Do I need a winter bike?

mistertommyt

I'm in a quandary and was hoping to canvas opinions on the matter. I'm looking for arguments for and against.

I have a nice carbon road bike that fits me perfectly and is a joy to ride. It's fitted with mechanical Ultegra and runs hand built Archetypes on Dura Ace 9000 hubs. My preference would be to use this bike all year round and replace worn parts in the spring, but I just wanted to see if there's anything I've not thought of as an argument to retire the frame for the colder months. One thing that I am slightly concerned about is that I think the BB is an aluminum shell. Is this an issue and are there steps I can take to protect it?

I'm training this winter and intend to ride this bike both indoors on the trainer and also at least once every weekend for a long ride, but no commuting.

Sorry if this has been asked before.

Dippydog3

There is absolutely no reason why your bike will be perfectly fine all winter.

However, there is also absolutely no reason why you should not buy yourself a nice winter bike with bigger tyres, disc brakes, mudguards and a dirt forgiving colour scheme.

And a fat bike.
And a mountain bike

NeXXus

I'd rather replace cheap to buy parts on a winter/training bike than Ultegra parts on a good bike.

mistertommyt

NeXXus wrote:

I'd rather replace cheap to buy parts on a winter/training bike than Ultegra parts on a good bike.

That's the thing though. To keep costs down I'd be looking to transfer the bits from this bike to a winter frame and continue to use the wheels anyway. I'm not precious about bike kit, as you can probably tell, but just wanted to check that there were no issues running the frame through winter.

cougie

Of COURSE you need another bike....

Cost up your Ultegra groupset (at the most expensive shop you can find) and you'll see that if you replaced that after winter (ahem..) then its almost the price of a winter bike...

Winter bike - full guards, lights on it. Stouter wider tyres - cheaper groupset - great for cold riding.

Then the best bike can be kept on the turbo ready to go. Much easier to turbo if its all set up. If bikes have to be installed then its one more excuse for not doing a session. (although looking at trainerroad - you prob havent got this problem)

And then you've got two bikes - so if you ever have a mechanical on one - theres no reason to miss a ride.

ai_1

mistertommyt wrote:

I'm in a quandary and was hoping to canvas opinions on the matter. I'm looking for arguments for and against.

I have a nice carbon road bike that fits me perfectly and is a joy to ride. It's fitted with mechanical Ultegra and runs hand built Archetypes on Dura Ace 9000 hubs. My preference would be to use this bike all year round and replace worn parts in the spring, but I just wanted to see if there's anything I've not thought of as an argument to retire the frame for the colder months. One thing that I am slightly concerned about is that I think the BB is an aluminum shell. Is this an issue and are there steps I can take to protect it?

I'm training this winter and intend to ride this bike both indoors on the trainer and also at least once every weekend for a long ride, but no commuting.

Sorry if this has been asked before.

I can see no reason why you should bother riding a bike you like less and spend more money to do so!
If I was you I'd forget the winter bike idea unless you intend to ride a lot in the wet and can't get mudguards to fit which is unlikely. The idea of a nice second bike equipped with dynamo based lighting, disk brakes and full mudguards as a luxury meaning I'd be perfectly equipped for wet and dark rides without any messing about is a nice idea but it would be hard for me to justify. A winter bike solely for the purpose of being equipped with cheaper parts on the basis they might get worn out quicker is a bit daft to my mind. Surely the only parts at real risk are cassette, chain, chainrings and wheel rims (the later is probably only an issue if you're in an urban area requiring lots of braking). If you use very expensive wheels and you brake a lot then you could consider a cheap winter set. Cassettes are not absurdly expensive unless you use something exotic. If you do and you're worried then just switch in a cheaper alternative in winter - replace your 11 speed Dura-Ace casstette for a 105 item. Chainrings? Okay they're a bit expensive to replace but is there really any need? I would say not. Even replacing all of these you'll be cheaper than a budget new bike and you'll still be able tio ride your best one albeit with a couple of tweaks.

mistertommyt

Ai_1 wrote:

mistertommyt wrote:

I'm in a quandary and was hoping to canvas opinions on the matter. I'm looking for arguments for and against.

I have a nice carbon road bike that fits me perfectly and is a joy to ride. It's fitted with mechanical Ultegra and runs hand built Archetypes on Dura Ace 9000 hubs. My preference would be to use this bike all year round and replace worn parts in the spring, but I just wanted to see if there's anything I've not thought of as an argument to retire the frame for the colder months. One thing that I am slightly concerned about is that I think the BB is an aluminum shell. Is this an issue and are there steps I can take to protect it?

