Front derailluer shifting problems

graememacd
graememacd Posts: 386
edited December 2014 in MTB workshop & tech
I'm having problems shifting into the big ring with my SLX double front derailluer using Deore shifters. It is really hard to push the shifter into place. I have attached a couple of pictures,any ideas let me know

IMG_4490_zps9480e0b9.jpg

IMG_4493_zpsac068d09.jpg

Comments

  • Youve got the cable on the wrong side of the anchor bolt it should be running round from the outside of the mech, if you undo it and switch it it should shift fine
    Dmr Transition 26"
    Giant Anthem 27.5 SX
    Giant Defy Advanced Pro 1
    Cannondale Chase
  • Just done that and it does move the derailluer more easily however the shifter now doesn't get anywhere near the position where it clicks into place
  • Check the limit screws are set correctly if the high limit is to far in it wont allow the shifter to click in
    Dmr Transition 26"
    Giant Anthem 27.5 SX
    Giant Defy Advanced Pro 1
    Cannondale Chase
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    What did you change?
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • chuase05 wrote:
    Check the limit screws are set correctly if the high limit is to far in it wont allow the shifter to click in

    I think the limit screws are ok, I am wondering if the deore shifters are set up for 10 speed as I know the XT ones have a switch at the bottom to change between double and triple. No such switch on deore
  • cooldad wrote:
    What did you change?

    I changed how the cable clamps to the derailluer. In the second photo it now comes down to the left of the allen bolt and round underneath it sticking out to the right
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    No difference ten to nine speed and that wouldn't make it hard to shift, sounds very like you are pulling it onto the limit screw and that's making is harder, even if the limit screw is set right you could have changed the cable tension when it was apart and thus it's not getting into the next gear at the shifter before hitting the limit screw, back off the limit screw a bit and I bet you fix it.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • The Rookie wrote:
    No difference ten to nine speed and that wouldn't make it hard to shift, sounds very like you are pulling it onto the limit screw and that's making is harder, even if the limit screw is set right you could have changed the cable tension when it was apart and thus it's not getting into the next gear at the shifter before hitting the limit screw, back off the limit screw a bit and I bet you fix it.

    I'll have a play with it this afternoon and see if it is that. Hopefully that'll sort it. I'll let you know!
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    If in doubt, start all over again, read the guide on Parktool.com
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    graememacd wrote:
    cooldad wrote:
    What did you change?

    I changed how the cable clamps to the derailluer. In the second photo it now comes down to the left of the allen bolt and round underneath it sticking out to the right
    I meant what did you do just before it became a problem. Presumably at some point it worked?
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    The Rookie wrote:
    If in doubt, start all over again, read the guide on Parktool.com
    And this.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • cooldad wrote:
    graememacd wrote:
    cooldad wrote:
    What did you change?

    I changed how the cable clamps to the derailluer. In the second photo it now comes down to the left of the allen bolt and round underneath it sticking out to the right
    I meant what did you do just before it became a problem. Presumably at some point it worked?

    I didn't change anything, it was a bike i built up earlier this year and it has always been like this. I haven't ridden it that much that's why it hasn't really been a problem but as it gets cold and slippy out there i tend to leave the road bike in the garage and head out on the mountain bike. it would change into the big ring but it would take a lot of force to get it there
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Then this
    cooldad wrote:
    The Rookie wrote:
    If in doubt, start all over again, read the guide on Parktool.com
    And this.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    99% it's the stop by using a lot of force you are stretching/ bending everything until the shifter engages into the higher gear.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Solved! The limit screws were fine however the shifter has 3 positions and I had the double chainset set to use the first two positions on the shifter. I changed it so the smaller chain ring was position 2 and the bigger ring at position 3. All sorted and I can't believe I didn't spot this before! Obviously used to building double chainset Road bikes...
    Thanks for the replies all
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    So was just bad set up which has been fixed by adjusting correctly. It makes no difference which click you start from.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Doesn't make one iota of difference which way round it was, but by doing that you will have had to set the cable tension again won't you, bad set up and the stop screw in the way.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Clearly it does make a difference! I tried several things to get it working before, it shifts exactly how it should now
  • shindig
    shindig Posts: 173
    I ran into the same issue when setting up my 2 x 9. I googled and found that first to second draws 7mm of cable, while 2nd to 3rd draws 11mm cable.
  • shindig wrote:
    I ran into the same issue when setting up my 2 x 9. I googled and found that first to second draws 7mm of cable, while 2nd to 3rd draws 11mm cable.

    That would definitely explain it then, thanks
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    graememacd wrote:
    shindig wrote:
    I ran into the same issue when setting up my 2 x 9. I googled and found that first to second draws 7mm of cable, while 2nd to 3rd draws 11mm cable.

    That would definitely explain it then, thanks

    I'll believe that when I see the reference.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I've run mine both way rounds, no problem, even if it did draw more cable it would still move the mech unless something stopped it, oh like the stop.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • graememacd
    graememacd Posts: 386
    edited December 2014
    Clearly not as the stops were already set, plus the mech did move. I'm not sure you understood the problem. Thanks for your suggestions anyway
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    You aren't getting it are you, the stop may have been in the right place but the cable was too tight pulling it into the stop before it engaged the ratchet at the shifter, suggest you avail yourself of an understanding of how it works before telling us we are wrong.

    Just undid a Deore left hand shifter, same radius spool all the way round, so same app able pull for both clicks.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Not really sure what you're trying to achieve here. The problem is fixed. Give it a rest
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Trying to educate you.....after all you couldn't even route the cable right at the start.....
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Grow up and go and bother some one else. Merry Christmas
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I am grown up, just you aren't grown up enough to
    1/ recognise it
    2/ be gracious to people who have spent their time trying to help you
    3/ acknowledge that people are trying to educate you so you don't have issues again in the future

    Merry Christmas to you as well.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.