Kinesis crosslight cx v3
paul1000
Posts: 190
Anyone run these wheels, was looking at ailerons but these are about a hundred quid cheaper, only for my new winter build so don't want to spend a fortune, or do I go for the aksiums and save a lot more.
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This article refers to the previous model, which was the same but had a marginally heavier rim
http://whosatthewheel.com/2014/12/27/ki ... -any-good/left the forum March 20230 -
Cheers ugo, see what you mean, I suppose because they are disk wheels and I won't be binning them after one winter I want these to last so quality seems the way to go.0
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If you opt to go down the handbuilt route then there are a few pointers in this thread that I started a few days back.
viewtopic.php?f=40042&t=13016622
As far as I recollect, the Kinesis wheels come in at around £270 so not much less than the range I specified.
To add to the wheels mentioned in the above thread Malcolm at Cycleclinic is offering an Archetype/Novatech set at just over £300
http://thecycleclinic.co.uk/collections ... vatec-hubs0 -
Having owned both Kinesis Crosslight V3 and Mavic Aksium One, for rubustness I'd defo go for the Aksium.
I had numerous issues with durability of Kinesis until I had the original spokes replaced. I had a lengthy chat with Derek from Wheelsmith who stated that the Kinesis rims/spokes were not designed for high pressure tyres (as I use disc wheels for my wet weather road bike) hence the durability issues.
Ive not had any issues with Aksium with a good few thousand wet miles in them, but they are 300g heavier than the Kinesis.
I've since had a set of Wheelsmith handbuilts which i'm very happy with (Race24 rims, Sapin CX spokes on Hope Pro2 Evo hubs). They're very light for a disc wheel and freewheel forever.0 -
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yes, I'm running a pair of Cross disc V3's tubeless, using WTB Crosswolf TCS tyres with Stan's tape, and sealant. Seemed to work ok (tyre took a while to get seated on the rear wheel but persevered with the pumping and it was all good). Have had no issues with my wheels, but then they might not get used as much as some folks on here. Tempted to get another set though so I have one set up for tubeless off-road tyres and another running inner tubes and road tyres. good for the money I'd say (got mine for £240'ish).
have run these tyres to good effect on these wheels:
WTB Crosswolf TCS - tubeless
Schwalbe Sammy Slick 35mm - tubed
Specialized Tracer Pro 32mm - tubed
Vittoria Randonneur Pro 32mm - tubed.
Internal rims are quite wide so give a plush feel to the fitted tyre. Running them tubeless off-road has been something of a revelation though 8)Titus Silk Road Ti rigid 29er - Scott Solace 10 disc - Kinesis Crosslight Pro6 disc - Scott CR1 SL - Pinnacle Arkose X 650b - Pinnacle Arkose singlespeed - Specialized Singlecross...& an Ernie Ball Musicman Stingray 4 string...0 -
thanks for the response.
how do you (in general) identify a tubeless rim.0 -
gaffer_slow wrote:thanks for the response.
how do you (in general) identify a tubeless rim.
By the channel and the ramps... read this
http://whosatthewheel.com/2015/02/21/cl ... -tubulars/left the forum March 20230 -
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They are not Novatec... Chosen maybe? But not too sure eitherleft the forum March 20230
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Literally LOADS of reviews out there from extremely happy users of the Crosslights - I think they are the best cheap disc wheels you can get - however not at £270. Starting at £300 upwards you could get handbuilts which should be better (something like http://thecycleclinic.co.uk/products/h- ... vatec-hubs or http://wheels.23mm.co.uk/Off-the-peg-Archetype for instance). I bought mine at around £210 as a spare for my handbuilts that I spent £500 on, so that if they have a problem or are being serviced etc, I still have a backup set to run the bike. Havent used them much on that basis but they seem fine to me.0
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Hi I am in a similar situation. Very pleased with the Crosslight when running 32 mm tyres but when I swapped to 28 mm running at 80 psi I had plenty of issues with spokes - 3 spokes broken in 1 month and spokes loosing their tension. I am thinking of upgarding all teh spokes. Could someone advise what spokes to go for (make and length) Thanks!Having owned both Kinesis Crosslight V3 and Mavic Aksium One, for rubustness I'd defo go for the Aksium.
I had numerous issues with durability of Kinesis until I had the original spokes replaced. I had a lengthy chat with Derek from Wheelsmith who stated that the Kinesis rims/spokes were not designed for high pressure tyres (as I use disc wheels for my wet weather road bike) hence the durability issues.
Ive not had any issues with Aksium with a good few thousand wet miles in them, but they are 300g heavier than the Kinesis.
I've since had a set of Wheelsmith handbuilts which i'm very happy with (Race24 rims, Sapin CX spokes on Hope Pro2 Evo hubs). They're very light for a disc wheel and freewheel forever.0 -
Hi I am in a similar situation. Very pleased with the Crosslight when running 32 mm tyres but when I swapped to 28 mm running at 80 psi I had plenty of issues with spokes - 3 spokes broken in 1 month and spokes loosing their tension. I am thinking of upgarding all teh spokes. Could someone advise what spokes to go for (make and length) Thanks!
DT Champion or Sapim Race
brass nipples
no idea of length0 -
I'm running these for mainly road based riding with 28mm Durano's . I've put 2.5k miles on them so far this year with zero problems. I paid £180 for mine off the classifieds BNIB. As Tony Tiger would say; they're grrrrreat so far and I'm completely happy with them.0
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Hi, I have a pair and did not realise they were tubeless compatible until I tried tyre fitting then realised I have a new breed of wheel!
Having read all the above I'd be very grateful for your thoughts:
1. why do high pressure clinchers potentially cause spoke problems?
2. I have tried several clincher tyres, slicks and cx, from 25-37mm and they all needed inflated to well over 100psi to snap the beads on. some needed about 120 psi to pop on a particularly stubborn length of bead. I then drop the pressure. Is this normal/ok?
(In some cases I have to go far over the recommended max tyre pressure, otherwise I am left with an unseated bead and a flat spot. I can mount the tyres ok.)
What's the best/simplest way of converting this set to tubeless please? I have previously done ghetto tubeless on a Mavic rim with no spoke holes but the crosslights have rather poorly finished spoke holes. Would a 20inch bmx inner strip work or would I need tape. I have stan's latex and a bunch of valves.
Thanks in advance for your patience.
Alan0