Fitting 11spd onto 9spd frame?

caracolito
caracolito Posts: 55
edited December 2014 in Workshop
hi

I received a full 105 11 spd groupset. :D
However - my frame is an old (2004) 9spd frame. :(

1. My rear wheel can easily fit 10spd, but 11 don't fit. Is this just a case of replacing the wheel?
2. Will my frame take the new BB?
3. Will my old chainset (shimano 5 "spider") be easily replaced with the new one?

or... do I have to get new frame (assuming I want to move to 11 spd / modern groupset) :?:

Thanks!
Going uphill fast, is easy; all you need are legs and lungs. Going downhill fast is hard... you need... balls.

Comments

  • keezx
    keezx Posts: 1,322
    All frames built after 1992 are 130 mm wide in the rear, so 8/9/10/11 speed whatever you like, new frame not necessary.
    1-Replace wheel or freehub body, yes
    2-Probably, depends on thread (BSA=68 mm wide, ITA=70 mm )
    3-Yes, see 2 , but you need specific BB for the new chainset.
  • imposter2.0
    imposter2.0 Posts: 12,028
    No such thing as a '9-speed' frame....
  • caracolito
    caracolito Posts: 55
    Keezx wrote:
    All frames built after 1992 are 130 mm wide in the rear, so 8/9/10/11 speed whatever you like, new frame not necessary.
    1-Replace wheel or freehub body, yes
    2-Probably, depends on thread (BSA=68 mm wide, ITA=70 mm )
    3-Yes, see 2 , but you need specific BB for the new chainset.

    Brilliant! Best news I could ask for!

    Wheel / hub shopping then :-)
    And BB tool probably... but I was due one for a while now :D

    THANKS!
    Going uphill fast, is easy; all you need are legs and lungs. Going downhill fast is hard... you need... balls.
  • DKay
    DKay Posts: 1,652
    Replacing just the freehub body won't work. The rear wheel will need redishing too, to account for the longer freehub body.
    N
    N+1
  • caracolito
    caracolito Posts: 55
    "Dramatic update" :idea: :!:

    On the freehub (Mavic) there was an extra (!?) shim, pushing the previous cassette out by 1mm or so.
    Removed it.
    New cassette attached...

    Any concerns?

    Thanks again!
    Going uphill fast, is easy; all you need are legs and lungs. Going downhill fast is hard... you need... balls.
  • Barbarossa
    Barbarossa Posts: 248
    DKay wrote:
    Replacing just the freehub body won't work. The rear wheel will need redishing too, to account for the longer freehub body.

    Not true.
  • Barbarossa
    Barbarossa Posts: 248
    caracolito wrote:
    On qthe freehub (Mavic) there was an extra (!?) shim, pushing the previous cassette out by 1mm or so.
    Removed it!

    Mavic wheels have been 11 speed compatible since long before 11 speed groupsets arrived. Work that one out!
  • caracolito
    caracolito Posts: 55
    Barbarossa wrote:
    Mavic wheels have been 11 speed compatible since long before 11 speed groupsets arrived. Work that one out!

    That's called foresight... well done Mavic :-)
    Thanks for your answer!
    Going uphill fast, is easy; all you need are legs and lungs. Going downhill fast is hard... you need... balls.
  • DKay
    DKay Posts: 1,652
    Barbarossa wrote:
    DKay wrote:
    Replacing just the freehub body won't work. The rear wheel will need redishing too, to account for the longer freehub body.

    Not true.

    Depends on the wheel, true.
    N
    N+1
  • keezx
    keezx Posts: 1,322
    caracolito wrote:
    Barbarossa wrote:
    Mavic wheels have been 11 speed compatible since long before 11 speed groupsets arrived. Work that one out!

    That's called foresight... well done Mavic :-)
    Thanks for your answer!

    Mavic does some things wrong, but this is good.
  • caracolito
    caracolito Posts: 55
    Progress report:
    1 right hand shifter
    2 cassette
    3 rear mech
    installed, initial testing positive - all seems working.

