Installing XT M785 brakes with 'through frame' brake lines
db3266
Posts: 38
I'm newbie
I have a 2015 spec Whyte 801. It has Tektro Auriga (don't know which specific spec) brakes.
I was out for a ride yesterday and nearly went headlong into a gate because the rear brake only squealed when I applied it, there was no stopping power at all.
So, I'm considering a brake upgrade, it seems the best brakes are the XT M785's ?
Front is easy, bolt on install. But the rear brake lines go through my frame.
Does anyone have any installation tips for such a task? I guess I should try to mate the Shimano hose to the existing hose and then to pull the Shimano hose through the frame as I remove the old hose?
The Shimano hose will need cutting, do the M785's come with spare parts?
Also, will there be any compatibility issues fitting the levers next to Shimano Acera shifters?
Thanks
I have a 2015 spec Whyte 801. It has Tektro Auriga (don't know which specific spec) brakes.
I was out for a ride yesterday and nearly went headlong into a gate because the rear brake only squealed when I applied it, there was no stopping power at all.
So, I'm considering a brake upgrade, it seems the best brakes are the XT M785's ?
Front is easy, bolt on install. But the rear brake lines go through my frame.
Does anyone have any installation tips for such a task? I guess I should try to mate the Shimano hose to the existing hose and then to pull the Shimano hose through the frame as I remove the old hose?
The Shimano hose will need cutting, do the M785's come with spare parts?
Also, will there be any compatibility issues fitting the levers next to Shimano Acera shifters?
Thanks
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Comments
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you should be able to feed a brake CABLE up the existing hose then remove the hose, then feed the new hose not the cable (which works as a guide) when new hose in place remove cable attach caliper or Lever assy. bleed.
but is sounds more like you have contaminated your current set up.
clean with IPA and replace pads and don't do what you did before to contaminate them."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
I will be cleaning them with Muc-Off Brake cleaner to see if that sorts them out.
I'm not sure if I can source pads locally? Will try Cycles UK and Hallfords at the weekend. Do I need Tektro specific pads?
I was careful with the Muc-Off Bike Spray, but maybe some got on the disc?
Even so, the M785's look like a cracking set of brakes...0 -
db3266 wrote:Do I need Tektro specific pads?
they don't have to be Tektro branded, but they do have to be the right shape for Auriga brake callipers.
IIRC, that's the same shape as the older deore models (m515, m525, etc) as well as Clarks S2 and a handful of others.
start here: http://www.uberbikecomponents.com/search/auriga
or if Halfords is quicker for you: http://www.halfords.com/cycling/cycling ... ads-vx811c0 -
the SLXs are cheaper and identical aside from a bite point adjustment which is marginal at best, they are awesome brakes and easily the best thing I ve added to my bike.
the xt/slx brake sets come with an olive/hose insert to allow shortening of brake line (and/or swopping sides) from the reservoir end ONLY.
so you would feed the hose up from the caliper end of the frame.
If you do it the way Shimano say, you shouldn't need to bleed brakes.
2 sets of slx brakes would be about 90 from Bike discount.de0 -
jimothy78 wrote:db3266 wrote:Do I need Tektro specific pads?
they don't have to be Tektro branded, but they do have to be the right shape for Auriga brake callipers.
IIRC, that's the same shape as the older deore models (m515, m525, etc) as well as Clarks S2 and a handful of others.
start here: http://www.uberbikecomponents.com/search/auriga
or if Halfords is quicker for you: http://www.halfords.com/cycling/cycling ... ads-vx811c
Thanks, they are in stock at my local Hallfords 8)0 -
Use thisnicklouse wrote:clean with IPA and replace pads and don't do what you did before to contaminate them.
Not thisdb3266 wrote:I will be cleaning them with Muc-Off Brake cleaner to see if that sorts them out.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
What is IPA and why not the Muc-Off cleaner?0
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db3266 wrote:
Yes, although you get a lot more for your money if you just buy a big bottle of IPA from amazon or similar0 -
Isopropyl Alcohol. Really cheap on Ebay and get the 99.9% pure. Cleans without leaving any residue. Brake cleaners often do.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
thanks. I want it for the weekend, so will be getting it from Maplin.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/isopropyl-alc ... itre-re71n0 -
db3266 wrote:thanks. I want it for the weekend, so will be getting it from Maplin.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/isopropyl-alc ... itre-re71n
That's what I use a bit on a clean rag and wipe both sides rotor.
I do have some of the muc off brake cleaner, it works well on rotors but keep away from the pads, made an old test set crumble up. Even though it said it would rehydrate them.
What do people use to get mud off the brake pad?0 -
WaterI don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
and use.0
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Lookyhere wrote:If you do it the way Shimano say, you shouldn't need to bleed brakes.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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The Rookie wrote:Lookyhere wrote:If you do it the way Shimano say, you shouldn't need to bleed brakes.
Did this on an internally routed mtb frame last year, there was no need to bleed, maybe I was lucky? but I didn't use any steel cable guide, just the old hoses.
when you push back the pistons with Shimano (as im sure you know) any trapped air is released, its in one of their tech docs too.
I will need to do this again, as the frame is cracked and will be a warranty replacement, so I ll find out how lucky I was wont I0