Mudguards

pinno
pinno Posts: 51,366
edited September 2017 in Workshop
I'll take back what I said about SKS Raceblade longs. There was a thread about an alternative but I can't seem to find it.

Coming down a hill today at 30+ in twilight, the rear popped off the clip (again) over a bump/pothole and got caught and then dragged forward under the brake caliper and added to a bit of braking, locked the rear wheel.
I stayed on thank f*** and no damage to bike or wheels but decided to ditch them. The problem was that the clearance (or lack of) meant that dirt caught under the plastic clip that mounts to the metal clip, acted as an abrasive and wore it away.

I would like:
1. Mudguards that allow for 25mm tyres
2. Long one's like the SKS's
3. One's that don't have to be fitted to the skewer (storage limitations, you know; N+1+kiddie stuff which is a close to infinite as you can get), fed up fiddling with them every time I go out on the bike.

Cheers
seanoconn - gruagach craic!
«13

Comments

  • Had the exact same problem a few weeks ago. Came to an abrupt halt at the front of the group doing about 25mph. The guard was abandoned and I'm using Roadracers now. SKS have stopped selling the Longs, I'd guess to address some of the problems with them. Let's hope they read this forum!
  • Wow exact same thing has happened to mine yesterday which I bought 2nd hand on here and just reckoned it was cause they are old and the clip on the rear one had worn. For folks who don't have the complication of it being a 2nd hand purchase and no receipt its maybe worth contacting SKS as from what I've heard they have good CS and if they know this is an issue ...

    OP it looks like Cruds may be you only option to get fitting without involving skewers and full coverage but as to never having to fiddle with them well that can be a bit hit and miss. I had a set that were hassle free for about 6 months but got caked in thick sludgy mud one day and I had to remove and clean then - could never get them to run clear again which is why I went over to Raceblade longs. The Cruds worked fine for me with 25mm GP4ks, Michelin Pro4 Endurance and Open Pave's on a Secteur.
  • mlgt
    mlgt Posts: 366
    Glad it didn't cause an accident and you were able to come to a stop.

    I had some issues with the set up and my front got caught under the front break due to toe overlap.
    Since then I have removed the front and kept the rear only which has been great. Although in such weather I do rinse down the brakes as it collects a lot of crud there.

    CS from SKS is good. I emailed them and got a replacement front clip and was told if I had anymore issues, they would reissue a set for me. But as said due to overlap. I haven't put the fronts back on for now and started using my overshoes more.
    N2 - SW1

    Canyon Endurace 9.0
  • I just fixed mine by bending the little grey tab on the guard so it broke away and the securing with one of the longer screws and nut from Cruds. It seems secure but time will tell ...

    I also just emailed SKS to ask if I could buy a replacement rear just the black plastic bit so ...
  • Bobbinogs
    Bobbinogs Posts: 4,841
    Yeah, 'tis a common fault. A few at my club have also removed the grey clip and use a couple of well placed cable ties instead. The standard Raceblades are a good alternative but benefit from a homemade flap, which looks a bit gash.
  • craker
    craker Posts: 1,739
    Just fitted some Roadracers after poor experience with raceblades (clip that attaches rear guard to the brake bolt is the latest - looks like it's fatigued after 18 months or so).

    First ride on the road racers this morning - they are flimsy in comparison and a tight fit with 25mm Continentals. Don't seem to have rubbed much though, so I'm happy enough for now.
  • Bobbinogs
    Bobbinogs Posts: 4,841
    craker wrote:
    ... a tight fit with 25mm Continentals. Don't seem to have rubbed much though...

    The problem I found is that many of my rural roads will have leaves and mud and anything like that just meant frequent stops at the side of the road picking crud out of the guard...maybe that's why they are branded thus :)
  • janwal
    janwal Posts: 489
    Try vavert mudgaurds . https://www.google.co.uk/webhp?sourceid ... 0mudguards
    I've had the same set on 3 bikes with no problems.A very strong mudguard. Also discrete,being black they blend in very well against the tyres . I ran 25's on my Ti bike and were a close fit.They are now on my new Domane disc and have plenty more clearance so I may go to 28's for winter.
  • pinno
    pinno Posts: 51,366
    craker wrote:
    Just fitted some Roadracers after poor experience with raceblades (clip that attaches rear guard to the brake bolt is the latest - looks like it's fatigued after 18 months or so).

