Carbon Bike In Winter
Comments
-
Why are some people terrified of riding a carbon bike in the winter?
Am I missing something here?
I've ridden my carbon bike through the past two winters and it hasn't broken yet. Should it have done?
Admittedly, I have to spend time cleaning the bike afterwards. Perhaps that's the real issue.0 -
johnny25 wrote:Why are some people terrified of riding a carbon bike in the winter?
Am I missing something here?
I've ridden my carbon bike through the past two winters and it hasn't broken yet. Should it have done?
Admittedly, I have to spend time cleaning the bike afterwards. Perhaps that's the real issue.
You THINK it's not broken. In fact the good people of bike radar have been sneaking in and replacing it at regular intervals. We look after our carbon comrades................My blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
https://twitter.com/roubaixcc
Facebook? No. Just say no.0 -
I have a wet weather bike (alu frame, 25mm GP4S tyres, SKS Chromoplstic guards) and a dry weather bike (carbon, no clearance or mounts for guards).
If it's a dry day I'll ride the carbon bike in the winter, but most of the time the amount of crap on the roads means it's the wet weather bike.
Ditto in the summer; if it's a wet one I'll be mainly riding the bike with mudguards. This year I've been riding the carbon bike a lot. In fact the wet bike only had it's maiden ride on Saturday.
The only other reason for not using a carbon framed bike in winter is the risk of crashing due to ice. If you are in the habit of skidding about like Bambi, a basic alu frame would be cheaper to replace if properly crashed. (Although you could also argue that a carbon frame would be more likely to survive)0 -
upperoilcan wrote:My Cervelo S5 makes a wonderful winter bike,it's just a shame I can't squeeze some 25's on it.
Admittedly I only ride when it's dry with some winter wheels on it !!
I had Ultremo DD 25s on mine last year, with no problems. 2012 Team frame.0 -
keef66 wrote:I have a wet weather bike (alu frame, 25mm GP4S tyres, SKS Chromoplstic guards) and a dry weather bike (carbon, no clearance or mounts for guards).
If it's a dry day I'll ride the carbon bike in the winter, but most of the time the amount of crap on the roads means it's the wet weather bike.
Ditto in the summer; if it's a wet one I'll be mainly riding the bike with mudguards. This year I've been riding the carbon bike a lot. In fact the wet bike only had it's maiden ride on Saturday.
The only other reason for not using a carbon framed bike in winter is the risk of crashing due to ice. If you are in the habit of skidding about like Bambi, a basic alu frame would be cheaper to replace if properly crashed. (Although you could also argue that a carbon frame would be more likely to survive)
Why would a carbon frame be more likely to survive?Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
But that's not telling us why it's more likelY to survive a crash, it's just saying what else they make out of it.
Don't they also make planes out of aluminium?Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Ai_1 wrote:If you only ride in the dry then I'd argue it's not really getting "winter bike" use as such.
Exactly ! cold crisp days only !964Cup wrote:
I had Ultremo DD 25s on mine last year, with no problems. 2012 Team frame.
I'm assuming my 2014 frame is no different to your 2012,i will look into the tyres,thanks for the heads up.Cervelo S5 Ultegra Di2.0 -
Look, bikes are for riding.
If you watch TV you will see carbon bikes ridden by men & women in all weathers at all speeds and sometimes for money. As far as I know, they don't change to an aluminum bike (or similar) because it's wet and chilly and they might fall off and damage it.
If you think you're not competent to ride in the wet or in the freezing cold, then don't. If you ride to the conditions and your skill level, then you really shouldn't be falling off. The material the bike is made for is irrelevant.
The only disadvantage I find riding in the winter is the time to properly clean the bike and clothing and the cost of all the additional clothing to keep me warm.0 -
johnny25 wrote:Look, bikes are for riding.
This^.
That's essentially all there is to it! Yes, if you have a best bike that you want to last in pristine condition forever more, then pamper it and don't expose to the elements. Otherwise, ride your bike, it won't simply fall apart.0 -
Agreed.morstar wrote:johnny25 wrote:Look, bikes are for riding.
This^.
That's essentially all there is to it! Yes, if you have a best bike that you want to last in pristine condition forever more, then pamper it and don't expose to the elements. Otherwise, ride your bike, it won't simply fall apart.
Here's the root of ths confusion in my opinion: There's enough people around with 2 or more bikes who have tasked the "lesser" one as a "winter bike" that it's become accepted as a normal arrangement. Newcomers then see this 2 bike system in use with the "winter bike" often being an older alloy frame that's been replaced in good weather by a newer carbon bike. The assumption is often then made that the winter bike must exist because the carbon one isn't suitable for winter use. The confusion is understandable. The ideas that spring from that confusion can be unfortunate and/or entertaining.
Furthermore many people still seem to view carbon fibre as a strange and mystical material, and I don't just mean beginners either! Thus they are willing to accept that it may need special treatment and believe that it comes with a range of strange and restrictive rules.
The really short version wrt carbon fibre composites:
1. Carbon fibre is a fibre. In it's raw form it consists simply of a slender black strand of carbon. When used to make components such as bike frames it's combined with another material, usually epoxy or polyester resin to become a composite material that can be formed into different shapes.
2. Carbon fibre is strong in tension. Without being combined with a resin, the fibres alone will simply bend/buckle under longitudinal compression.
3. Carbon is not very temperature critical for most purposes but the resin component of the composite often is.
4. Carbon is a fibre, not a particle. Therefore it has a directionality (you could compare it to the grain in wood). This can be used for our benefit as it means we can organise the orientation of fibres throughout a component to provide strength and flexibility or rigidity specifically where we want them.
