Respray/Rebuld basically loads of questions from me!! HELP!!

Rossyjr
Rossyjr Posts: 43
edited February 2015 in Workshop
Hi all, a bit of background, I bought my bike second hand about 18 months ago to begin to commute to work on in the summer whilst I wasn't playing football to keep my fitness up slightly, as it turned out I have ridden to work at least one or two days a week since then anyway (36 mile round trip)

However due to not having the funds available to go and splash out on a new shiny carbon bike I have decided that as I like the way my bike is I will strip it right down and get the frame and forks resprayed and learn how to build the bike back up i.e indexing gears, running new cables in etc things that I havnt done before.

so what I am asking for I any pointers or tips you have when stripping down and rebuilding a bike? any potential stumbling blocks I may come across?

I want to have the bike painted in black probably gloss rather than matt I don't think the frame style would suit matt just my opinion, not being able to afford a new groupset I will just be cleaning the one I have whilst it is off the bike and keeping the black and silver theme although I wanted to have a splash of colour on it I asked my 3 year old daughter what colour brake cable outers I should get and she suggested pink!! :oops: :shock:

here is the bike I have no idea of the age at all the top tube is a sort or triangular cross section if that would help anyone roughly put a year on it.

Comments

  • Rossyjr
    Rossyjr Posts: 43
    just looking at that picture if anyone can tell me whats going on with my bars/stem and how I can sort it !! how I haven't noticed that before I don't know!
  • gethinceri
    gethinceri Posts: 1,661
    Well, you can remove and flip the stem, but this will alter the fit somewhat.
    Gloss black frame and bright pink cables would look great, your daughter's on the money!
  • Rossyjr
    Rossyjr Posts: 43
    I think I need a stem with a lower degree of loft If that's the right terminology! ive just ordered the pink cable outers so we shall see what they are like!

    the bike is now in bits, but one cable carrier screw insert has sheared god knows how that's going to come out!
  • Rossyjr
    Rossyjr Posts: 43
    anyone help me with my headset bearings? the one that was in the top was a stronglight 1 1/8 45 degree needle cartridge bearing the lower one didn't have anything on it, they were both knackered what can I replace these with?

    thanks
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    Groupset is Campagnolo with Mk2 Ergos, polished levers suggest Veloce or Centaur - I would guess about circa 2005-2010. Ribble have been churning out cheap, Taiwanese-built alloy frames for a few years - there should be a sticker saying "Deda 7005" or similar? I would suggest powder-coat rather than paint, it's cheaper and more durable, particularly given that the frame is only worth a 100 quid and spending 200 on a nice paintjob is kinda pointless. Good thing is that the Campagnolo groupset is pretty durable, so a clean and lube should see you sorted. Headset looks like integrated - simply take the bearing into your LBS to determine size/replacement.
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • Rossyjr
    Rossyjr Posts: 43
    brilliant thanks for that, there is a plate that says deda 7005 on the bike,

    its campag centaur groupset just going to replace the chain as I think its seen better days now,

    will take the bearing in this week cheers.
  • If your replacing the chain, you will need to change the cassette (the cogs on the rear wheel) as they will wear with the old chain.
    As a chain wears, it stretches and wears the teeth away on the cogs. As a new chain won't have the same stretch, it won't sit on the cog the same way, so has the potential to slip. New cassette's (i.e. under 2-300miles you can get away with just swapping the chain, as yours is older, a new cassette will be needed.
    Also, as it's campag, make sure you get a campag cassette. Campag has different spacing between the cogs and a different fitment on the hub. Your local bike shop shoup change the cassette for free/not much if you take the wheel in...
    jedster wrote:
    Just off to contemplate my own mortality and inevitable descent into decrepedness.
    FCN 3 or 4 on road depending on clothing
    FCN 8 off road because I'm too old to go racing around.
  • Rossyjr
    Rossyjr Posts: 43
    ok thanks for that, ill have a look for a new cassette and chain at the same time, I suppose I can do that whenever once ive got the bike built back up.
  • styxd
    styxd Posts: 3,234
    Don't bother with a repsray, spend your money on some new components instead. A set of compact bars would be a good start by the looks of it. And new cables and bar tape.
  • Rossyjr
    Rossyjr Posts: 43
    the whole point of me taking it to bits was to get it resprayed so that's atill happening,


    already got new bar tape and brake and gear cables inner and outers, what are compact barrs?
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Compact bars have a shorter reach and more importantly less of a drop from the tops to the drop part of the bar. Can make riding in the drops a lot more comfortable.

