Road Hub recommendations

Fed up with the Zipp 188 hubs on my 404's. Am going to get them rebuilt onto new hubs. Does anyone have any recommendations? They must come in 16H F and 20H rear (which rules a few brands out I think). Am considering DTSwiss 240s or maybe Chris King R45ss. Any other options? I've love something with a steel or Ti Cassette body as Alu ones seem to get chewed through too easily.
Anyone had any experience with Hope Hubs?
Anyone had any experience with Hope Hubs?
- 2023 Vielo V+1
- 2022 Canyon Aeroad CFR
- 2020 Canyon Ultimate CF SLX
- Strava
- On the Strand
- Crown Stables
0
Posts
Expensive and the rear completely failed after about 6000km.
Paging Ugo to the thread?
CAAD12 Disc
Condor Tempo
Look 695 (Geared) - FCN 1
Bowman Palace:R - FCN 1
Cannondale CAAD 9 - FCN 2
Premier (CX) - FCN 6
Premier (fixed/SS) - FCN3
2009 Specialized Tricross Sport
2011 Trek Madone 4.5
2012 Felt F65X
Proud CX Pervert and quiet roadie. 12 mile commuter
I've heard very mixed feedback on the R45s...
They sound fantastic
Sometimes seen bimbling around on a purple Fratello Disc or black and red Aprire Vincenza.
The Hopes offered the best value, the Royce looked and felt amazing and the Chris Kings were disappointing.
I still have the Hopes and if funds weren't an issue then I'd have the Royces again in a flash.
Race - Fuji Norcom Straight
Sun - Cervelo R3
Winter / Commute - Dolan ADX
If you're after lightweight as well, you could look at Tune hubs.
http://www.pmpbike.net/pmp-bike-en/?product=k023-mozzo-posteriore-11v
These jobs are never cheap though, as fancy CX Ray spokes are over 2 quid a pop and the rear hub is 140 or so... you really need to be fed up with the Zipp hub
I seem to be on the unlucky side with Royce, having had to send three back to Sussex to do various jobs to them
Probably easier to send them back to Hampshire where they're made isn't it?!
Road - Wilier Izoard Centaur/Cube Agree C62 Disc
Allround - Cotic Solaris
Yeah, whatever... bordering counties. I have actually never sent the back myself, as I have never supplied them, but the moral is that they are not so bulletproof in my experience. The other annoying thing is that they could have fitted a couple of slots to undo them, either by Allen Key or cone spanner, it wasn't a big job, while the caps are screwed but only by hand. Inevitably over time they get seized and impossible to unscrew by hand. Then you have to clamp them in a vice and grab them with something and inevitably scratch/ruin the delicate alloy caps... not service friendly
Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
Not exactly known to be problem free either... :roll:
that was the 180s not the 170s i've not heard any complaints about those yet
Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
The DT Swiss have a quiet freehub - at least the LWs I had were v quiet.
You know there's a Zipp recall for some of their front hubs right now. Probably a bit older than yours.
What problems have you been having? Interested/anxious to hear details as I now have a couple of dogs in this fight.
Ps: loving the Boras. Just lovely lovely lovely.
Bike 1
Bike 2-A
I see... the problem was the hub being 10 grams too heavy...
Is the DT 20H easy to source? According to DT it does not even exist, while other sources say it does
http://www.dtswiss.com/Components/Hubs-Road/240s-en
Bike 1
Bike 2-A
I would not use Wheelbuilder.com as a reference of what you can and cannot have. They have access to things normal human being & businesses can't: Reynolds and Zipp rims for instance, even customd drilled ones.
740g complete wheelset :shock:
Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
800-900 grams has never been hard to achieve... all you need are a pair of shallow carbon tubs, the lightest hubs and spokes you can buy and you are around that number. You can easily build deeper wheels that are much better to ride at around 1000-1100 grams.
Regardless of who make them, 750 grams wheels are bound to be shxt. Until someone strts messing with materials like aerogel, it's not realistic to achieve those numbers and have something decent with standard composites.
The funny thing is that even with a fully built bike that weighs 1 Kg and handles like a dream, you won't be able to climb the Alpe d'Huez anywhere near the 40 minutes mark. In fact, on paper it is the only realistic chance I have to break the hour mark.
So it's all pointless, really...
Well, if they sell them, you can buy them.
OT question, one I've wondered about. Can you take a 32h hub (eg Campag Record) and use alternative holes to lace it with 16 spokes? Your hub would look a bit like the weightweenies had decided to fashion it from what I think they call Drillium, but aside from that, would it hold together?
Bike 1
Bike 2-A
Generally speaking not a good idea, the flanges are weakened by the extra holes. Not normally a problem when you're building with the correct number of spokes, as the spokes spread the load evenly.
The only problem is Royce hub will last a lifetime and those 16h and 20T rims won't. So is it worth probably not.
This is for the Aeroad so I'm not bothered about weight really.