Best upgrades for a Whyte 29C
How Far is too Far
Posts: 534
Hi, just recently got a Whyte 29C after not having had an MTB for a few years, I ride CX and Road bikes normally.
The bike is the basic carbon 29er and weighs 11.1KG on my scales with pedals. It is the one with Sram X9 and Reba Forks.
I want to do a bit of local XC racing next year and was wondering what peoples thoughts were on getting my bike more race worthy. I fancy a lighter set of wheels, does anyone know the weight of the standard Whyte wheels to save me stripping them to find out?
I normally use the bike to ride red routs at trail centres and weigh 80kg
Also are there any other areas to save weight without spending big money? (I have already changed the saddle)
Thanks
The bike is the basic carbon 29er and weighs 11.1KG on my scales with pedals. It is the one with Sram X9 and Reba Forks.
I want to do a bit of local XC racing next year and was wondering what peoples thoughts were on getting my bike more race worthy. I fancy a lighter set of wheels, does anyone know the weight of the standard Whyte wheels to save me stripping them to find out?
I normally use the bike to ride red routs at trail centres and weigh 80kg
Also are there any other areas to save weight without spending big money? (I have already changed the saddle)
Thanks
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Comments
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Have you got a link to the spec? Seems to be a few models about.0
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It helps to provide a link to the bike specs....
http://www.bikesheduk.com/whyte-29-c-2014 (the Whyte website no longer shows one with X9)
Foam grips will be an easy and cheap way to lose 100g.
Most of the finishing kit isn't branded, so it's hard to guess the weight, so you'll have to take bits off and weigh them.
Wheels and tyres plus tubes (or going tubeless) always give the most improvement so the best bet is to take them off, strip them down and weigh them, but the wheels don't sound very light from the details given.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
As above, wheels and tyres always make the most noticeable weight difference... but it's already a light bike to be honest and whilst there are areas to save weight you'll never get it CX/road bike light without major compromises in strength.
Swap the brakes for Shimano if you want an easier life though... and better brakesCurrent:
NukeProof Mega FR 2012
Cube NuRoad 2018
Previous:
2015 Genesis CdF 10, 2014 Cube Hyde Race, 2012 NS Traffic, 2007 Specialized SX Trail, 2005 Specialized Demo 80 -
Thanks,
This is the full spec. of my bike. It is a late 2013 model I bought it used but I guess it has done no more than 200 miles.
Specification
Weight 10.7kg
Frame Uni-directional Multi Monocoque, with Post Mount chainsty mounted disk brake and full carbon dropouts
Fork Rockshox Reba RL, 100mm Travel, Tapered Steerer, Matchmaker PushLock Remote Lockout
Rear Shock N/A
Headset FSA Integrated, Orbit ZS Plus, 1 1/8" - 1 1/2" Sealed Cartridge Bearings
Rear Hub Whyte XC-209 Wheelset, 32 StSt spokes, 6 Bolt hub with double sealed catridge bearings
Front Hub Whyte XC-209 Wheelset, 28 StSt spokes, 6 Bolt hub, double sealed catridge bearing
Spokes Stainless Steel Spokes
Rims Whyte X-C 209
Tyres Maxxis IKON, 60TPI Folding Bead, 29" x 2.2"
Shift Levers SRAM X-9, 10 Speed
Front Derailleur SRAM X-7, 10 Speed
Rear Derailleur SRAM X-9 Type 2 medium Cage, 10 Speed, White/Black
Cassette SRAM PG-1030, 11-36, 10 Speed
Chain SRAM 1031 with Power Link, 10 Speed
Crankset SRAM S1000 PressFit30, 38/24, 29er Ratio Compact Double, 10 Speed
Bottom Bracket SRAM PressFit 30
Seatpost Whyte Custom 2014 Alloy, 30.9mm x 400mm, 2 bolt clamp
Saddle Whyte Custom dual density, triple panel design
Bar Whyte Custom 2014 Alloy, Flat, 700mm Wide
Stem Whyte Custom, -6 Degree, 70mm S and M and 80mm Large
Grips Whyte Race, Foam Lock-on
Brakes Front Avid Elixir 3, Matchmaker, 170mm Rotor
Brakes Rear Avid Elixir 3, Matchmaker, 160mm Rotor
Brake Levers Avid Elixir 3
Pedals N/A0 -
Unless you want change your whole drivetrain or start drilling holes in things, then the only areas for realistic weight savings I see are...
