First Track Bike

the_algebraist

Hi there,

I've been to 5-6 track sessions and raced at University championships and I'm hoping to get a place at Derby track league. I've always hired or used the University Rayleigh Equipes.

I've raced on the road for about 3 years (with varying degrees of success/fitness) and would like to have a crack on the track.

I was wondering whether I could get a reasonable bike for £300-£600 (second hand) and not be really held back by it. And any advice generally would be greatly appreciated.

jimmythecuckoo

http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/product ... road-bikes

I have this one. Bargain... easy to take the brakes off as well.

Omar Little

the_algebraist wrote:

I was wondering whether I could get a reasonable bike for £300-£600 (second hand) and not be really held back by it. And any advice generally would be greatly appreciated.

You can get a Dolan Pre Cursa new for £450 - that will leave you a bit of your budget left over for an extra chainring and sprocket and some tools like a chainwhip.

It is proper track bike with geometry suitable for the track (alot of fixed wheel bikes might be labelled as track but they are not particularly suited for it in terms of the fork rake, height of the bb and crank length) . There are people racing them at A grade level in existing track leagues so while they might be inexpensive they can be capable bikes in the right hands.

the_algebraist

Omar, cheers for that, I have seen those Dolan Per Cursas, it's good to know they're worth the cash, its just whether i can find it! Is there anything I should look for if I end up going second hand?

imposter2.0

jimmythecuckoo wrote:

http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/product ... road-bikes

I have this one. Bargain... easy to take the brakes off as well.

I'd be interested to know which velodrome lets you ride that..?

the_algebraist

also, whats it ride like? how much does it flex under stress? Looks very pretty though, i'd have one for getting about if i didn't live in sheffield

Omar Little

the_algebraist wrote:

Omar, cheers for that, I have seen those Dolan Per Cursas, it's good to know they're worth the cash, its just whether i can find it! Is there anything I should look for if I end up going second hand?

Proper track bikes have higher BBs than road orientated fixed wheels. Something like 280mm drop, they'll have shorter cranks too like 165mm rather than 170mm+ (however pursuiters tend to use longer cranks), they also have steeper head tube angles, shorter wheelbases, no brakes or braze ons.

For second hand - then Dolan Pre Cursa, Giant Omnium, Moda Fresco or Forte, Hoy Fiorenzuola, Planet X Pro Carbon should all be in your price range - some of them might even be in budget new if you shop around and pick one up in a sale.

the_algebraist

Cheers Omar, I was wondering about the Crank arm length, I ride 172.5mm on the road so 165 for track? I saw the Moda Fresco about, they seem to come with an Alu fork, but the trade up seems to be the wheels...

It either a new Dolan Pre Cursa (is it worth upgrading to the navigators off the dolan site, and i've also seen them on Graham Weighs site with a wheel set i've never heard of) or Moda Fresco. I also like the look of the Giant Omnium but people don't seem to sell them on.

Paul 8v

I can recommended the Pre cursa, as Omar said that is a proper track bike as opposed to a "fixie" It will be the right spec to use at Velodromes and is decent enough to upgrade. If you spec it with the winter fork you can also run a front brake for road duties

w.jenkins

This may be of interest if you're a 54cm frame
http://www.lfgss.com/conversations/259129/

napoleond

Dolan pre Cursa is pretty much a no brainer.

jscl

Moda Fresco, all the way!

http://www.moda-bikes.com/portfolioentry/fresco/

gsk82

I've just done my first session at the York outdoor velodrome having previously had a few sessions at other velodromes. If i keep enjoying it as much i'll be looking for a track bike in the next couple of months but don't know what is important in a track bike.

So does anyone have any tips? Should i be looking at carbon or aluminium? Are tubs the way to go? Will deep sections make a big difference? Is the Planet X pro carbon a bargain?

I don't really have a budget in mind at the minute other than under £1,000. I's just like some general advice so when i'm ready to buy i'm not doing it blind.

