Fulcrum Racing 5 rear hub (2012)

CRAIGO5000

I've got a brand new set of the 2012 model. The rear freehub was silent, so silent that it worried me so using Fulcrums online instructions for hub servicing, I set about removing the freehub only to check the pawls, spring and grease level - no bearings were disturbed or removed. Fulcrum instructions online seem to transition between different designs and I can't find my 'exact' wheelset.

Since that, I've put back the wheels as per a mix of all the different instructions and i seem to have a tiny amount of play if I wobble the rear wheel when on the bike.

I have some sort of black adjuster on the non-drive side which I can screw in and out and then lock off the tension with a small allen nut?
Can this minute amount of play be taken out using this method with the wheels mounted?

I have a set of Mavic Ksyerium SL and they have a special plastic Mavic bearing adjustment spanner to do a very similar job, just in a different way.

I don't want to cock up the bearings on a brand new wheelset if I'm going about this in the wrong way.

Thanks

cycleclinic

yes use the bearing preload adjuster you have identified. Why did you take apart good wheels. If the freehub mechanism operates it does not need attention.

CRAIGO5000

Thank you. I'll unlock and adjust, then lock it up.

I took the freehub off as nearly all reviews stated 5's were a really noisy freehub - mine was almost completely silent! I was concerned since it has been sat on a shelf for 3 years and wondered if something needed attention.

Cheers

cycleclinic

How can it need attention if all it did was sit on a shelf. Unless the part does not work as it meant to leave stuff alone!

CRAIGO5000

Well the wheels are claimed to be extremely noisy. That noise it usually from the pawl engagement and/or pawl spring strength.

When mine were near silent, I was worried the grease could have hardened, or a few pawls were locked shut, perhaps only a single pawl was engaging or the spring wasn't seated properly.

The are ex-display, so anything could have happened over a 3 year period imo.

Thanks for your concern.

rolf_f

CRAIGO5000 wrote:

The are ex-display, so anything could have happened over a 3 year period imo.

Indeed - meteorite impact for a start - but even that usually doesn't warrant tampering with the freehub! You've got to watch these sinister ex display items - they can get up to all sorts of mischief when you are not looking.

If they work then use them - if not, tamper with them. As far as noise goes, some Campag made wheels are noisy and some are not. You can convert one to the other by adding some grease or removing it. As far as I can see, that is the only difference. I converted a Khamsin rear to silent mode simply by adding the thinnest film of grease to the ratchet during a service.

andy_wrx

Someone obviously out of wrong side of bed this morning Craig

mamba80

Are you sure they are 2012? those f5s just had a 17mm locknut nds and a 5mm allen key on ds, so no real preload adjuster.

the 2014 F5s had the screw in "preload" adjuster (with a 2mm allen key lock bolt) but as they are cartridge bearings, too much preload knackers them.

the 2014 had a far quieter f/h than the earlier ones.

CRAIGO5000

I bought them from Ribble for £80 and I now do think they are the 2014 model. They're 20/24 bladed spoke with red nipples and the 2.5mm allen bearing pre-load adjuster. Maybe Ribble made a mistake in their listing?

I have noticed that too much preload does grip the wheels rotation so I've backed off the load. Now there is a tiny amount of give when trying to flex the wheel at the rim by hand. This doesn't hinder rotation.
I have never fettled with the front wheel and I checked that for "play" and it also has that same tiny amount of give so I'm guessing that's how they are meant to be.

Like you say, too much preload with wear the bearings prematurely whilst also adding resistance to their rotation.

mamba80

CRAIGO5000 wrote:

I bought them from Ribble for £80 and I now do think they are the 2014 model. They're 20/24 bladed spoke with red nipples and the 2.5mm allen bearing pre-load adjuster. Maybe Ribble made a mistake in their listing?

I have noticed that too much preload does grip the wheels rotation so I've backed off the load. Now there is a tiny amount of give when trying to flex the wheel at the rim by hand. This doesn't hinder rotation.
I have never fettled with the front wheel and I checked that for "play" and it also has that same tiny amount of give so I'm guessing that's how they are meant to be.

Like you say, too much preload with wear the bearings prematurely whilst also adding resistance to their rotation.

Bargain def 2014 model

Ben6899

Craigo. They'll get noisy/noisier with use.

keezx

The noise produced by Fulcrum/Campagnolo wheels can be determined by the user by applying the amount and type of lubricating,
Lots of grease= silent.
Few drops light oil= noisy

shmooster

Doh, should have read this before posting a new thread as I appear to have the exact same wheel, how did you get the freehub off?

Thread I just started is here....

viewtopic.php?f=40004&t=13015614

CRAIGO5000

Yup. The freehub is now getting noisy after only 150 miles.

Freehub removal was easy.

Using two 17mm spanners and *I think* a 5mm hex key to hold the inner of the axle as the open spanner is used to undo the nut. Then simply pull off the freehub. There is no worry of pawls shooting off in all directions as the Fulcrums are held in place with a cir-clip.

I wiped off alot of the excess grease inside the freehub, around the pawls and then also removed the cir-clip and cleaned the grease from under the pawls. The pawl action was much more snappy once the cir-clip was put back in place. This is probably why my freehub is getting louder.

HTH

shmooster

Thanks Craigo, that's what I thought but I put an unholy amount of torque on it and it wouldn't shift. I'll try a combo of warming it up and giving it some more welly. My freehub inner bearing is shot and needs to be changed, had the same on a pair of Fulcrum 6s (spesh bikes only) a year or so ago and managed the switch OK there. Still have a pile of bearings left from then that should fit.

mamba80

shmooster wrote:

Thanks Craigo, that's what I thought but I put an unholy amount of torque on it and it wouldn't shift. I'll try a combo of warming it up and giving it some more welly. My freehub inner bearing is shot and needs to be changed, had the same on a pair of Fulcrum 6s (spesh bikes only) a year or so ago and managed the switch OK there. Still have a pile of bearings left from then that should fit.

dude, the DS 17mm nut is a left hand thread, and shouldn't be done up too tight, though that might not be the case with yours now!
so, use 5mm allen key on DS, 17mm spanner and undo lock nut(left hand thread), there is a small spacer under nut, then use 5mm AK on DS and 17mm spanner on NDS, this is normal right hand thread, then undo bolt, remove threaded locking collar and metal seal.
Pull f/h and axle out of hub (they should come out as one) then use soft hammer and tap axle back through f/h, from outer side of f/h toward hub, this should nt need much effort.
the hub uses a different bearing from previous wheels, and same as ones and zeros I think its a 6803 1rs as std but I use a 2rs and repack it before fitting, there is a spacer between the 2 bearings.

I have found that the freehub pawls have got quieter with use, regardless of lube used and a new spring.

keezx

mamba80 wrote:

I have found that the freehub pawls have got quieter with use, regardless of lube used and a new spring.

Put some grease in it and it's quiet again.

shmooster

mamba80 wrote:

dude, the DS 17mm nut is a left hand thread,

Hangs head in shame :-)

Thanks Mamba, that might just explain it.