Stem,axle and 'computer' suggestions please :)

Caveman_Chris
Caveman_Chris Posts: 135
edited January 2015 in MTB buying advice
Hi everyone I've tried searching and there's either not much or too much info on various items that I'm wanting to purchase.

Stem; my medium frame whyte t129s comes with a 70mm stem and I feel it is too long and that I would feel more comfortable climbing seated, aswell as being able to move my weight around more effectively on the trail. Sound about right? Would 45mm be too much of a dramatic change? There's one on CRC for £22 which I might take a punt on.

Axle; I'm currently running RS MAXLEs of which the rear has a tendency to loosen (not recently touch wood) and the front cut out catch whatsit thingy has sheared off to the point where I have to use water pumps to release it. I'm not fussed at all about tool free options (not pliers though) but the RS maxle lite DH only comeS in 20mm, I'm 12mm and 15mm.

Computer; I've recently acquired the bro-in-laws turbo trainer, and as soon as I clear the tumbler from the spare room it's getting set up. However, I don't think I would gel with it very well without a computer (to monitor HR RPM Cadence power?) to track progress. But there seems to be lots of (outdated with dead links) info and it's just looks like static TBH.

Thanks everyone CC
'14 Whyte T129s-*DEAD*
OnOne Codeine 29er

Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Superstar or on-one for cheap with good quality forged and CNCed stems. No idea on axles I'm afraid.

    How much effort does it take to remove a whiskey glass?

    You should be able to judge your own effort, you don't need HRM and all that stuff, however if you feel you must, the. Why not get one that will Bluetooth to a smart phone and use a free app, much cheaper?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    There's a real dearth of cheap through axles. Rock Shox are about the cheapest. Shame no one like Superstar do them, yet! KCNC do a limited selection depending on what your frame is.

    If you're serious about turbo training check out TrainerRoad - you'll need a USB ant+ stick, but it's very good indeed.
  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    The old Maxle Lite is crap. I replaced mine with the new Maxle which is much better.
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobi ... lsrc=aw.ds
  • Thanks everyone. Computer and maxle en route.

    I didn't realise that there was a new version of the maxle, I hope the lip is stronger on the new ones.

    CC
    '14 Whyte T129s-*DEAD*
    OnOne Codeine 29er
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Can't be any worse, the old ones are crap! Keep considering a Carbon-Ti bolt up job.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Extralite do some nice bolt up....
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • poah
    poah Posts: 3,369
    njee20 wrote:
    Can't be any worse, the old ones are crap! Keep considering a Carbon-Ti bolt up job.

    seems hardly worth it for the weight saving or the extra colour
  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    POAH wrote:
    njee20 wrote:
    Can't be any worse, the old ones are crap! Keep considering a Carbon-Ti bolt up job.

    seems hardly worth it for the weight saving or the extra colour

    Double what I paid for the new style maxle and it doesn't even have a quick release.
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    POAH wrote:
    njee20 wrote:
    Can't be any worse, the old ones are crap! Keep considering a Carbon-Ti bolt up job.

    seems hardly worth it for the weight saving or the extra colour

    Double what I paid for the new style maxle and it doesn't even have a quick release.

    They are a whole chunk lighter, about half the weight of a Maxle. Not bothered by lack of QR, always got an allen key, they needn't be any slower to undo.
  • poah
    poah Posts: 3,369
    njee20 wrote:
    POAH wrote:
    njee20 wrote:
    Can't be any worse, the old ones are crap! Keep considering a Carbon-Ti bolt up job.

    seems hardly worth it for the weight saving or the extra colour

    Double what I paid for the new style maxle and it doesn't even have a quick release.

    They are a whole chunk lighter, about half the weight of a Maxle. Not bothered by lack of QR, always got an allen key, they needn't be any slower to undo.


    35g or so isn't really a whole chunk lighter
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    It's about half the weight of a Maxle. Are you struggling with this? It's basic reading.

    Not really any cheaper way I'd save 70g on my bike, with the added advantage that they wouldn't be crap. Will 70g make a discernible difference? No. Would saving 70g off every component? Yes.
  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    But it's 70g from one component. After lighter whee8 and tyres I would rather be loosing weight from higher on the bike. Your bike needs to be very light before its worth spending that much to loose 70g. Most of that weight loss is probably from just not having a qr lever so you are basically paying more for a part which is cheaper to manufacture.
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    But it's 70g from one component. After lighter whee8 and tyres I would rather be loosing weight from higher on the bike. Your bike needs to be very light before its worth spending that much to loose 70g. Most of that weight loss is probably from just not having a qr lever so you are basically paying more for a part which is cheaper to manufacture.

    My bike is very light. Hence its a cost effective weight saving. Where would your suggestion be that I save 70g for £110 or so? Obviously that is a lot of money for a small saving still. Hence I've not bought them in the year or so I've considered them. Make sense? I'll concede I could save quite a bit with foam grips (30g), but I find the ESI Racer's Edge comfy, and they're acceptably light.

    It's not really just because you take the QR out, I agree they're expensive, lots of reasons for that, I didn't ask why though, but thanks for your insight.
  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    Most of that 70g will be in the parts you're not getting which would suggest it should be cheaper, not double the price.
    I understand they are made in smaller quantities but you could make that axle with no special tooling and only a couple hours set up for a production run on a standard three axis CNC lathe with bar feed.
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Correct! Would it be as light though? A Maxle lever doesn't weigh 35g.

    I'm waiting for Superstar or someone to do one.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    There comes a point when weight saving when savings of £2 pr more per gram becomes the price you have to pay, there are only so many cheap hits (though I seem to still come across a few!).
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    It does feel like one of the Taiwanese catalogue guys could cotton on to this, Shift Up do a cheaper through axle, but not cheap cheap. Likewise KCNC, and only a couple of models. Doesn't help I guess that RS/Fox/Marzocchi etc all require different ones, despite all being 15mm. Can guarantee that if I buy Carbon Ti ones that someone will release a cheap one straight away! Be good to see Mt Zoom do one, their shade of green is spot on!
  • poah
    poah Posts: 3,369
    njee20 wrote:
    It's about half the weight of a Maxle. Are you struggling with this? It's basic reading.

    eh? half the weight of a maxle is 37.5g.

    you said "They are a whole chunk lighter, about half the weight of a Maxle"

    I said "35g or so isn't really a whole chunk lighter"

    what have I struggled with? 37.5g over the whole weight of a bike isn't a whole lot of weight
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Good god. It's like pulling teeth.

    I've not said it is. But it's 50% the stock weight, if you halve the weight of every component on the bike that is quite a lot. You make a bike light by fitting a lot of light components, not a few here and there. Light bikes ride more nicely IMO.
  • poah
    poah Posts: 3,369
    njee20 wrote:
    Good god. It's like pulling teeth.

    I've not said it is. But it's 50% the stock weight, if you halve the weight of every component on the bike that is quite a lot. You make a bike light by fitting a lot of light components, not a few here and there. Light bikes ride more nicely IMO.
    yes, your teeth as you clearly can't grasp my comment.

    I'm not arguing that its not 50% of the stock weight or that it isn't lighter and as you've already said you have a light bike with top end lightweight XC components 35g isn't going to make any significant difference.
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    But if you didn't save 35g on individual components it wouldn't be light.

    You can buy a light frame, fork and wheels. Then stick Deore and some heavy finishing kit on. Won't be light. 35g in something so small is a lot.