Dolan Cyclocross - Multicross 105 5800
oms
Posts: 13
It's been a few years since I last built a 'do it all' (see my old thread viewtopic.php?f=40044&t=12852353)...
...on this occasion, I fancied ordering something directly from a shop, without having to build it.
What struck me, was the seriously low spec components on most things under £1000, until I came across this:
http://www.dolan-bikes.com/dolan-cyclo- ... -5800.html
So for £750, it's excellent value for money.
Ordering from Dolan was easy. Not only were they able to accommodate a few changes post-order, they were able to build and ship the bike so as to enable me to take it on holiday! A big thumbs up to the guys there.
This is what it looks like in a 50cm (with a few personal touches added) weighing-in at around 9.2kg (including pedals):
The Graham Weigh cyclocross frame was identical to the old Dolan Multi-X frame. However, things have changed a little - top tube lengths.
Old frames:
New frames:
So, whereas I had a 48cm frame on my GW build... I went for a 50cm Dolan frame on this occasion (to give me the same TT length). This, combined with the compact bars supplied, means it's actually a better fit than before.
So, what's new?
The Dolan frame looks lovely in black - very glossy, and the logos are lacquered-in. The GW frame, in contrast, was very plain (with plain 'WEIGH' stickers added in-store before shipping... but it did cost £50 less purchase).
It turns better but feels comfier- probably more due my new bar/stem setup than the frame. I doubt a 1.5 degree seat tube angle would actually make noticeable difference. Regardless, I'm pleased.
The new 105 5800 11-speed group set works very well indeed! I remember my old Tricross Comp (10 speed), with an ultegra/105 combo which was frankly rubbish in comparison. Things have definitely moved-on - the slick shifting has been the most noticeable difference.
Shimano is not offering an 11-speed triple at the moment - so if you're touring with luggage make sure that Shimano's 11-32 cassette option is enough for you.
My bike came with a SRAM 1130 chain - I really have no idea what difference it makes, however I've always tried to stick to matching components so I'd have preferred a 5800 chain. That said, it works well (see above) and the power link makes it very easy to install/remove - perhaps that's why they use it.
The Avid Shorty 4 cantis are much better than my previous 'Frogs Bollox' out of the box... and better than those mini-v type things I've tried in the past. We'll see what they're like in the wet. The Avids use wide MTB type pads, so the I expect the surface-area will probably help.
The RS11 rear wheel is better than my old RS20, in my opinion. The free-hub body has less play, and has a more satisfying ratchet 'click'. Time will tell as to whether it'll last any longer (I went through three freehubs in 4000 miles on my RS20 wheelset).
As for the rest: Well, it's a bike at the end of the day, I'd best get on an ride it!
Regards.
Full-spec (non-standard items in italics):
Dolan Multicross Aluminium Cyclo Cross Frame - 50cm
Alpina Front Cable Hanger - 1 1/8 Inch
31.9mm Front Mech Clamp
USE Alien Cyclops carbon seat post
Alpina Carbon Blade with Aluminium Steerer Cyclo Cross Fork
Alpina 36x45 Headset
Tektro Cantilever Guide 31.9mm Seatpost Clamp
Shimano 105 Black FC-5800 170mm 50-34 Chainset
Shimano 105/105 Black CS-5800 11-speed Cassette Sprocket 11-28T
Avid Shorty 4 Cantilever Brakes
SRAM PC 1130 chain
Shimano 105 Black FD-5800 Front Derailleur
Shimano 105 Black RD-5800 Rear Derailleur
Shimano 105 Black ST-5800 -LControl Levers (pair)
Shimano 105 SM-BB5800 Bottom Bracket
Deda Elementi RHM 01 40cm Handlebars
Deda Red Tape
Deda Zero 1 Black 80mm Stem
Alpina 1/8" 10mm Black Alloy Headset Spacers
Specalized Phenom SL Saddle (143)
Shimano RS11 Wheelset
Superstar Components Superfly Carbon Ti QR skewers
Serfas Seca RS 28c tyres (orange)
Continental 700 x 28-35c Inner Tubes
Crank Brothers Eggbeater 1 pedals
...on this occasion, I fancied ordering something directly from a shop, without having to build it.
What struck me, was the seriously low spec components on most things under £1000, until I came across this:
http://www.dolan-bikes.com/dolan-cyclo- ... -5800.html
So for £750, it's excellent value for money.
Ordering from Dolan was easy. Not only were they able to accommodate a few changes post-order, they were able to build and ship the bike so as to enable me to take it on holiday! A big thumbs up to the guys there.
This is what it looks like in a 50cm (with a few personal touches added) weighing-in at around 9.2kg (including pedals):
The Graham Weigh cyclocross frame was identical to the old Dolan Multi-X frame. However, things have changed a little - top tube lengths.