I'm training this winter and intend to ride this bike both indoors on the trainer and also at least once every weekend for a long ride, but no commuting.

Sorry if this has been asked before.

I can see no reason why you should bother riding a bike you like less and spend more money to do so!
If I was you I'd forget the winter bike idea unless you intend to ride a lot in the wet and can't get mudguards to fit which is unlikely. The idea of a nice second bike equipped with dynamo based lighting, disk brakes and full mudguards as a luxury meaning I'd be perfectly equipped for wet and dark rides without any messing about is a nice idea but it would be hard for me to justify. A winter bike solely for the purpose of being equipped with cheaper parts on the basis they might get worn out quicker is a bit daft to my mind. Surely the only parts at real risk are cassette, chain, chainrings and wheel rims (the later is probably only an issue if you're in an urban area requiring lots of braking). If you use very expensive wheels and you brake a lot then you could consider a cheap winter set. Cassettes are not absurdly expensive unless you use something exotic. If you do and you're worried then just switch in a cheaper alternative in winter - replace your 11 speed Dura-Ace casstette for a 105 item. Chainrings? Okay they're a bit expensive to replace but is there really any need? I would say not. Even replacing all of these you'll be cheaper than a budget new bike and you'll still be able tio ride your best one albeit with a couple of tweaks.

Basically this sums up my feelings.

Cheers all.

ugo.santalucia

If you get a summer bike with disc brakes, you don't need a winter bike, just some tougher tyres and keep up the maintenance... if you don't then you either get some cheap wheels for winter or you get a winter bike

mistertommyt

ugo.santalucia wrote:

If you get a summer bike with disc brakes, you don't need a winter bike, just some tougher tyres and keep up the maintenance... if you don't then you either get some cheap wheels for winter or you get a winter bike

This will definitely be a consideration next time around. Discs and electronic shifting.
#thefuture

mistertommyt

Although, that brings me to another point regarding wheels. And since you built them, there's no better person to ask.

My thinking is to ride them through winter and then rebuild the hubs on to new rims next year, assuming I wear through them as I expect to. Daft? I'm right in thinking that in terms of being weather proof, the DA9000's are good all year round hubs?

stueys

I run a winter bike for a few reasons;
1) Its a lot more comfortable riding around on 28 tyres and big mudguards. I stay a lot dryer and cleaner, as does the bike. Plus it has a bit more grip
2) it's a lot cheaper to drop an alu frame with nice cheap (Rival) groupset then drop my expensive carbon everything with dura ace bike. The chances of coming off in winter are a lot higher than summer I think
3) Some of the winter country roads and general sludge I ride through I genuinely don't mind being on my winter bike, I'd cringe inside on my nice bike

Plus there is something quite nice about training on a winter, heavier bike then switching back to the light one when the sun comes out. Equally I quite like having an Alu bike that I can throw in the boot when we go on family holiday and not worry too much about. I wouldn't be quite as cavalier with my Cervelo.

Is it needed, definitely not. Is it nice, yep

ugo.santalucia

mistertommyt wrote:

I'm right in thinking that in terms of being weather proof, the DA9000's are good all year round hubs?

You are correct

crikey

If you're only riding once a week, a winter bike isn't worth it. Factor in the days when you'll not go out because it's raining, or a bit windy, or there's a chance of snow, or you have to go shopping and it's even less of a good idea.

If, on the other hand you decide that you actually like cycling, a winter bike would be a good idea.

jameses

No reason a carbon frame shouldn't be ridden through the winter, just take things a bit slower through the corners and on the descents and you're unlikely to have any problems As others have said, a cheaper set of wheels/tyres/cassette is a good idea to avoid premature wear on your good kit. Wider tyres would be good if you can fit them, but mudguards are a must!

Alternatively, get a winter bike that gives you something a bit different to the summer bike. Go for something with a steel frame, clearance for 28/30mm tyres, discs, mounts for proper mudguards and a rack and you've got yourself a very versatile machine, good for winter training, light touring and gravel/trail riding.

Bordersroadie

cougie wrote:

Of COURSE you need another bike....

This is absolutely the correct answer.

I mean, what a daft question! N+1, N+1, N+1, N+1. . . . .

Undertones

NeXXus wrote:

I'd rather replace cheap to buy parts on a winter/training bike than Ultegra parts on a good bike.

I thought that too, but since I'd have to buy the winter bike I'd still be losing money for at least 10 years.

northpole

mistertommyt wrote:

I'm in a quandary and was hoping to canvas opinions on the matter. I'm looking for arguments for and against.

