running Campag ultra torque and power torque together

devonroads

I'm sorry if this has been posted before I'm on my phone so a little difficult to search. Heard various views on this subject. What I'm wanting to find out is if I buy a power torque chainset will this work on with ultra torque shifters? Both 10 speed cheers Jon
P.s am I right the main difference is the bb set up and need of tools. And in the p torque shifting it is only singular?

Ber Nard

Power Torque/Ultra Torque relates only to the crankset and bottom bracket. Ultrashift levers allows for multiple shifts with the thumb lever whereas Powershift has single shifts with the thumb lever.

Either shifter style is compatible with either BB standard.

By all accounts (I've no experience) Power Torque is a PITA to work with but Ultra Torque is a doddle.

devonroads

Cheers ber it was the shifting that that I had read about that was confusing me with the power torque. So ideally keep to ultra torque for ease bit if I can get the tools part torque an option. Thanks that helped.
So the question add to why Campag have ever introduced the power torque? !

keezx

it's cheaper to produce.

devonroads

Cheaper but by the sound of it cr $* to the customer in terms of fitting and need to buy their tools :? Sounds to me like a few Campag lovers area a little disheartened by this move cheers Jon

thegreatdivide

There’s nothing wrong with PT. If you’re into doing all your own bike maintenance including pulling bearings you’ll have a bearing puller in your kit box because you need one to remove UT bearings too – it doesn’t need to be a Park Tool Campagnolo specific one. You can also get a PT crank off with just a puller and a 14mm hex bit (you also need a hex extender to get an UT chainset off). Where the specialist tools are needed is removing the drive side bearing ring (the non-drive side bearing ring comes with the BB cups) this requires an adapter because the arms on a standard puller are too short to fit over the axle of the PT chainset. If you don’t have this any LBS worth its salt will have one.

I’ve been running both UT and PT for several years and have had no issues.

Ben6899

thegreatdivide wrote:

I’ve been running both UT and PT for several years and have had no issues.

Same. I have UT on two of my three main bikes (BB30 with Wheels Manufacturing adapters and a DA chainset on the third) and they're solid, despite what some on-line theories might have you believe.

cq20

I have potentially the poor combination of PT chainset and BB30, however I've covered 3500 miles without trouble so far. IHMO, the PT crank removal is a real pain and reflects a poor design (especially if you have the carbon version and risk the damage using the puller). If it proves to be as bad as I fear when it comes to bearing servicing time, it is going in the bin and will be replaced with an Ultegra (I know, I know) plus Praxis setup.

thegreatdivide

Here's a tip. Undo the fixing bolt half way on the non drive side, take a nylon hammer or a hammer and a block of wood and give the bolt three whacks. Chain set removed. It was a tip my LBS gave me and it works every time. You can spray a bit of GT85 around to get things moving too. Works on carbon and alu chain sets. You'll still need a bearing puller to get the ring off, but as previously mentioned you need one of those for UT as well.

cq20

thegreatdivide wrote:

Here's a tip. Undo the fixing bolt half way on the non drive side, take a nylon hammer or a hammer and a block of wood and give the bolt three whacks.

I assume you remove the drive side holding clip first and then the whacks will push the drive side out of the BB and free the non-drive side crank. I can see how that would work, although I'm not sure how much it would stress the frame in the BB area. I've already got the 14mm hex so we'll see. (BTW, the 14mm hex has already been useful because it allowed me to check if the non-drive side bolt had been torqued properly - it hadn't).