fox float fluid?

alexkerrblack
alexkerrblack Posts: 34
edited February 2015 in MTB workshop & tech
hi all
i'm wanting to service my fox rl 100 forks. i have the rings and etc nd the green 10wt fluid. do i need to have the float fluid for anything? i've looked at some tutorials and can't see them using it but i want to get it right.
do my forks require float fluid?
cheers

Comments

  • JodyP
    JodyP Posts: 193
    Yes, the little 5ml of blue fluid goes in the side that is pumped up. See this link about 3/4 of the way down.

    http://service.foxracingshox.com/consum ... OAT_RL.htm

    DSCN1874.jpg
  • thanks. don't know why i couldn't find it myself....
  • peter413
    peter413 Posts: 5,120
    If you're only doing a basic lowers service you won't need the Float Fluid.
  • 3wheeler
    3wheeler Posts: 110
    Should you leave the damper and airspring in the crown steerer assembly for a basic service? I've seen some videos that do and some like the one linked where they are removed, and other more detailed guides on servicing the damper itself.

    I found the guidance a bit confusing because the seal kit from fox doesn't include the air seal (sometimes called U-cup seal).
  • peter413
    peter413 Posts: 5,120
    To do a basic lowers service there is no need to remove the damper or air spring. If you're replacing the Float Fluid in the air spring I'd remove the air cap but there's really no need to do this.
  • Always open the air chamber on a fox float. Generally 9 times out of 10 the lower lube will always have migrated into the air chamber.
  • stubs
    stubs Posts: 5,001
    Might as well replace the Float fluid whilst your doing a service. takes about 5 mins tops to do.
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  • jimothy78
    jimothy78 Posts: 1,407
    Does anyone know what float fluid actually IS? I've always assumed it was just overpriced but otherwise typical suspension fluid/oil, in which case I'd be interested to know what "weight" it is...
  • stubs
    stubs Posts: 5,001
    iirc correctly its rebranded Hypoid 80 gearbox oil with some added magic Pixie dust.
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  • benpinnick
    benpinnick Posts: 4,148
    Yeah it's 80wt fully synthetic gear oil. Take your pick!
    A Flock of Birds
    + some other bikes.
  • jimothy78
    jimothy78 Posts: 1,407
    Cool, thanks guys.

    So should have used something a bit heavier than the 15wt stendec I had lying around when I did an air can service for my Float shock, then? :oops:
  • stubs
    stubs Posts: 5,001
    Dirtydog11 wrote:
    Pixie dust.

    Molybdenum Disulfide

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide

    Adding more Moly sulfide to a gear oil already containing lots of it. No wonder its so expensive.
    Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap
  • benpinnick
    benpinnick Posts: 4,148
    So should have used something a bit heavier than the 15wt stendec I had lying around when I did an air can service for my Float shock, then? :oops:

    Yes and no. The real benefit is not so much the weight of the oil assuming you're happy to store the bike vertically/upside down often enough, its more the fact that fork oil like stendec is not a lubricant, so it wont offer much improved performance... the yes part being though that Ive done this on many shocks/forks when Ive not had gear oil available and to be honest... I could never tell! :shock:
    A Flock of Birds
    + some other bikes.