Lighter wheels
Lighter tyres
Go tubless
XTR brakes
Carbon bars
Carbon seat post (or just cut down the current one)
Rookie might have a few more suggestions but personally I don't think you can do much else without facing diminishing returns or risking failure.
As I said, it was never a heavy bike to start withCurrent:
NukeProof Mega FR 2012
Cube NuRoad 2018
Previous:
2015 Genesis CdF 10, 2014 Cube Hyde Race, 2012 NS Traffic, 2007 Specialized SX Trail, 2005 Specialized Demo 80 -
Thanks, I might strip the wheels down and see what they weigh what would be a good set of wheels for less than £400? CX use with a few trail centres (not much air I am too old for that ;-) )
The bars are massively wide so might cut them down. Then I guess it will just be see how I get n with it. I was just hoping it would be a bit quicker, but I guess I am more use to a much lighter CX and road bikes.0 -
How Far is too Far wrote:Thanks, I might strip the wheels down and see what they weigh what would be a good set of wheels for less than £400? CX use with a few trail centres (not much air I am too old for that ;-) )
The bars are massively wide so might cut them down. Then I guess it will just be see how I get n with it. I was just hoping it would be a bit quicker, but I guess I am more use to a much lighter CX and road bikes.
I think that's it really, but give it a few weeks riding and you'll get used to it and it's weight will seem normal.
Chopping bars down is a good shout, for comfort and control if nothing else.Current:
NukeProof Mega FR 2012
Cube NuRoad 2018
Previous:
2015 Genesis CdF 10, 2014 Cube Hyde Race, 2012 NS Traffic, 2007 Specialized SX Trail, 2005 Specialized Demo 80 -
tyres are already pretty light @ 580g
you can loose a bit more going tubeless depending on the weight of the tubes.
you'll have to see how much the bars, stem, saddle, seat post, wheels weight before you think about buying lighter ones. for wheels LB carbon XC would be a little over 400 built up and weight around 1455g0 -
As has been mentioned I'd be changing the brakes on that list, not necessarily for weight but having used elixir 7s previously, I find Shimano brakes much less hassle.
The only other thing that stands out weight wise is possibly the wheels, but hard to tell . Something like Stans crests on decent hubs should be available for under £400.0 -
A 1x conversion would be a decent weight saving, circa 400g is usual.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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I took the saddle of it and it was a brick like 326grms, now replaced with a 130 SLR. The seat post was 258 grms so I guess not that much to be saved from that?0
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100g easy saved from seatpost easy. Depends on size, but they exist - Exotic start from about 150g.0
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Its a 30.9 400mm, so I think the weight is ok at 258grms. I need it to be reliable as I am 12 1/2 st.
Bars and stem are next to be weighed when I get a chance, been too busy riding it and enjoying the snow we have at the moment up north.0 -
I had some time so weighed the wheels
Front 856g Rear 1134g. not super heavy but not light either. Any recommendations for around £300 good for CX racing and Trail centre use.0 -
Go for a wee and a dump before you ride that will save a couple of pounds. I would just ride it and replace the parts with better lighter kit as it wears.Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap0
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Should be able to get some crests on hopes for that, there is a wheel buying thread in buying advice with some good suggestions for 29er wheels...Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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Hope on Crest is the stock choice, won't save that much weight though really. My 26" ones were 1585g.
My Light Bicycle/American Classic 29ers are 1370g, but you'd need to up the budget. I'd be inclined to stick with what you have until you can get something that's a significant improvement.
1x10 is a good shout, if the ratios work for you. Pointless if not. Tubeless brings other advantages and generally a weight saving.0