rotor bolts
Ferrals
Posts: 785
Will be getting new hubs next week so will be switching rotors over. I know you should use threadlock, which type as there is a range of options?
Also is it good practice to get new bolts for a new hub? I'm guessing that given they are only a few quid it's not the worst idea in the world but maybe not necessary. If so, any to go for/avoid? I won't be spending £20 on Ti ones!
Also is it good practice to get new bolts for a new hub? I'm guessing that given they are only a few quid it's not the worst idea in the world but maybe not necessary. If so, any to go for/avoid? I won't be spending £20 on Ti ones!
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Comments
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Most come with blue threadlock as standard I believe.
I got my ti ones for 50p each, so 6 quid in total, and they're now on their 4th wheelset and third bike along with all my other ti bolts and other random bits of ti
Happy to send you the standard ones if you want? Pretty sure I have 12 unused in my toolbox, or at least 6.Current:
NukeProof Mega FR 2012
Cube NuRoad 2018
Previous:
2015 Genesis CdF 10, 2014 Cube Hyde Race, 2012 NS Traffic, 2007 Specialized SX Trail, 2005 Specialized Demo 80 -
any medium threadlock. ie 248.
no need to replace."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Where did you get the Ti ones for 50p each? the hope ones I saw on CRC were £18 for 6!! I'd be tempted to get Ti at that price - no rusting :-) - oterwise I'll just re-use mine0
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Ferrals wrote:Where did you get the Ti ones for 50p each? the hope ones I saw on CRC were £18 for 6!! I'd be tempted to get Ti at that price - no rusting :-) - oterwise I'll just re-use mine
You can find them cheap on eBay if you don't mind buying from Hong Kong, or for a little bit more if you want them from UK. Still cheaper than CRC
No rusting is the reason I like them, as opposed to any marginal weight savings.Current:
NukeProof Mega FR 2012
Cube NuRoad 2018
Previous:
2015 Genesis CdF 10, 2014 Cube Hyde Race, 2012 NS Traffic, 2007 Specialized SX Trail, 2005 Specialized Demo 80 -
Yeah my thoughts too - i really need to get Ti caliper fixing bolts too as the rear set are super rusty (i only have one drying towel and its oily so i am wary of touching break related bits with it!)0
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I run 3 alu and 3 ti in each wheel. Lighter than ti, no rust and pretty colours! Did have 6 alu in each, when I was using purpose designed Ashima rotor bolts, bit soft though.0
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njee20 wrote:I run 3 alu and 3 ti in each wheel. Lighter than ti, no rust and pretty colours! Did have 6 alu in each, when I was using purpose designed Ashima rotor bolts, bit soft though.
I had a workmate who was a totally weight obsessive motorbike racer - machined himself a lovely pair of aluminium alloy brake caliper bolts. First race, gets a flyer off the grid, first corner brakes hard, bolts snap, crashes and breaks collarbone - if there's one material not suited to safety-critical parts it's aluminium alloy.Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..0 -
Yep, well aware of the limitations.0
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Many racers just run three ti bolts.
Of course the disc mounting is totally different to your calliper bolt, the disc bolts compress the disc to the hub and the friction stops it moving anywhere so as long as the Al bolts provide the same tension they work just as well.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
Front calliper bolts are similar - the forces are pushing the calliper into the fork, and indeed the leading bolt on a rear post mount brake.
I wouldn't go as far as 'many' racers running three. One or two do certainly, but most don't really care about weight as much as you'd expect!0