    The drop on yours looks huge, not helped by the upwards pointing stem which makes it all look a bit odd.
  • I did basically the same thing about 2 years ago on a 2011 Spesh Allez. Completely stripped the bike down to just frame and forks, got it powder coated black (a MUCH better option, if you can manage it, than painting / spraying IMHO), got the carbon fork sprayed by a carbon specialist, then built it back up using a mix of 2nd hand (ebay) and new Ultegra parts. First time I took it into the office after I'd finished building it, it was nicked. To say that I could have cried was an understatement!!! Still, it was fun to strip and build it (and the insurance covered a new Dolan Ares) so it all ended well.

    If it's an ally frame then think about powder coating. It's a much more resilient coating than painting, and as it's a block colour it doesn't need to be anything fancy.

    Just my half cents...
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    If your replacing the chain, you will need to change the cassette (the cogs on the rear wheel) as they will wear with the old chain.
    As a chain wears, it stretches and wears the teeth away on the cogs. As a new chain won't have the same stretch, it won't sit on the cog the same way, so has the potential to slip. New cassette's (i.e. under 2-300miles you can get away with just swapping the chain, as yours is older, a new cassette will be needed.
    Also, as it's campag, make sure you get a campag cassette. Campag has different spacing between the cogs and a different fitment on the hub. Your local bike shop shoup change the cassette for free/not much if you take the wheel in...

    This isn't necessarily true. You can put a new chain on a cassette that has done far more than 2-300 miles. Infact, mileage in itself isn't really much of an indicator of likely component wear - more relevant is mileage in crap weather. That's where the wear is.

    So, get the new chain and see how it goes. The cassette might be fine or it might not be. But no need to assume it won't be. They do last longer if you buy eg three chains and rotate them onto the bike on a regularish basis.

    Of course, if you are building up again from scratch it is nice to get the drive train as new as possible but that's not a reason to assume the old cassette is scrap without trying. It can always serve as a backup if it is ok.
    Faster than a tent.......
  • Progress so far,

    frame powder coated, forks sprayed at a local motor bodies (fast line powder coating and THG motor bodies respectively) would recommend both if your around Preston area

    groupset cleaned up brakes,BB cassette and both derailleurs back on, Khamsin stickers removed from wheels
    both hubs serviced new bearings etc

    TO DO - fit levers and new inner and outer gear and brake cables index gears and set up brakes fit bar tape/lights/computer, fit chain

    cant think of anything else at the minute
  • Looking good!

    I see you've flipped the stem back to a more normal position, it'll make the bars feel lower when you get back on the road but you'll get used to it quickly enough.

    I did this many years ago with an old steel framed Raleigh, didn't add any value at all to the bike but the knowledge you get from building a bike up from scratch is priceless.
  • Good work Rossyjr! :D

    Looking way better already, and I'm really looking forward to seeing the "pink cables" :mrgreen: I seriously think it's going to look quite good! Please post some picture if/when it's on, by the way if you can try take images of your bike outside. Bikes always look a lot better with natural light (unless professional lit in a studio of course)

    Cheers
  • gethinceri
    gethinceri Posts: 1,661
    What was the cost of strip & powder, will be doing the same in April?
  • thanks for the comments, I cant tell you how pleased I am with it so far, learnt a lot and like you say it doesn't add value but the bike means more to me now than it ever did,

    I will try to take some pictures outside tomorrow, don't get much chance to work on it in the day 3 kids keep me busy!! just a few nights in the garage to build it up!

    Gethinceri - the bike was dipped and powdercoated by a company called Fastline powdercoating in Preston for £35 they turned it round in a few days and im very happy with the result.

    more pics to follow
  • Finished pretty much, just got to put computer and lights back on.
  • gethinceri
    gethinceri Posts: 1,661
    Pink was a great choice tell your daughter she's tops for bike design.