wheel dilemma

Paul Stumpy FSR
Paul Stumpy FSR Posts: 59
edited November 2014 in Road buying advice
Hi, another wheelset dilemma, sorry.
I’m looking at getting some new lighter/stronger wheels for my 2014 Cube Agree race. I want something lighter than the current mavic aksiums.
I was looking at either the Ksyriums SLS’s or the Fulcrum Racing Zero’s. Both go for roughly the same price (£710-20) The Fulcrums are about 50g heavier and don’t come with tyres but have ceramic bearings.
Does anyone have any experience of either of these or can recommend something else?
Thanks
Paul

Comments

  • DeVlaeminck
    DeVlaeminck Posts: 9,104
    I just bought myself a set of wheels recently and for me the factory wheels top end I looked at were the zeros, Shamals and Shimano C24. For all those you can get them at least £100 cheaper than you quote so unless you have a particular reason for using one supplier you needn't pay at much. There are also very similar equivalents in all those wheels a fair bit cheaper for about 50gs extra weight.
    [Castle Donington Ladies FC - going up in '22]
  • Just read up on the C24's and they sounds great and can be had for £575 on wiggle! tempting! :)
  • Paul - Know that there are small, often insignificant differences in the ride characteristics but big, quite significant differences in the price within the alloy wheel lines you mentioned that are upgrades over the stock wheels that come on most bikes. For example Fulcrum Racing Zeros are essentially the same wheel and ride the same as Fulcrum Racing 3 for about 2x the price (but both are noticeably better than the Racing 5 or 7 that come stock). Same goes for Campy Shamal vs. Zonda, Mavic Ksyrium SLR vs. SLS, and Shimano DA C24 vs RS81 24. Yes, there may be some differences in hub or spoke materials or some extra rim milling here and there that may end up in 50-100g more or less weight but that amount makes no discernible difference in how they ride. Of course there are cosmetic or brand differences within an alloy upgrade line that some are willing to pay for.

    There are however, big differences between the wheel lines you mentioned and others in this price range. For example, some wheel lines are laterally stiffer and better suited to heavier riders while others are more compliant/comfortable which would be better suited to sportive or endurance riders. Aerodynamic and acceleration differences often exist between upgrade wheel lines. Getting the right wheel for you in this category depends little on the claimed wheel weight and a lot on what kind of riding you do and what you want from your new wheels along with your budget and a few other factors.

    I recently posted a comparative review and set of recommendations for choosing between upgrade wheels under $1000, £700, €900 from a dozen companies if you want to get into all of this in more detail.

    There will likely be others along to recommend to you one wheel or another or a pre-built or custom-built wheelset based on their own experience or preferences but I suggest you get clear on your riding characteristics and upgrade objectives before you choose. Steve
  • ilm_zero7
    ilm_zero7 Posts: 2,213
    dont think I can agree with you there - having owned fulcrum 7's, 3' 1' and Shamals - the latter being amazing wheels - bulletproof and the CULT hubs and bearings are staggering
    http://veloviewer.com/SigImage.php?a=3370a&r=3&c=5&u=M&g=p&f=abcdefghij&z=a.png
    Wiliers: Cento Uno/Superleggera R and Zero 7. Bianchi Infinito CV and Oltre XR2
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    ceramic bearings are staggeringly expensive. While I kind of of like them mostly because I am a tart, they are not going to make you faster. They may spin smoothly but when you measure the power comsumption asgainst that standard steel bearings in a Campagnolo hub then you will realise that it is placebo except for serious time trialers.

    For the OP what do you mean by stronger. This is a misused term with wheels. Do you want stiffer, of course you do and do you want longer spoke life probably yes too unless the askiums have never broken a spoke for you. While many wheels will be stiffer and therefore give longer spoke life there are trade offs between low weight and lateral stiffness. All wheels ride the same mostly. Some complain about road buzz from wheels with aluminum spokes but good tyre choice and appropriate pressure can resolve this.

    If you want a better ride then pick a wheel with a wide rim but the factory option for this are very limtied indeed. If you want aerodyncamics then you need a lower spoke count and a aero profile on the rim. Many of the shallow factory offerings are not so good in this regard (they can't be due to the rim shape), if you want low weight then C24 or Shamal's do that well but light can be built for less. If you want long spoke life well the wheel stiffness and spoke count need to tailored to an extent to you.

    The two wheels you are looking at are both equivelent to each other and will perform well. £700 though can buy you alot of performance if you think out side the box.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • Hi guys, thanks for all your help and advice.
    I'm a light rider. 5f10 and 65kg so i haven't had a problem with spokes or wheels buckling. I basically wanted something lighter to help me up the hills, not that i'm dreadful, but will also be a bit more free rolling on the flat.
    I've just purchased the C24's from Wiggle so hopefully see some new PB's on the climbs round me soon.
    thanks again
    Paul
  • DeVlaeminck
    DeVlaeminck Posts: 9,104
    At the price you got them I think that's a good buy - I tend to agree with cycleclinic that at full price or anywhere near it all these wheels are probably too much and bring some pretty pimp custom built wheels into play. I went for Racing Zeros in the end just because I'm a bit heavier than you and got a good deal on them but a mate races at a reasonable level (well 2nd cat) on C24s and rates them - he's quite small but a good sprinter.
    [Castle Donington Ladies FC - going up in '22]
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    I seriously doubt you will actually be able to put any new PB's on strava segments down to the wheels. You the rider have to do the work. Still enjoy the wheels, just watch the brake track at this time of year.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • paulmon
    paulmon Posts: 315
    I seriously doubt you will actually be able to put any new PB's on strava segments down to the wheels. You the rider have to do the work. Still enjoy the wheels, just watch the brake track at this time of year.

    Also get some less abrasive pads if you don't already have them.
  • Hi guys, thanks for all your help and advice.
    I'm a light rider. 5f10 and 65kg so i haven't had a problem with spokes or wheels buckling. I basically wanted something lighter to help me up the hills, not that i'm dreadful, but will also be a bit more free rolling on the flat.
    I've just purchased the C24's from Wiggle so hopefully see some new PB's on the climbs round me soon.
    thanks again
    Paul

    At your weight, you should already be amazing uphill... if you have a VAM of less than 1000 mt/h on a long climb (> 20 min) and less than 1200 on a short one (5-10 min) then you need to train harder, 'cause you can do better. Lighter wheels can contribute 2-3% tops, but if you have to gain 10-20%, training is the key
    left the forum March 2023