Can I keep my chain clean in winter...
Comments
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Best thing to do is accept that chains are effectively consumable items (and relatively inexpensive ones at that) - and will need replacing periodically, regardless of how you lubricate them.
That said, it is obviously better to have a clean drive train that a dirty one.0 -
Imposter wrote:Best thing to do is accept that chains are effectively consumable items (and relatively inexpensive ones at that) - and will need replacing periodically, regardless of how you lubricate them.
That said, it is obviously better to have a clean drive train that a dirty one.
I like light lube re-applied every few rides or after each wet one. I've used heavy lubes and been satisfied with them too. The balance of maintenance and dirt accumulation is really the only real difference to me.
Smooth, low friction running - good lubrication provides a smooth & quiet transmission, clean gear shifts
Smooth, low friction running - reduced wear on components
Robust oil or wax film - reduces/eliminates corrosion
Collection of foreign material - dust/muck/debris stick to the lube. Thick and sticky lube = both stay on the chain, Light lube = both are shed from the chain.0 -
Paraffin.0
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+1
This winter I've started using paraffin (candle wax, cost 5 /kg).
Recipe:
Once a week (typical 3 to 5 wet rides) the chain off the bike and boil it 10 min in water+soap (old cooking pan)
1 Liter vegetable can with paraffin au bain marie in the same pan, submerge chain 2 minutes.
Fish chain out and put immediately back on bike (cogs and chainrings already cleaned).
Chain runs up to 300 kms with remarkable little noise (which proves lubrication)
Cogs and chainrings pick up very little dirt.
You can grab the chain and get no dirty hands.
No rust even after 5 wet rides.
No maintenance (on the drivetrain) after the ride.
Tempted to do this in the summer too....0 -
Keezx wrote:+1
This winter I've started using paraffin (candle wax, cost 5 /kg).
Recipe:
Once a week (typical 3 to 5 wet rides) the chain off the bike and boil it 10 min in water+soap (old cooking pan)
1 Liter vegetable can with paraffin au bain marie in the same pan, submerge chain 2 minutes.
Fish chain out and put immediately back on bike (cogs and chainrings already cleaned).
Chain runs up to 300 kms with remarkable little noise (which proves lubrication)
Cogs and chainrings pick up very little dirt.
You can grab the chain and get no dirty hands.
No rust even after 5 wet rides.
No maintenance (on the drivetrain) after the ride.
Tempted to do this in the summer too....
After boiling the chain in soapy water you put a tin can full of paraffin in the boiling soapy water as a bain marie and then submerge the chain in the paraffin - is that correct?
I presume you rinse the chain between the soapy water and paraffin stages?
Where does the candle wax come in?0 -
Yes, you understood correct, tin can half filled with paraffin is sufficient.
No I don't rince the chain in between, maybe I should, though there can't be much left in the chain after boiling.
The candle wax can is put in the boiling pan after boiling the chain.
Good point for improvement.....but needs another container with hot water.0 -
Just wipe chain with a cloth using some gt85 as solvent.
Ride.0 -
No sir,doesn't do anything useful.
You can leave that as well.0 -
Wiping the dirt off the outside is mainentance for your eye and does nothing useful for your chain.
So you create the illusion of a well maintained chain, but de facto it isn't.
You may go on this way 50 years, but the facts do not change.0 -
Ai_1 wrote:
Like I said, just as a solvent, wipe vigorously with a rag until it's dry, then lube as normal.0 -
Ai_1 wrote:
In my original post here is what I said "I experimented at one time taking my chain off to clean it. Waste of time. Now I just wipe the chain with some GT85 used as a solvent, then re-lube"0 -
Amazing the debate that oiling a chain can produce.
While we're at it, who doesn't wear a helmet?- - - - - - - - - -
On Strava.{/url}0 -
Yeah and what about Hi Viz and RLJ's?0
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dodgy wrote:Ai_1 wrote:
In my original post here is what I said "I experimented at one time taking my chain off to clean it. Waste of time. Now I just wipe the chain with some GT85 used as a solvent, then re-lube"0 -
This Winter I've lubed this once and all that did was attract much more dirt
I'll chuck it away in May, no time for that cleaning lark.
