Bike Build

MTBTom94
MTBTom94 Posts: 2
edited February 2015 in MTB buying advice
I'm planning on building a Full Suspension MTB (Mostly Nukeproof & Shimano branding)

I've gone with this so far, would anyone change be able to possibly improve the quality whilst keeping the price below £2500?

Frame Nukeproof Mega AM 275 - RockShox Monarch + 2014 20" Frame 160-180mm Travel
Forks RockShox Pike RCT3 Dual Position Air Forks - 15mm 2015 27.5" Wheels 160mm Travel
Wheels Shimano XT M785 MTB Disc Wheelset QR Front & Rear 27.5"
Tyre Maxxis Ardent MTB Tyre 60a Folding Bead 27.5" 2.25" Width
Seat Post Nukeproof Warhead V2 Layback Seatpost 2014 Dia31.6mm Lgth400mm
Seat Clamp Hope Seat Clamp & QR 31.8mm
Shim USE Thermoplastic Shim 31.8mm
Saddle Nukeproof Plasma Stripe Trail Saddle 2014 White/Black
Rear Gears Shimano XT M771 10sp Cassette + Chain 11-34T Cassette 116 Links Chain
Rear Mech Shimano XT M786 Shadow+ 10 Speed Rear Mech Medium Cage
Front Gears Shimano XT M780 10 Speed Triple Chainset 104mm Bolt Circle 170mm Length 42.32.24Teeth
Front Mech Shimano XT M786 Conventional 2x10 Front Mech Convetional 28.6mm/31.8mm/34.9mm Dia
Shifters Shimano XT M780 10 Speed Trigger Shifter Pair - Bar Mount
Gear Cables Shimano XT Gear Cable Set
Brake Lever Shimano XT M785 Disc Brake Left Hand Lever - I SPEC B
Brake Lever Shimano XT M785 Disc Brake Right Hand Lever - I SPEC B
Disc Brake Shimano RT99 Ice-Tech FREEZA CL Disc Rotor 180mm
Disc Brake Shimano RT99 Ice-Tech FREEZA CL Disc Rotor 180mm
Caliper Shimano Mount Adaptor Front Post to IS 180mm
Caliper Shimano Mount Adaptor Rear Post to IS 180mm
Brake Pads Clarks Shimano XTR-XT-SLX-M985-M785-M666 Pads Pair - Sintered
Brake Pads Clarks Shimano XTR-XT-SLX-M985-M785-M666 Pads Pair - Sintered
Brake Cables Shimano Road-MTB Brake Cable Set
Drivetrain Shimano XT-SLX BB70 Hollowtech II Bottom Bracket 68/73mm
Headset FSA Orbit MX Headset 1.1/8"
Stem Nukeproof Warhead Stem 2014 31.8mm Dia 60mm Length 1.1/8" Steerer Dia
Handlebars Nukeproof Warhead 800 Flat Bars 2014 31.8mm Dia 800mm Width
Grips Nukeproof Element - Knurled Lock On Grip Black
Pedals Nukeproof Electron Flat Pedals 2014 Yellow

This is for a 20" Frame that is suited to 650b Wheels, I think I have every component but if I missed any please add them in for me?

Thanks

Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    List of things to consider
    XT wheels, great quality, but quite heavy for the price, Hope hoops with Arch rims perhaps?
    Hope QR seatpost clamp, very poor reputation, lots of better ones available,31.8 is the wrong size and you don't need the shim, the seat tube is more than 0.1mm thick!
    1x gearing is a better bet for the bike.
    Why buy pads when Shimano supply perfectly good ones?
    Your predeliction with Nukeproof means you aren't necessarily getting the best from each part.

    Without being rude, it looks like you may not actually know much about bikes and are buying on labels?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • You're also buying a triple crankset with a double front mech
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    And the crankset will come with a BB so no need to buy that either!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • You'll also not need this.

    Brake Cables Shimano Road-MTB Brake Cable Set as you've got hydros and they come with hoses so do not require cables to state the obvious.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    I also think little things, like the headset (doubt it's 1 and 1/8th), front mech - direct mount I think.
    And doubt the fork will be QR, AFAIK the rear is 12mm as well, not QR.
    I don't do smileys.

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  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    Having had a fair amount of Nukeproof kit I would say it's great value but not great quality. The Mega frame rides brilliantly but has very poor quality paint. The bars don't have a very hard wearing finish so if you move levers etc they mark pretty badly and the stem & seat post bolts rust quickly. It's a bit of a shame because the first generation Mega & Scalp frames were beautifully made.
    Also worth considering the Mega TR frame, it's lighter but still a hard hitting frame. I have done enduro races on mine, it's been over 30 foot gap jumps, off 6 foot drops, smashed through rock gardens and generally abused & it takes it well but is also light and efficient enough for all day xc rides as well. Personally I have never found myself wanting the AM model over my TR.
    I wouldn't run a front mech on the Mega frame. I did and the cable routing is crap, you will get a lot of cable rub on the frame and routing it around the shock mount is very untidy & not ideal. Also, you would need a direct mount front mech, you can't use the clamp type mech. I would ditch the front mech and go for a 1x10 gear set up using a 40t cassette expander.
    The rear axle is 142x12 as standard, you can get a 135x12 drop out kit but it's not cheap.
    The XT wheels are very good but heavy for the price, I would go for Hope hoops instead.
    A dropper post would be a good addition to any enduro bike.
    The headset you got there is wrong. You need 44mm integrated top cup with 1 1/8" bearing and an external 44mm bottom cup with a 1 1/2" bearing.
    The Pike forks are excellent but it's worth considering the Marzocchi 350NCR, best fork I have ever used. The 350CR is also very good and Merlin have them very cheap at the moment.
    You don't need the shim for the seat post. The clamp needs to be 34.9mm, not the same size as the post.
    I would also spend a few pounds extra to get an XTR bottom bracket, much smoother and mine has been going 18 months now.
    If you buy the Mega frame make sure you get a spare drive side drop out, they can be hard to get hold of at short notice. And cover it in heli tape or it will look very old very quickly.
  • I only had a quick look, but i would perhaps consider a more agressive tyre for the front, and run the Ardent on the back only.