    First ride on the road racers this morning - they are flimsy in comparison and a tight fit with 25mm Continentals. Don't seem to have rubbed much though, so I'm happy enough for now.

    Hmmm...the front of the rear; how does it attach to the frame?

    $_12.JPG
    seanoconn - gruagach craic!
  • fudgey
    fudgey Posts: 854
    Hmm had my first ride on sunday with my new raceblade longs fitted.

    Only issues i have to report are at 30+mph the front is all over the place wobbling about (didnt notice what the rear was doing) and that my feet hit them if i turned the wheel ie at junctions etc.

    I am now thinking about adding some loctite to the clamping screws by the skewers and maybe riveting the black plastic quick release bits to the brackets...
    My winter bike is exactly the same as my summer bike,,, but dirty...
  • pinno
    pinno Posts: 51,366
    I had thought of riveting the crudcatchers to the brackets but feared the plastic would disintegrate.
    If you try that, post an update.

    On the Raceblade longs, the problem I found with the set up was that due to the metal caliper mounts being separate, it was hard to get them even at the same time as trying to tighten the caliper bolt. Even using a 2nd star washer (for want of a better description) didn't make a difference.
    seanoconn - gruagach craic!
  • craker wrote:
    Just fitted some Roadracers after poor experience with raceblades (clip that attaches rear guard to the brake bolt is the latest - looks like it's fatigued after 18 months or so).

    First ride on the road racers this morning - they are flimsy in comparison and a tight fit with 25mm Continentals. Don't seem to have rubbed much though, so I'm happy enough for now.

    Hmmm...the front of the rear; how does it attach to the frame?

    $_12.JPG

    You loop one of the cable ties in the kit through the hole in the front part of the rear and then round the seat tube (fit heli tape to protect seat tube from abrasion first!). Its one of the more secure fittings and that part that guards the front mech is worth (way more than) its weight in gold! There's a good video on the Crud website that shows fitting step by step.
  • fudgey
    fudgey Posts: 854
    I had thought of riveting the crudcatchers to the brackets but feared the plastic would disintegrate.
    If you try that, post an update.

    On the Raceblade longs, the problem I found with the set up was that due to the metal caliper mounts being separate, it was hard to get them even at the same time as trying to tighten the caliper bolt. Even using a 2nd star washer (for want of a better description) didn't make a difference.

    how did you fit them? i fitted the brackets first with no guard attached, i had no trouble lining them up. then fitted the guard onto the brackets, then the skewer ends, then adjusted.

    image_zpscda7e953.jpg
    My winter bike is exactly the same as my summer bike,,, but dirty...
  • Bobbinogs
    Bobbinogs Posts: 4,841
    Fudgey wrote:
    Hmm had my first ride on sunday with my new raceblade longs fitted.

    Only issues i have to report are at 30+mph the front is all over the place wobbling about...

    yeah, that's why I don't bother with the small flap right on the front, it does feck all as the spinning water has all been dumped at the brake bridge anyway :)
  • fudgey
    fudgey Posts: 854
    Hi Robin, it was actually the rear part of the front that was moving around a lot. Maybe it just needs adjusting, but on bumpy ground it was moving/catching the tyre too.
    My winter bike is exactly the same as my summer bike,,, but dirty...
  • pinno
    pinno Posts: 51,366
    Fudgey wrote:
    I had thought...difference.

    how did you fit them? i fitted the brackets first with no guard attached, i had no trouble lining them up. then fitted the guard onto the brackets, then the skewer ends, then adjusted.

