Headset question

Ferrals
Ferrals Posts: 785
edited December 2014 in MTB workshop & tech
I noticed today my headset is a bit knackered, it grinds, it seems to stick and somehow it seems to create a sideways pull on the steering.
Firstly odds on it needing a bit of grease or is it time for a new one? It's a Fsa orbit as sealed cartridge bearing lower, caged bearing upper.

Secondly, how difficult is it to do myself? I've looked at a couple of step by steps and it looks reasonably simple but needs specific tools, not sure if it's worth buying them or taking it to the lbs.

Thirdly if I need a new one, worth spending more on a higher end one or just replacing like with like? It's only lasted 7 months which seems a bit rubbish

Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    You can do a headset without special tools, I do all of my with a hammer and screwdriver to remove and a hammer and block of wood to fit.

    You may find it's just the upper caged bearing, strip, clean and fit new balls (without a cheap and crappy and prone to failure cage, just fill with balls).
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    If you need to replace it and it's 1 and 1/8th, serious bargain.
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380975998594? ... EBIDX%3AIT
    I don't do smileys.

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  • Ferrals
    Ferrals Posts: 785
    It's tapered.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Well then it won't work.
    But it's worth spending on a decent one.

    As in decent Cane Creek or FSA. If you are rich the Chris King or Hope.

    I'm not.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Almost certainly the upper, in which case just replace the balls and use fresh grease.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    With mine it's always the lower that go. More force and crud.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Indeed, but in the OP's case he has a vastly superior lower versus a cheap and cheerful upper, I've seen many uppers wrecked by water washing out cheap OE grease.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Ferrals
    Ferrals Posts: 785
    in the end i decided just to drop it into the lbs - this week is looking like its going to be a hectic one and i would rather spend te weekend riding rather than fixing it! cheers for the thoughts anyway - i'll give it a go myself next time!
  • booldawg
    booldawg Posts: 290
    Depends how 'in there' the old cups are. I've spent several hours on one cup with a hammer, flat blade screwdriver and a gas flame gun!

    Had a to replace one last week; someone at work has the right tools and they were a Godsend - tap tap and they're out.

    I'd definitely buying the extracting tool and a rubber mallet. The headset press is useful but not essential. A couple of blocks of wood, a g-clamp and an extra set of hands will usually yield good results.
    1999 Scott Vail - Work commute
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  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    The worst case is new bearings needed. It's very rare you need to replace the cups as well.
    Bearings can either be got as replacements sold by the headset manufacturer or just take the old one to a bearing shop, they look a bit funny compared to the usual type bearings but they are just standard units.