Shimano SLX brakes rear not working

BIGBOSS78659
BIGBOSS78659 Posts: 61
edited February 2015 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi,
The rear brake doesn't work at all. I have cutted the hose and installed it back in with the nail and olive. I have made sure it has gone in properly and make sure the screw is tight. I don't know what to do now. Could anyone help?

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    How do you mean it is not working?

    Explain.

    You have bled the system.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Right the brake lever goes fully down. I can see the pads moving but not too much. The front one is working fine. I also did the same thing to the front. I didn't even bled the brakes. I don't know why the rear doesn't work as the from one works absolutely fine.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Because you weren't as lucky. Bleed them and see.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    As above bled it.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • I have ordered a bleed kit from epic bleed solutions. Any ideas if they are easy to bleed. Also my front and rear brake pads rub on the rotor. Is there anything else I could try to make them work?
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Easy.

    Then ride it and pads etc will bed in and settle.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • Thanks, will update you once done. They are coming tomorrow. My front and rear pads rub on the rotor. Is there anything i can do. I loosed the caliper hold the brakes then tight the bolts again but still it was rubbing. Tried this on the rear. Then again it might not have done it as the brakes arn't that strong as they need bleeding. What do you think?
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    A little light rubbing is normal.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • I can hear noises when the wheel is moving. I think the pads have not adjusted to the rotor yet. What can i do?
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    I can hear noises when the wheel is moving. I think the pads have not adjusted to the rotor yet. What can i do?

    Ride it.
    The Rookie wrote:
    A little light rubbing is normal.
    cooldad wrote:
    Easy.

    Then ride it and pads etc will bed in and settle.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • So riding the bike will sort out the problem?
  • kinioo
    kinioo Posts: 776
    I would:

    - bleed the system;
    for rubbing:
    a) loosen the caliper bolts,
    b) squeeze the brake lever and hold it,
    c) tighten the caliper bolts,
    d) release the lever -

    this should help center the caliper/pads on rotor;

    also as others said...just ride it !!
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    But don't bleed the front if it works. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • benpinnick
    benpinnick Posts: 4,148
    edited February 2015
    Doing a full bleed will probably be massive overkill for the issue you have, and possibly lead to more problems. For most issues like yours a ghetto bleed is usually enough as its hard to get air in the caliper from a shorten. Its very simple, and you can use the syringe in your epic kit as a dropper for the oil...

    1. Set the brake you want to fix level to the ground.
    2. Remove the bleed cap screw (dont lose the o-ring)
    3. pump the lever a few times, dont worry it wont squirt oil out of the hole!
    4. add more oil to the bleed port until its level with the top. Just drip it in, no need to bugger about screwing in syringes, in fact screwing the syringe in will reduce the effectiveness of the bleed.
    5. pump the lever again half a dozen more times. You will likely see bubbles coming out and the level of oil will drop.
    6. Repeat 4 & 5 again as many times as needed until oil stops bubbling and level remains constant at the top.
    7. Screw cap back on and clean up any drips.
    8. Go ride.

    If when you're done the fixed one feels more solid than the other, then do the other one next....
    A Flock of Birds
    + some other bikes.
  • benpinnick
    benpinnick Posts: 4,148
    PS - the chances are you pulled the brakes (or someone did) while the wheels were out which is why they rub. You should have enough clearance for no rub. Take the wheels out and pry the pads apart with a large head flat screwdriver or similar.
    A Flock of Birds
    + some other bikes.
  • Update: Rear brake working fine now after I bleeder it. The brake pads rub on the bike. I have tried everything like loosing the caliper etc. I haven't rode the bike yet but will test it later to see if the pads move. However, I don't think it will make any difference. Is there anything else I can do to make it stop rubbing on the rotor.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    benpinnick wrote:
    PS - the chances are you pulled the brakes (or someone did) while the wheels were out which is why they rub. You should have enough clearance for no rub. Take the wheels out and pry the pads apart with a large head flat screwdriver or similar.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • neiltb
    neiltb Posts: 332
    If you don't like the advice you're getting and think it won't make any difference, why ask?

    If the wheel rotates pretty freely and you get a bit of a rub, take out, get up to speed and brake, bed the pads in, if not try prying the pads apart as described above. If prying the pads apart doesn't seem to be doing anything, open the bleed port a little bit and pry again, there could be too much fluid in the system.

    If that doesn't work, realise you might have mechanical limitations and help out you lbs.
    FCN 12
  • Hi,
    Quick Update:
    The pads rubbing is not really an issue now. The issue is that the front brake has lost power dramticallly. You do have to press the lever hard then it would brake. If you were riding the bike fast and then used the front brake to brake. You won't feel like it is braking. I have bled it twice and still no improvement. I don't think it's the pads as the whole brake unit is brand new. I don't have any mineral oil left as i have used it all. I would need to order some more if you suggest to bleed it again or should i take the bike to halfords and have them to look at it and ask them to repair it. Any ideas how much it will cost. On the other hand, rear brake is excellent. Such a big improvement over mechanical brakes. Brake responsive is excellent. However i just noticed that the bike makes some kind of noise like i think the caliper adapter bolts may slightly touching the rotor. Overall, rear brakes are excellent and hoping they stay that way. I really want to fix the front brake as that will be the primary brake that i will be using. Any tips or tricks then please let me know. Thanks Hassan
  • Antm81
    Antm81 Posts: 1,406
    Is the lever firm or can you pull it to the bars?
  • Do you mean when you pull the lever does it to the handle. Yes it does you can see the pads do move and do brake little bit. Whereas the rear brake lever it is firm and you know that the brakes works. But the front brake is not really useful when riding the brake as it won't stop the bike.
  • Antm81
    Antm81 Posts: 1,406
    Have you altered the reach adjust towards the bars? Moving the lever too close can have this effect sometimes.

    Did you do anything to the brake before it 'dramatically' lost power? They don't tend to just stop working.
  • I have adjusted the reach lever. However that doesn't make any difference at all. I haven't done anything to the front brake before but i may have put the bike upside down which is why it's probably stop working. Even if i bleed the brakes it still doesn't have that full power like the rear brake. I have tried to burp the brakes. But still no luck. While i was burping there were no bubbles appearing. It was just the mineral oil just spitting out while pressing lever. What should i do now?
  • Antm81 wrote:
    Have you altered the reach adjust towards the bars? Moving the lever too close can have this effect sometimes.
    Did you do anything to the brake before it 'dramatically' lost power? They don't tend to just stop working.
    I have adjusted the reach lever. However that doesn't make any difference at all. I haven't done anything to the front brake before but i may have put the bike upside down which is why it's probably stop working. Even if i bleed the brakes it still doesn't have that full power like the rear brake. I have tried to burp the brakes. But still no luck. While i was burping there were no bubbles appearing. It was just the mineral oil just spitting out while pressing lever. What should i do now?
  • Antm81
    Antm81 Posts: 1,406
    When you say adjusted the reach, which way? Towards the bars or away?
  • Antm81 wrote:
    When you say adjusted the reach, which way? Towards the bars or away?
    Away the brakes. Even if i did make it close to the brakes they were still rubbish and the lever is not firm like the rear.