Wheels ?

wayne10244

Hi just bought a new bike a willier Gtr 105 and want to upgrade the wheels as the ones that came with the bike are only budget wheel shimano rs 30 wheel and the rear won't stay true. I got a budget of about £550 ? But not sure what wheels will be the best

ugo.santalucia

wayne10244 wrote:

Hi just bought a new bike a willier Gtr 105 and want to upgrade the wheels as the ones that came with the bike are only budget wheel shimano rs 30 wheel and the rear won't stay true. I got a budget of about £550 ? But not sure what wheels will be the best

It won't stay true because it needs to be re-tensioned by someone who knows what he is doing... you might spend 2 grand and have exactly the same problem or spend 70 quid for a set that never needs truing... in summary money won't buy you straightness

smoggysteve

Fulcrum 3s would be good and still have cash to spare.3

passout

I'd get them re-tensioned anyway or DIY of course, even if you intend to get a new pair of wheels - the shimanos would useful as spares, winter wheels or to put back on if you sell the bike.

Around 500 is quite a lot. For that I'd be looking at a super-duper hand built set. I'd speak to a well respected wheellbuilder & tell them your needs. Either that or save some money and get some Campag Zondas - for around £270'ish I guess.

Mr Dog

wayne10244 wrote:

in summary money won't buy you straightness

Pure wisdom from the zen master. Finding a good wheelsmith is not an easy task.

Jimbeam3678

Not sure if they deliver but York cycle works built me some superb Hope hubs with H & Son rims for around your price range.

Brilliant wheels

cycleclinic

Hope hubs on H plus Son rims for c.£500 that sounds expensive. Maybe Hope hubs are more expensive than I thought they were.

Jimbeam3678

thecycleclinic wrote:

Hope hubs on H plus Son rims for c.£500 that sounds expensive. Maybe Hope hubs are more expensive than I thought they were.

Mr Dog wrote:

wayne10244 wrote:

Finding a good wheelsmith is not an easy task.

As the above finding a decent wheelsmith is no easy task

cycleclinic

Hope mono's are under £200 for a pair. Add £110 for two archetype rims and assuming round spokes no more than £60 (and it can be alot less for good spokes) you have less than £370 for parts. Add labour and you have a wheelset under £450. Even if CX-rays are used I cannot get it to add up to £500 or even worse £550.

wayne10244

The spokes have even tension as when I pick the bike up from the shop had no problems when I transported my bike back home as I put in in the back of the car and took the front wheel out. When I put the bike in my bike stand I notice the the rear wheel was not running true I got the wheel back running true again plus checked the tension of the spokes with my park spoke tension checker and was all ok but every time I go out on the bike when I came back the wheel is out of true again. Did have a look at some Mavic wheel sets from chain reaction but not sure which ones are best.As the ones I have seen Mavic Cosmic Elite S Road wheel set 2014 and Mavic Ksyrium Elite S WTS road wheel set 2014. Bearing in mind that I'm 15 stone and come from a lot a mountain biking I got so always going through wheels. That's why I want a good set for my road bike ?

smoggysteve

wayne10244 wrote:

Bearing in mind that I'm 15 stone

think I know why your wheels are buckling. Maybe handbuilts are not a bad idea after all

trailflow

OP there is no such thing as the best wheels. It depends what you want out of them and what you will use them for ? Are they for general riding,racing,winter,summer,climbing,aero time trialling ,commuting,touring ect ?

At 15 stone you will want a set that will be strong and durable. Most factory wheels have low spoke counts and maximum weight limits,so something to be aware of.

wayne10244

Well I want a good set of wheels for long rides as where I live it's all hilly plus I only a couple of miles from the tumble mountain in Wales the wheels that I got have a low spoke count as well just want a good upgrade from the ones that came with the bike. Plus with the more mileage I do I will shed some of the weight again as the beginning of the year I was only 13 stone but with ill health and meds the weight went on so want to get back to where I was before!

intheknowcycling.com

Wayne, just looked at upgrade wheels from a dozen different companies in a recent post. Some suggestions in there based on your riding objectives and profile. Steve

cycleclinic

wayne the problem with your wheels is that they have not been built properly there will be tension inblance and add to that the tension on the rear wheel may not be high enough. The rear wheel should be 1200N DS (the park guage under reads so take of 10-15% of the tension it gives). I would send your wheels to a decent wheel builder for attention. Once tensioned properly and stress releived proper.y they will be fine. At 15 stone a 32 spoke rear is really needed. Lower spoke count factory wheels may last a while but are unlikely to do very high miles without spoke breaking.