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After two previous years of trial and error, I've settled on preferred technique.
Post ride wash - Fenwicks diluted cleaner, hose pipe, GT85 over the chain, a wipe down with a rag and then a re-oil.
Weekly - remove chain, place in bowl with undiluted Fenwicks FS1, scrub with a brush, dry and reattach. Using a split link is so effective.
Oiling - one drop onto each link of Finish Line Cross Country keeps the links lubed but doesn't attract too much dirt.
Fundamentally accept the chain will get dirty; just settle on a cleaning technique to suit you.Felt z95 - loving my first road bike0 -
feemackenzie wrote:After two previous years of trial and error, I've settled on preferred technique.
Post ride wash - Fenwicks diluted cleaner, hose pipe, GT85 over the chain, a wipe down with a rag and then a re-oil.
Weekly - remove chain, place in bowl with undiluted Fenwicks FS1, scrub with a brush, dry and reattach. Using a split link is so effective.
Oiling - one drop onto each link of Finish Line Cross Country keeps the links lubed but doesn't attract too much dirt.
Fundamentally accept the chain will get dirty; just settle on a cleaning technique to suit you.0 -
I can usually find time for a hose down at least, but then more often than not my rides are once a week. If it was once a day I would take a different approach.0
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Ali_1 - after snapping a chain from poor maintenence I'l take my chance with a brew of tea and a quick chain clean. Saves me money in the long run.Felt z95 - loving my first road bike0
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feemackenzie wrote:Ali_1 - after snapping a chain from poor maintenence I'l take my chance with a brew of tea and a quick chain clean. Saves me money in the long run.
How do you know what caused your chain to snap? Just curious.
Excessive debris and grit on the chain might accelerate wear slightly but I doubt it would cause a chain to snap before it had caused sufficient wear to the pins that the link length necessitated replacement anyway.
In terms of cost, I'm satisfied to spend a couple of quid more to save me having to spend hours cleaning the chain (accumulated over the life of the chain). My time is worth more than that. I'm not saying I don't maintain my bike, I'm just somewhat pragmatic about it. You're welcome to see it differently.0 -
I spent about an hour degreasing my chain with diesel, first doing it on the bike with a chain cleaning thingy, then taking it off and dunking/dipping it in a jar of diesel... only did a 20 minute ride the other night and the chain was back to black again.
Honestly if they sold full chain guards for road frames (no, not a chainring guard, a full chain cover) I would buy one in a second. Maybe you could hack one off an old shopper bike or something I dunno.
The only other thing I can think is try using one of those fancy oils like Tri-Flow and it might be better at not attracting crap as standard chain oil but who knows. We live under a f**king cloud in this country and our bikes have to be different / maintained 4 times more, because of it. :roll:
I have not tried the old frying pan thing yet with a chain but I can see it happening, especially if I find that "magic" stuff they put in chains at manufacture, its some sort of wax or something.0 -
Manc33 wrote:I spent about an hour degreasing my chain with diesel, first doing it on the bike with a chain cleaning thingy, then taking it off and dunking/dipping it in a jar of diesel... only did a 20 minute ride the other night and the chain was back to black again.
Honestly if they sold full chain guards for road frames (no, not a chainring guard, a full chain cover) I would buy one in a second. Maybe you could hack one off an old shopper bike or something I dunno.
The only other thing I can think is try using one of those fancy oils like Tri-Flow and it might be better at not attracting crap as standard chain oil but who knows. We live under a f**king cloud in this country and our bikes have to be different / maintained 4 times more, because of it. :roll:
I have not tried the old frying pan thing yet with a chain but I can see it happening, especially if I find that "magic" stuff they put in chains at manufacture, its some sort of wax or something.
I just use a light teflon lube, give the chain a wipe occasionally and add a couple of drops of lube as needed. I'll give it an occasional full clean but that's it.0