I have a nice carbon road bike that fits me perfectly and is a joy to ride. It's fitted with mechanical Ultegra and runs hand built Archetypes on Dura Ace 9000 hubs. My preference would be to use this bike all year round and replace worn parts in the spring, but I just wanted to see if there's anything I've not thought of as an argument to retire the frame for the colder months. One thing that I am slightly concerned about is that I think the BB is an aluminum shell. Is this an issue and are there steps I can take to protect it?

I'm training this winter and intend to ride this bike both indoors on the trainer and also at least once every weekend for a long ride, but no commuting.

Sorry if this has been asked before.

No need for a separate winter bike IMO - especially in this country when it can be very difficult to decide when the seasons properly change!

I think what you are proposing is completely sound. All I would add is a set of SKS Race Blades and remember to keep the chain & cassette reasonably clean and well lubed after each ride. Also keep an eye on the pad surfaces to check for metal swarf which can really grind the rims. With that simple approach I don't see why you should have to replace rims for at least 2 or 3 years. As I've mentioned several times before on here, I'm still riding on my Roubaix Pro with DA 7800 series wheels from 2006 - it started out as my good bike and I bought a new toy in 2010 but continue to use the Roubaix for my daily commute into central London. The hubs roll great, the rims are WELL worn! but hey, they owe me nothing and still run true. People think too much about summer/ winter bikes IMO!!

Peter

Dippydog3

Bottom line is that on a purely financial basis winter bikes are a bad choice. It is cheaper to swap components or live with the wear on your summer bike.

Money aside, winter bikes create variety and fun.

londoncommuter

As mentioned by Stueys, don't ignore the additional chance of an off in the winter. Ice when it gets worse and all that mulchy crap on the corners at the moment. Obviously it's safer to take it easy and not crash but however careful you are the chances of even a slow speed scrape on the tarmac go up. Suppose you might not be as prissy about getting scratches on your shifters.

scott_w1987

I use my winter bike even if it's wet in summer, purely because it's there and I want to keep my better bike running flawless! I did have my sora caad8 before I built my carbon tubbed 6700 caad9, so it made perfect sense for me.

The amount of water and rubbish on the roads and constant washing after every ride slowly turns a smooth running bike to shit, no matter how much you look after it. Bottom brakets, mechs, chains, cassettes, jockey wheels, pedals, brakes, cables, hubs, rims all get abused so much more over winter. But then I am riding three or four 40ish mile rides a week at night during the week and during the day at the weekend...
My good bike is on the turbo trainer from October until march, although I avoid using it unless really I have to!

Plus when the good bike comes back out it feels so much smoother and faster!

If I wasn't so anal I could probably cope with one outdoor ride a week if the roads were almost dry.

mistertommyt

crikey wrote:

If you're only riding once a week, a winter bike isn't worth it. Factor in the days when you'll not go out because it's raining, or a bit windy, or there's a chance of snow, or you have to go shopping and it's even less of a good idea.

If, on the other hand you decide that you actually like cycling, a winter bike would be a good idea.

I did 7 hours in z2 on Sunday (100 miles) where the weather fluctuated between wet and very wet. I covered 240 miles last week, split between my commute on the fixed, turbo and Sunday ride, so I think it's fair to say I enjoy my cycling.

mistertommyt

londoncommuter wrote:

As mentioned by Stueys, don't ignore the additional chance of an off in the winter. Ice when it gets worse and all that mulchy crap on the corners at the moment. Obviously it's safer to take it easy and not crash but however careful you are the chances of even a slow speed scrape on the tarmac go up. Suppose you might not be as prissy about getting scratches on your shifters.

All of my road miles are slow and steady at the moment, so little concern about an off. If there's ice on the road I hit the turbo.

cycleclinic

My own winter bike until the equilibrium disc is ready is a steel frame built up with Campagnolo Veloce although I use a cheaper miche cassette and KMC chain. All the bits are cheap to replace. Mudguards of course and on sundays 90 miler which was very wet I was less wet than I would have been without the guards. I can also run 25mm tures under the guards, which I need as the tyre are gator skin hardshells which are unforgiving. Rim wear is an issue though hense soft brake pads.

That to me is a winter bike. A dynamo hub would be nice as I ride alot in the dark but modern lights are very good as well.

So in short a winter bike does not have flashy kit can take full length guards with 25mm tyre or wider and I think it whould have a long wheelbase for predictable handling. I changed the fork on mine for one with more curved fork blade which has made it more stable. Useful when the roads a slippy. A winter bike is more a wet weather bike really but in reality I only use when it really wet and cold and I want to keep the cold road spary of me.