    Just like that ^.

    image_zpscda7e953.jpg

    Nice bike but I wouldn't take that out in the cold and rain though, the carbon fibre might dissolve.
    seanoconn - gruagach craic!
  • fudgey
    fudgey Posts: 854
    Ha, thanks bud - i doubt it tho. Cycled in to work this morning, i didnt spend all that on the bike just to leave it tucked up in the garage!
    I do have a MTB for when the weather is really gash tho.

    had a little look at how they could be riveted on, looks doable but will probably need to use washers
    My winter bike is exactly the same as my summer bike,,, but dirty...
  • pinno
    pinno Posts: 51,366
    Fudgey wrote:
    Ha, thanks bud - i doubt it tho. Cycled in to work this morning, i didnt spend all that on the bike just to leave it tucked up in the garage!
    I do have a MTB for when the weather is really gash tho.

    had a little look at how they could be riveted on, looks doable but will probably need to use washers

    Make sure you rivet them upwards :wink:
    seanoconn - gruagach craic!
  • fudgey
    fudgey Posts: 854
    Yes indeed.
    Not had chance to look really yet but i got home ok tonight

    We have some alloy rivets at work that when crushed have kind of 3 prongs that splay out. Those should do the trick. Just look rubbish.
    Function over form and all that...
    My winter bike is exactly the same as my summer bike,,, but dirty...
  • pinno
    pinno Posts: 51,366
    Fudgey wrote:
    Yes indeed.
    Not had chance to look really yet but i got home ok tonight

    We have some alloy rivets at work that when crushed have kind of 3 prongs that splay out. Those should do the trick. Just look rubbish.
    Function over form and all that...

    ...but better than a bent nail.
    seanoconn - gruagach craic!
  • fudgey
    fudgey Posts: 854
    There is that lol.
    My winter bike is exactly the same as my summer bike,,, but dirty...
  • pinno
    pinno Posts: 51,366
    Mudguard update.

    I went back to the place where the mudguard got slung after jamming the back wheel. I intended to dispose of it properly but got thinking. I thought 'Why don't I take the plunge with the pop riveter?' after all, nothing to loose and looking at buying another pair...

    First step, saw the end off the mudguard and the offending clip as I thought it was too flimsy to rivet. Instead of removing the whole insert and clip, decided to keep a bit of it to add a bit of stength,

    40f081eedde55a2128302425a7f8c594.jpg

    ...and then drill a hole in it. This was simple as there is a little u shaped indent on the underside which meant there was no guessing/measuring/marking the middle to drill the hole dead centre.

    d37b1297b039fbd7ee6ba3b0128bc2f6.jpg

    Success, rivet didn't smash the mg to bits:

    1ecf83f34f6305890cf71820b415eba4.jpg

    ...and then bashed the clips that go into the skewers flatter to increase their length and provide a little more tyre clearance. My rear stays being of the carbon type don't have the curve to the seat stay which made this possible:

    9ef1a44a764cf536e8505af39c6f5a7b.jpg

    Then fit:

    356d138b934d6539c1ea15180776f919.jpg

    Not too agricultural looking and I did the same to the front one as well as losing the flappitty short one that goes in front of the front brake caliper that does nowt anyway. The mg now feels solid on the bike and hopefully won't flap like it did before.

    Now I realise my bike needs a good clean.
    seanoconn - gruagach craic!
  • fudgey
    fudgey Posts: 854
    Good update bud. I have not long come in from loctiting the adjuster screws on mine.
    Still need to remember to bring some rivets home as the ones i have here are too small or stainless steel..
    Hopefully i will get round to it before the cause me any issues.
    My winter bike is exactly the same as my summer bike,,, but dirty...
  • I've got the Longs, and same thing happened to me recently. Admittedly, the rear became detached after I went a bit Cyclo-X on a local ride. I have basically substituted your very adept riveting technique with two zip ties. Not half as pretty as your remedy, but seems perfectly fine month or two layer.

    Fair play to SKS, they sent me replacement parts out gratis from ze Germany, but I'd already implemented the zip rise by the time I got the parts and they'll stay there til they fail...
  • jgsi
    jgsi Posts: 5,062
    I've got the Longs, and same thing happened to me recently. Admittedly, the rear became detached after I went a bit Cyclo-X on a local ride. I have basically substituted your very adept riveting technique with two zip ties. Not half as pretty as your remedy, but seems perfectly fine month or two layer.

    Fair play to SKS, they sent me replacement parts out gratis from ze Germany, but I'd already implemented the zip rise by the time I got the parts and they'll stay there til they fail...