    Tomorrow BB and crank.

    Yes, taking my sweet time. But, making good progress.

    Thanks all!
    Going uphill fast, is easy; all you need are legs and lungs. Going downhill fast is hard... you need... balls.
  • salsarider79
    salsarider79 Posts: 828
    DKay wrote:
    Replacing just the freehub body won't work. The rear wheel will need redishing too, to account for the longer freehub body.

    This made me laugh. Thank you DKay :lol: I would love to know DKay thinks this....
    jedster wrote:
    Just off to contemplate my own mortality and inevitable descent into decrepedness.
    FCN 3 or 4 on road depending on clothing
    FCN 8 off road because I'm too old to go racing around.
  • DKay
    DKay Posts: 1,652
    salsarider79 wrote:
    DKay wrote:
    Replacing just the freehub body won't work. The rear wheel will need redishing too, to account for the longer freehub body.

    This made me laugh. Thank you DKay :lol: I would love to know DKay thinks this....

    I would love to know what it is you're trying to say. Glad to brighten up your day though.
    N
    N+1
  • salsarider79
    salsarider79 Posts: 828
    Just wondering why you think you would need to re dish the wheel when replacing the freehub.....?
    jedster wrote:
    Just off to contemplate my own mortality and inevitable descent into decrepedness.
    FCN 3 or 4 on road depending on clothing
    FCN 8 off road because I'm too old to go racing around.
  • DKay
    DKay Posts: 1,652
    Because Shimano 11spd. feehubs are 1.85mm wider than 10spd. freehubs. This is why some rear wheels will need redishing, depending on the manufacturer. With some manufacturers (like Zipp for instance), you'll also need to replace the axle, end caps and spacers.

    I'm glad that you find this fact hilarious.
    N
    N+1
  • keezx
    keezx Posts: 1,322
    Correct.
    No hassle with axle= No redishing.
  • salsarider79
    salsarider79 Posts: 828
    DKay wrote:
    Because Shimano 11spd. feehubs are 1.85mm wider than 10spd. freehubs. This is why some rear wheels will need redishing, depending on the manufacturer. With some manufacturers (like Zipp for instance), you'll also need to replace the axle, end caps and spacers.

    I'm glad that you find this fact hilarious.


    I work in a bike shop and have converted bikes from 9 + 10 spd to 11spd and have never had to redish a wheel as yet.
    However, I'm always trying to learn and am prepared to be proved wrong and so I had to have a little investigation into this.....and you are right :oops: Some manufacturers do say that you should redish the wheel when retro fitting an 11spd freehub body. I've done this conversion several times and as yet, have never had any problems with the wheel needing to be dished - the brakes still line up, etc, etc. I would imagine that it'll be the manufacturers that make a spacer to space the hub out to 131mm hub rather than the 130mm it would have been originally. I don't understand how else the wheel would need redishing....
    p.s. As it is said, you live and learn.....
    jedster wrote:
    Just off to contemplate my own mortality and inevitable descent into decrepedness.
    FCN 3 or 4 on road depending on clothing
    FCN 8 off road because I'm too old to go racing around.
  • mattv
    mattv Posts: 992
    SRAM insist on having early zipp wheels returned to them for redishing when converting to 11. It must be due to a pair of new end caps, not just the freehub end. The overall locknut width has to stay at 130mm, so where does the extra 1.85mm come from? Some wheels are already tight to some frame dropouts in 10th gear on a standard 10sp freehub.
  • salsarider79
    salsarider79 Posts: 828
    Yeah, new end caps. The hubs measure 131mm not 130mm with the new end caps fitted. The 1.85mm is the extra width of the freehub body to fit the 11spd cassette.
    jedster wrote:
    Just off to contemplate my own mortality and inevitable descent into decrepedness.
    FCN 3 or 4 on road depending on clothing
    FCN 8 off road because I'm too old to go racing around.

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