Likewise the perfect wet weather hubs are Miche RG"/Primato or Ultegra. While DA hubs don't mind water they are expensive and like all shimano hubs neglet the maintance at your peril and the more you submerge the hub in water (I ride through floods not around them) the shorter the service intervals.

coulddobetter

Do you have an open top sports car for summer and a land rover for winter ? No ...then use the bike you have.

mistertommyt

thecycleclinic wrote:

My own winter bike until the equilibrium disc is ready is a steel frame built up with Campagnolo Veloce although I use a cheaper miche cassette and KMC chain. All the bits are cheap to replace. Mudguards of course and on sundays 90 miler which was very wet I was less wet than I would have been without the guards. I can also run 25mm tures under the guards, which I need as the tyre are gator skin hardshells which are unforgiving. Rim wear is an issue though hense soft brake pads.

That to me is a winter bike. A dynamo hub would be nice as I ride alot in the dark but modern lights are very good as well.

So in short a winter bike does not have flashy kit can take full length guards with 25mm tyre or wider and I think it whould have a long wheelbase for predictable handling. I changed the fork on mine for one with more curved fork blade which has made it more stable. Useful when the roads a slippy. A winter bike is more a wet weather bike really but in reality I only use when it really wet and cold and I want to keep the cold road spary of me.

Likewise the perfect wet weather hubs are Miche RG"/Primato or Ultegra. While DA hubs don't mind water they are expensive and like all shimano hubs neglet the maintance at your peril and the more you submerge the hub in water (I ride through floods not around them) the shorter the service intervals.

As you say, Sunday was wet and it was on that ride that I was thinking about a winter bike. I don't run guards and I don't think they'd have kept me any drier anyway. It was so wet that I was essentially riding in a wet suit, but at least I was warm. Handling is not an issue and I already run 25's on wide profile rims all year round.

I'm interested in the hub comments. Are Ultegra hubs better sealed for wet weather than the DA I run? I check they're running smooth every couple of weeks and will re grease every couple of months during the winter. This should ensure they're ok, no?

mistertommyt

Anyway, a good spread of opinions, so thank you to everyone for their comments and opinions. Much appreciated.

It looks like I'll be sticking to my plan of riding my good bike all year round, which makes me happy and hopefully it'll be as warm this winter as it was last year.

Safe riding all.

MichaelW

coulddobetter wrote:

Do you have an open top sports car for summer and a land rover for winter ? No ...then use the bike you have.

Most drivers buy sensible or sporty family hatchbacks for the commute.
The cycling equiv is the "winter trainer".
A std racebike is not a sensible all-rounder
I prefer to think of a "bike" and a "summer bike".

mm1

MichaelW wrote:

I prefer to think of a "bike" and a "summer bike".

Always used to think in terms of "best" bike and training bike. The idea was to keep the best bike immaculate and to eke out the life of worn bits (chainrings etc) on the hack. Back in the day the hack could be pretty basic, but looking around at the start of the average winter clubrun this no longer seems to be the fashion.

Bordersroadie

In Scotland they're just called dry bikes and wet bikes. I'll let you work out the percentage that each gets used. Needless to say I have a pretty nice wet bike or two.

ai_1

mistertommyt wrote:

...As you say, Sunday was wet and it was on that ride that I was thinking about a winter bike. I don't run guards and I don't think they'd have kept me any drier anyway. It was so wet that I was essentially riding in a wet suit, but at least I was warm....

Mudguards don't protect you from the rain itself but where I find they make a big difference is in greatly reducing/eliminating road spray hitting your feet, face and back. I find the small amount of dirty spray that typically comes off the top of the front wheel and hits your face quite annoying and unpleasant. The mudguards eliminate that completely. They also hugely reduce spray hitting your feet, especially when you hit any standing water. That eliminates any water getting in through the bottom of overshoes and makes a big difference to comfort and warmth.
The other benefit of mudguards is when they're on your riding buddy's bike! I don't know about you but I hate drafting in the rain unless the bike in front has a decent rear mudguard.
You still get wet with mudguards but it's clean water and it's all from above.

passout

'Need' - no. 'Want' - probably.

Winter bikes do make sense in my view, 'if' they are considerably cheaper than your summer bike & of course you need to consider mudguards. For me the reasons are mainly economic & revolve around wear & tear. Personally i wouldn't bother with discs. I'd a cheap alu bike and stick crud mudguards - some sub 500 quid deals at planet x at the mo (with 20% off voucher mentioned on here). Ribble have some good deals on winter triners. I got a GTR series 4 from PBK for 360 the other day. Even better - stick all you old parts on a used frame, if you have a shed full of bits.