    So glad SKS are redesigning these for next year... my rear mudguard also unclipped itself and dived forwards under the other guard locking the wheel on a down hill bit... it didnt scratch the frame but if it had I'd have been doubly furious.
    I nearly threw the lot into the next field but got home slowly after some bodge work at the road side.
    The whole lot is now at the back of the shed.
    I dont think I'll bother this winter again... that no coverage under the calipers always annoyed and there is a better guardset from Portland, but quite costly.
  • pinno
    pinno Posts: 51,366
    Let us know how you got on with the Portland's. I wonder if I would squeeze 25mm tyres under them.
    seanoconn - gruagach craic!
  • fudgey
    fudgey Posts: 854
    I agree the gaps are a bit annoying. Went out earlier and it was raining/muddy and got filthy. Mostly due to the two other guys having no guards at all but i think i have convinced them to purchase some now.

    Cleaned the bike when i got back an was thinking i could use use some plastic insulation stuff that again we use at work its probably 0.5mm thick and very strong and flexible so i could line between the parts of guards with the stuff and yiu wouldnt really see it.

    Seems a bit of a pain tho to go modifying a new pair of rather expensive guards
    My winter bike is exactly the same as my summer bike,,, but dirty...
  • Could always fit an ass-saver to catch the bits that get thru the brake bridge. Won't keep the bike clean though...
  • fudgey
    fudgey Posts: 854
    got round to modifying my raceblades yesterday and done a little how-to incase it helps anyone.
    (also made a new thread with title to match)

    After reading about people having the quick release fail on their SKS Raceblade longs and following on from another thread i spent an hour modifying my set and riveted them.

    Some may find this useful so i took some pics along the way.
    Of course there are many ways to skin a cat, so this is purely how i chose to do it!

    So to start with, i decided to drill out the rived that holds the plastic retainer to the guard and fix with a rivet through the mounting bracket.

    Measure 15mm from the centre of the black rivet and mark where to cut, then cut the end off.

    image_zpsba8ad67b.jpg

    Using a 4mm drill drill out the rivet from the under side (i only drilled so far then used side cutter to pull the rest out)
    that will leave you with something like this

    image_zps8379ae7d.jpg

    Pull the plastic bit off and tidy the cuts up with a file and you will have this

    image_zps137eceaf.jpg

    Then on to the plastic part you just removed. You need to cut out the bits from the middle

    image_zps98114d74.jpg

    and then cut off the ridge from underneath (using the side cutters i managed to snap this bit off)

    image_zps87b0d36c.jpg

    Then hopefully you should be left with something like this (also use a scalpel or stanley knife to cut away a little bit from the sides so that the bracket can slide all the way through)

    image_zps3012ea60.jpg

    Make sure the bracket will push all the way in so the holes line up

    image_zps4335978d.jpg

    To rivet i used a 4mm x 7mm long rivet, if you dont have any this short then rivet from the the underside so the pulled bit wont touch the tyre. i used a 4mm washer on the rivet also. The rivets i had were short enough to go in from the top.

    image_zps60810fa9.jpg

    Underside pics: (washers were a bit thin and bent!)

    image_zps66abca84.jpg

    image_zps5c3c8e84.jpg
    My winter bike is exactly the same as my summer bike,,, but dirty...
  • fudgey
    fudgey Posts: 854
    So do that with all the guards, and then its on to the skewer mounts:

    image_zpsb2e107b1.jpg

    Cut the little black bit in the centre off, then snap off the locating lobe of the grey part

    image_zps9860e445.jpg

    Insert the skewer mount and using a 4mm drill, drill through the mount to leave this

    image_zps61b9acfc.jpg

    image_zps7f637f67.jpg

    Then rivet. For this i used 4mm x 12mm rivets, and could have done with some larger 4mm penny washers but didnt have any...

    image_zps922e3c2d.jpg

    image_zps2dc10842.jpg

    They dont look too bad and refitting only required minimal adjustments but they are soooo much more secure now, they dont seem to rattle and feel a bit stiffer to wobble etc so fingers crossed they will stay on the bike where they should!
    My winter bike is exactly the same as my summer bike,,, but dirty...