5800 front derailleur
does anyone here have experience setting one of these up?
changing to the big ring is very good wherever I am on the cassette, but I can't eliminate rub in the small ring and largest cog without losing some tension in the cable, and by this point changing to the big ring becomes sloppy
it's not a limit screw issue because you set the low limit first, you then adjust cable tension later to eliminate rub in big-big trim position, by this point it's changing perfectly but it just introduces a bit of rub back to small ring large cog
I'm at a bit of a loss here, I don't mind a bit of rub cross chaining because I will never use those gears anyway, but this is rubbing in a legit gear that I use a fair bit for some 20% hills in the area, so I would quite like to get to the bottom of this, there must be something I'm doing wrong
changing to the big ring is very good wherever I am on the cassette, but I can't eliminate rub in the small ring and largest cog without losing some tension in the cable, and by this point changing to the big ring becomes sloppy
it's not a limit screw issue because you set the low limit first, you then adjust cable tension later to eliminate rub in big-big trim position, by this point it's changing perfectly but it just introduces a bit of rub back to small ring large cog
I'm at a bit of a loss here, I don't mind a bit of rub cross chaining because I will never use those gears anyway, but this is rubbing in a legit gear that I use a fair bit for some 20% hills in the area, so I would quite like to get to the bottom of this, there must be something I'm doing wrong
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Comments
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If it's a band-on, first thing to check is the position of the derailleur itself - is it at the right height, and is it rotated around the seat tube at all?0
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braze on, it's the right height and perfectly parallel0
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In that case, is the converter set correctly for your frame?
See http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php? ... 04-ENG.pdf
It says on page 9: "The distance of the movement of the front derailleur varies according to the end point of the cable guide or the position of the hole in the frame through which the cable is passed. Adjust the distance of the movement by turning ON/OFF the converter.", which sounds like it might be relevant to your situation.0 -
I used the measurement tool and set the converter correctly
the interesting thing is it's a cyclocross frame that uses one of those pulley wheels to convert from top pull to bottom pull, I can loop the cable one way around it or the other, both ways will be the same with the converter but I wonder if looping it the other way may still change the amount of pull they're talking about0 -
success!
I was used to routing the cable round the pulley wheel so it would cross over itself for better leverage, but it would seem with the 5800 that takes it too far away from center to operate properly, routing it the other way makes the angle of entry closer to standard
I didn't think it would make a difference but it did and it's enough to make it work 100% like it should rather than 98%0