What rims, hubs and spokes have you got? Seriously this suggestion will save you alot of money. Tension should be +/-5%.

wayne10244

The wheel set I got are shimano RS010 so the hubs are shimano Rs010 just a very cheap wheel set that came with the bike I've looked and you can buy a wheelset set of these wheels for under £100

wishitwasallflat

wayne10244 wrote:

The wheel set I got are shimano RS010 so the hubs are shimano Rs010 just a very cheap wheel set that came with the bike I've looked and you can buy a wheelset set of these wheels for under £100

RS10s won't last you long at 15 st, get yourself a set of 32(H) min handbuilts.

Mr Dog wrote:

wayne10244 wrote:

in summary money won't buy you straightness

Pure wisdom from the zen master. Finding a good wheelsmith is not an easy task.

Well there's two with very good reps posting in this thread and never forget Harry Rowland is just a call away so that wasn't so hard was it

passout

...or just buy some hand made (but not custom) Hope hoops off the shelf - just over 300. I have the ones with Open Pro rims and like them - solid.

http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/reviews/ ... ono-wheels

ai_1

Wayne,

The fact the existing wheels only cost about £100 doesn't mean they need "upgrading". They only need upgrading if there's something wrong with them, they're not suitable for your intended use or you just don't like the look of them!

Better doesn't necessarily mean more reliable or durable nor does it always mean lighter, more aerodynamic, etc...
A light wheel typically trades some structural and aerodynamic properties for the weight loss. More expensive materials can help too but generally they won't be the toughest wheels out there. Aero wheels will not be the lightest and will typically have a fairly low spoke count so durability won't be top of the pile. You're hardly massive so I don't think you need to be overly concerned about strength unless you're on terrible roads but if durability is a priority get a higher spoke count.

You need to decide what you want out of them. If you just want a set of wheels that stay true then I'd be inclined to take Ugo and thecycleclinic's advice. Tthey know what they're taking about and won't steer you far wrong.

cycleclinic

ai_1 lighter wheels can be just as relaible as heavier one it really does depend on a number of things. If the road surface is poor the best way to protect the wheel is larger volume tyres run at lower pressures. It is also helps the rider.

ai_1

thecycleclinic wrote:

ai_1 lighter wheels can be just as relaible as heavier one it really does depend on a number of things. If the road surface is poor the best way to protect the wheel is larger volume tyres run at lower pressures. It is also helps the rider.

They can be but all other factors being equal, (i.e. quality of materials, design and manufacture, tyre volume, road surface, rider weight, etc) a lighter wheel will typically be more susceptible to failure since that weight will generally be saved by reducing rim wall thickness, number of spokes, etc.

wotnoshoeseh

If I were the OP I'd be looking at a set of hand builts from either Ugo or Malcolm (cycle clinic).

As has been mentioned in this post H+SON rims on a decent hub (Shimano 105 or Ultegra, Miche Primato, or if you want to push the boat out Hopes) with a 32 spoke rear, and possibly a 28 on front.
The 105 and Ultegra hubs would mean that you need to go 32 front 32 rear as they are only available in 32H drillings.

Irrespective of final choice, the OP would have a great set of reliable, evenly tensioned wheels at a competitive price.

At ~15 stones I think factory wheels are reaching their limits, with their low spoke counts.

lostboysaint

wayne10244 wrote:

Bearing in mind that I'm 15 stone and come from a lot a mountain biking I got so always going through wheels. That's why I want a good set for my road bike ?

Velocity A23 or H Plus Son Archetype on whatever hubs you fancy. Hopes would be good. Get the 32 hole drilling and use Sapim Race spokes.

I'm slightly heavier than you and my 32 spoke A23s on Miche Primato (with Sapim Race) have been faultless.

trailflow

Wiggle currently have a choice of H Plus Son Achetype builds with 105, Ultegra and Dura Ace hubs.

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/wheels/?ea=4294678285

ugo.santalucia

trailflow wrote:

Wiggle currently have a choice of H Plus Son Achetype builds with 105, Ultegra and Dura Ace hubs.

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/wheels/?ea=4294678285

Yep... last summer on one of my many visits to BLB, the H plus Son distributor in London they asked me if I wanted to build Archetype on Shimano for Wiggle... they wanted 40 wheels per week... :shock: :shock: so I declined, as it did sound like a soul destroying task.

I was told a few months later "someone up north" is building them... and that's all I know. Nice to see they haven't slashed prices and devalued the product