Old frames:
New frames:
So, whereas I had a 48cm frame on my GW build... I went for a 50cm Dolan frame on this occasion (to give me the same TT length). This, combined with the compact bars supplied, means it's actually a better fit than before.
So, what's new?
The Dolan frame looks lovely in black - very glossy, and the logos are lacquered-in. The GW frame, in contrast, was very plain (with plain 'WEIGH' stickers added in-store before shipping... but it did cost £50 less purchase).
It turns better but feels comfier- probably more due my new bar/stem setup than the frame. I doubt a 1.5 degree seat tube angle would actually make noticeable difference. Regardless, I'm pleased.
The new 105 5800 11-speed group set works very well indeed! I remember my old Tricross Comp (10 speed), with an ultegra/105 combo which was frankly rubbish in comparison. Things have definitely moved-on - the slick shifting has been the most noticeable difference.
Shimano is not offering an 11-speed triple at the moment - so if you're touring with luggage make sure that Shimano's 11-32 cassette option is enough for you.
My bike came with a SRAM 1130 chain - I really have no idea what difference it makes, however I've always tried to stick to matching components so I'd have preferred a 5800 chain. That said, it works well (see above) and the power link makes it very easy to install/remove - perhaps that's why they use it.
The Avid Shorty 4 cantis are much better than my previous 'Frogs Bollox' out of the box... and better than those mini-v type things I've tried in the past. We'll see what they're like in the wet. The Avids use wide MTB type pads, so the I expect the surface-area will probably help.
The RS11 rear wheel is better than my old RS20, in my opinion. The free-hub body has less play, and has a more satisfying ratchet 'click'. Time will tell as to whether it'll last any longer (I went through three freehubs in 4000 miles on my RS20 wheelset).
As for the rest: Well, it's a bike at the end of the day, I'd best get on an ride it!
Regards.
Full-spec (non-standard items in italics):
Dolan Multicross Aluminium Cyclo Cross Frame - 50cm
Alpina Front Cable Hanger - 1 1/8 Inch
31.9mm Front Mech Clamp
USE Alien Cyclops carbon seat post
Alpina Carbon Blade with Aluminium Steerer Cyclo Cross Fork
Alpina 36x45 Headset
Tektro Cantilever Guide 31.9mm Seatpost Clamp
Shimano 105 Black FC-5800 170mm 50-34 Chainset
Shimano 105/105 Black CS-5800 11-speed Cassette Sprocket 11-28T
Avid Shorty 4 Cantilever Brakes
SRAM PC 1130 chain
Shimano 105 Black FD-5800 Front Derailleur
Shimano 105 Black RD-5800 Rear Derailleur
Shimano 105 Black ST-5800 -LControl Levers (pair)
Shimano 105 SM-BB5800 Bottom Bracket
Deda Elementi RHM 01 40cm Handlebars
Deda Red Tape
Deda Zero 1 Black 80mm Stem
Alpina 1/8" 10mm Black Alloy Headset Spacers
Specalized Phenom SL Saddle (143)
Shimano RS11 Wheelset
Superstar Components Superfly Carbon Ti QR skewers
Serfas Seca RS 28c tyres (orange)
Continental 700 x 28-35c Inner Tubes
Crank Brothers Eggbeater 1 pedals
0
Comments
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Hi, looks nice!
I'm a complete CX novice, looking at a bike myself at the minute.
Would that gears on that frame be prone to 'clogging' in muddy CX races with the cables running on the downtube/bottom dropout?
Cheers,
Cormac0 -
Well they are certainly where the mud goes, but my Tricross was fine (had similar routing). It depends what you are using it for day to day. I suppose the most modern solution is internal routing.0
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No, down tube cable routing makes no difference to getting muddied up.
Some people are of the opinion that you could hurt your hand on the cables picking up the bike by the down tube!!), but I race this exact fame and often pick up by the down tube with no issues at all.
Top tube cable rear derailleur routings have their own problems as the cable stop faces upwards much can drain that way and / or freeze.0 -
My solution to this problem is to use Nokon cables, where the outer cable is made of metal segments threaded onto a flexible inner tube. You can then run a continuous inner all the way from shifter to rear mech, and the only place mud and water can get in is at the mech itself.Chris James wrote:Top tube cable rear derailleur routings have their own problems as the cable stop faces upwards much can drain that way and / or freeze.
You could do the same with I-Link cables, but I found they were too easily damaged.Pannier, 120rpm.0 -
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You might want to look at your handlebar and saddle positions in time?Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..0
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That's definitely not a bad shout ^^^
Bike looks like a good spec for the money, I've got a Dolan track frame and I love it. Decent prices0 -
Hi again, sorry for delay, have been busy with exams.
Thanks guys, have been looking at cross frames and avoiding downtube cables was seriously limiting my possibilities.
Seeing as you like the few orange bits, it could be worth looking on CRC and Wiggle, they've a few nice anodized bits that come in orange!
Thanks again.0
