your bike is).

    Many thanks for actually answering the question!

    I'll have a look at the KMC chains, and in the meantime I've adopted a more liberal attitude to GT85'ing the drivechain as a compromise between time and adequate lubrication....
  • dj58
    dj58 Posts: 2,223
    super_davo wrote:
    Obviously, the correct answer is good maintenance as everyone has said.
    However, if that's not always possible due to other commitments, I find KMC full nickel plated chains much more tolerant than others. So that's X10L, EL or SL but not X10-93 (replace 10 with 11 or 9 depending on what speed your bike is).

    ^ This, My bike came with a KMC X10 L chain which appears to resist rusting on the link plates, you still need to do the post wet ride wipe down GT85 quick spay if you are pushed for time, otherwise the rollers will surface rust.
  • iPete
    iPete Posts: 6,076
    Is this for a commute? Unless Muswell Hill really lives up to its name, get a FG/SS. Fit and forget.

    n+1 is always the answer..
  • andyoh
    andyoh Posts: 115
    iPete wrote:
    Is this for a commute? Unless Muswell Hill really lives up to its name, get a FG/SS. Fit and forget.

    n+1 is always the answer..

    You still have to clean and lube the chain regardless of fixed or single speed
  • iPete
    iPete Posts: 6,076
    andyoh wrote:
    iPete wrote:
    Is this for a commute? Unless Muswell Hill really lives up to its name, get a FG/SS. Fit and forget.

    n+1 is always the answer..

    You still have to clean and lube the chain regardless of fixed or single speed

    If you want it clean this true but there is no shifting precision to worry about so why bother.
    You can scrape a thick layer of grime off my chain but it sure keeps on doing its job. The same grime that is probably stopping it rusting :lol:
  • timothyw
    timothyw Posts: 2,482
    That's a whole other story. I have a fixed, the frame broke, the seller agreed to help me out with a warranty claim but has now disappeared so I'm kind of in limbo. I'm thinking about getting on the cyclescheme again to pick up a Day One Disc, it's either that or just buy a new frame and take the hit.
  • marcusjb
    marcusjb Posts: 2,412
    iPete wrote:
    andyoh wrote:
    iPete wrote:
    Is this for a commute? Unless Muswell Hill really lives up to its name, get a FG/SS. Fit and forget.

    n+1 is always the answer..

    You still have to clean and lube the chain regardless of fixed or single speed

    If you want it clean this true but there is no shifting precision to worry about so why bother.
    You can scrape a thick layer of grime off my chain but it sure keeps on doing its job. The same grime that is probably stopping it rusting :lol:

    ^totally.

    A fixed drivetrain can be lavished with the same amount of care and attention as you would give your favourite sledge hammer.

    One of the major advantages, particularly in winter. I use the KMC chains with RB (rust buster!) in the model on fixed - seem good and even the bike that lives outdoors (under cover) doesn't seem to get any rust on it.

    On gears (not that I have ridden a deraillieur bike for about 6 months), I use the higher end KMC chains and never have rust on them.

    I have a bike with Gates Carbon Drives on - that doesn't rust, but it's a bit squeaky in dry and sandy conditions.