Cheers

hughgabriel

Having recently bought my first track bike from the classifieds on here, my thoughts.
Carbon doesn't seem to give the benefits on the track that it does on the road.
Tubs are faster and are supposedly safer if you puncture on the banking - risk of puncturing seems pretty low though, and you can get decent track wheels which take clinchers, so obviously not essential.
Planet X Pro does seem a bit of a bargain compared to spec'ing a bike similarly on other builders websites.
If you're buying a second hand bike - check out all the components before deciding to buy and give it a really thorough going over when you get it. I found:
The threaded part of the star nut was 80% sheared from over tightening
The bars are road bars - not really a problem.
The tyres are road/triple compound - fine for an outdoor track, slippery as you like at LVVP (unfortunately found this only when I tried it ride it there as they weren't multi-colour/obviously 3 compound!)

Paul 8v

They don't normally let you ride with coloured tyres there!

hughgabriel

Paul 8v wrote:

They don't normally let you ride with coloured tyres there!

That was meant to be weren't obviously coloured /triple compound.

Paul 8v

Ah sorry I get you. I just got some cheap Vittoria Diamante 22mm things from planet x, they seem to be ok

hughgabriel

Paul 8v wrote:

Ah sorry I get you. I just got some cheap Vittoria Diamante 22mm things from planet x, they seem to be ok

Yes I've got some Diamante Pro Pistas now from Wiggle, hadn't spotted the cheaper variant on Planet X otherwise I would have got them. Got a Skills Session at LVVP on Sunday morning so will give them a go then,

LeighM

I'm working through the accreditation process at Derby and I'm starting to look out for my first track bike. From what I've seen, the Planet X Pro Carbon is at the top of my list, a lot of bike for £1k, inc carbon tubs.

http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/CBPXPCLTD/ ... track-bike

izza

Elite bikes are local to Derby and offer a great service.

Price depends on what level of personalisation you want.

matudavey

Could I ask for some thoughts on the main considerations for a track bike?

I've got a 2010 langster I was hoping to convert to give track a go (outdoor track at Welwyn - I've heard the rules are not as strict as for indoor tracks). I know these are probably trivial issues for a newbie, but I like to tinker and understand what is considered optimal if I do need to buy parts.

- Wheels (I'll be building them);

- I assume the trend is to stay with deep and narrow rims and tyres for aerodynamics (not wider rims like road)? - What are the priorities with stiffness, aerodynamics and weight for track? (for rim/spoke choices) - Are tubulars considered best? I've been wanting to build some for a while anyway! - any rim recommendations?

- Chainset/BB

- Currently have a 172.5 mm Force crankset (GXP). I'd like to move back to 165 mm cranks, though the original Sugino Zen Messenger cranks are square taper. Are square taper BBs old hat or not for track? - Is 42/14 or 13 a good place to start?

- Finally any tips for a more suitable position? (frame is more road geometry). I've got plenty of reach in the current set up, so saddle forward and a longer stem with a larger drop?

Thanks for your help

Omar Little

Stiffness and aerodynamics. Weight isnt particularly important (within reason)

Tubulars are considered best although there are some nice clinchers too - vittoria do a pista version of their diamante tyre, very supple and light. - i use clinchers but if i was getting new wheels id go down the tub route.

Square tapers are still common on the track, campag pista, sugino, miche are all still using square taper, dura ace has octalink.

For gearing, i'd go with a bigger chainring. 48X16 is a similar ratio to 42x14, but its a bit more versatile should you want to go bigger. Its also more efficient (in terms of friction) to have for a bigger cog on the back, if its the same gear ratio. Although despite saying that gearing choice is quite individual and it also varies between racing outdoors and indoors, if you already have the 42 chainring it would be a good place to start off, most people end up building up a collection of sprockets and chainrings in their search for the elusive optimum gearing for each event!