Re-anodise cranks?
sofaboy73
Posts: 574
My black cranks are looking very scuffed and worn and the metal is showing over most of the arms. Im very much function over form, but if it was an easy fix it would be nice to get them restored. Anyone know if you can get them re-anodised or what ever the suitable process would be?
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Look in yellow pages and find an anodizer, or just take some wet and dry and polish them completely silver!Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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Yes you can have them re-anodised but couple things to bear in mind - the series of aluminium from which they are made and if they are single piece or bonded construction (like cannondale hollowgrams).
I don't fully understand the aluminium series issue but when I had mine done the anodiser was insistent on knowing... I think some series are better/worse at being anodised or can't be done, not sure, but find out which series. If they are bonded cranks there is the possibility that whatever was used to bond the pieces together can be weakened, damaged or even dissolved in the acid bath prior to anodising.
Also if there is any steel element to the cranks that can't be removed it can't be done as it'll ruin the acid/anodising solution.
Try Mansfield anodisers, I've used them before, very helpful and will fine bead blast and or polish the cranks up depending on if you want a Matt or satin finish, they can do most PAL colours.0 -
I had a set of hollowgram si's re-anodised, they are bonded construction but as they were an old set I was willing to run the risk on them... mansfield did a good job on them and I didn't have probs on the bonding side.
Xt's should be fine, just make sure all steel parts are taken of.0 -
The axle is steel innit...0
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Hacksaw....I don't do smileys.
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that scuppers that plan then0
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The person anodising should be able to work out the grade of aluminium used when they are stripped. It's good to know to work out and pre/post treatments needed and anodising times.
Any metal other than aluminum is likely to dissolve, it can also release dangerous chemicals in the acid, titanium is fine but will anodise and change colour. Other metals can be sealed before anodising so they aren't affected but it's probably not worth it on some cranks.
Anodising is completely different to spray painting / powdercoating, there are a thousand different factors that affect the colour so working to RAL colours isn't possible, there is a company that claims to do it but they use a printer to print dye on flat surfaces.
Hollowgram cranks seem to be fine to do but they do suffer from corrosion where the logo is lasered on which is likely to show up.0 -
And you can remove the axle from Hollowgrams.0
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Yes, it is a similar interface to the Middleburn spider from memory.0
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Eh? No it isn't, there's just a crank bolt on each side!
The spider is also removable, but that's not really an issue, as it's aluminium (albeit with steel hardware I presume).0 -
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Ceramic coating is also an option, as is caustic soda and running them de-anno and raw look.s-works stumpy FSR, sl2 tarmac, siglespeed rockhopper and a bog standard allez0