5. The "quality" of a carbon composite component is dictated by the characteristics of the resin, the proportions and distribution of resin to carbon and I believe the carbon fibre itself can vary in quality but I don't know much about that.
6. Not all carbon is equal due to the properties noted above. Carbon is easy to use but hard to use really well. It's much more complex to design with than a homogeneous material like most metals and many plastics.
7. Some "carbon" is really glass fibre that's been dyed black (I doubt this occurs in bike frames or if it does, I'd imagine it's only on forgeries). I've seen this once or twice in loosely sold carbon rods and once in spars for a kite which were supposed to be carbon composite. (they were less rigid than expected and on breaking/cutting the end revealed a whitish sheen not present with carbon fibre)
8. Carbon is not universally better than every other material.
9. People talk a lot of nonsense about carbon [note: the fact carbon is used in airplanes and spacecraft does not mean it's the best material for everything else or that it can't be misused]
10. Carbon is not magical.
Edit: Damn, I've accidentally made a sincere post in a thread where I don't think it really belongs. I apologise. But since I've gone to the trouble of writing it, I'll leave it here anyway.0 -
* Yep, you could have used the copy/paste function.
A single filament of Carbon Fibre next to a human hair:
(1) Weight versus strength. Carbon fiber is the lightest and strongest per weight material known. It is one-half the weight of aluminum with three times the strength. Carbon fiber is extremely versatile and well suited for applications where stiffness and low weight are required. Carbon fiber allows a designer virtually unlimited ability to build parts with stiffness and strength that far exceeds aluminum, steel, and even titanium.
(2) CTE. The parts can be tailored to have strength and stiffness in the directions and locations the designer deems necessary, making it relatively easy to form complex, integrated structures with a superior overall shape and value. Carbon fibers by themselves have a negative coefficient of thermal expansion (CTE)–meaning that when they are heated, they shrink. Even when the fibers are put into a resin matrix, the composite can be tailored to have almost zero CTE. Carbon’s thermal stability increases manufacturing precision. Aluminum, steel and titanium all increase in size when heated.
(3) The matrix. Carbon fiber composite products are made by combining reinforcement (fiber) with matrix (resin). This combination of the fiber and matrix gives characteristics superior to either of the materials alone. In a composite material, the fibers carry the majority of the loads and characterize the material’s properties. The resin helps to transfer loads between fibers, prevents the fibers from buckling, and binds the materials together. Anything made of carbon fiber is loosely called carbon or carbon composite.
(4) Vinylester. The most common resins used to bind carbon are polyester, vinylester or epoxy. All have different levels of strength, durability, hardness and flexibility. Lightspeed uses epoxy resin, which is best known for its strength and durability.
(5) Ground down. Graphite carbon, also called thermal carbon, is a “grind” of carbon fibers that are mixed with resin and injection formed at extreme heat and pressure. It can be thought of as a heat-treated carbon fiber. Some mountain bike handlebars, which need to be extremely strong and lightweight, are produced using a thermal plastic carbon process. It is also used to construct tennis rackets, snow shoes, mountain bike frames and Formula One and jumbo jet disc brake rotors.
(6) 2×1 twill. Injection molded carbon doesn’t have long continuous fiber strands that are woven together. Its varying, mixed finish doesn’t give the aesthetic value of carbon parts with the weave. Weave patterns of carbon fibers can be oriented to allow for different directional strength, torsional stiffness, lateral rigidity, and other specific mechanical properties. Lightspeed uses the popular 2×2 twill 3K CF weave. The “2×2″ is the fiber over-under cross weave, the “Twill” is the pattern, the “3” is the carbon fiber strand count per cross pattern, times the “K” (one thousand). So a 3K weave is 3000 strands of fibers per cross pattern.
(7) Orientation. The engineer can choose from a wide variety of fibers and resins to obtain the desired material properties. Also, the material thickness and fiber orientations can be optimized for each application. The use of woven Kevlar, commonly known for its bulletproof applications, increases the sheer tensile strength of carbon fiber. As soon as Kevlar or any other material is added, carbon fiber becomes a carbon composite. LightSpeed strategically places Kevlar on selected components for increased durability.
(8) Components. In the mid 1990’s, Team Kawasaki was the first motocross company to experiment with carbon fiber on their bikes. Later, the material was put to great use in the design of Doug Henry’s 1997 YZ400F factory bike. Skid plates, case guards, frame guard, chain guides, disc guards, fork guards, pipe hangers, mufflers, brackets, ignition covers, clutch covers, sprocket covers, case savers, tank covers, pinch clamps, helmets, knee and wrist braces and neck braces are all made from carbon fiber. Other carbon fiber components for motocross bikes are used to achieve cooler operating temperatures. Items such as heat shields, air tracts, rear caliper brake ducts, gas tank undertrays and so on.
(9) Price. Cost and weight are still the primary limiters of the wide use of carbon composite material on motocross bikes. Currently, the only parts that the AMA rule book disallows are carbon fiber disc brake rotors, number plates and disc brake parts.
(10) Lifespan. Over time carbon fiber has a tendency to age and dry out. This can be lessened with a few precautions. After washing your motorcycle, apply some kind of protectant or silicone to restore carbon fiber’s shiny appearance. The best thing to use on your carbon fiber parts is Maxima SC1. Be careful not to get any on the brake rotors. You can always apply it to a cloth first and then use the treated cloth to wipe the carbon fiber.
More info:
http://theprojectjunkie.com/resources-guides-tutorials/39/carbon-fiber-basics.htmlseanoconn - gruagach craic!0 -
pinarello001 wrote:* Yep, you could have used the copy/paste function.
A single filament of Carbon Fibre next to a human hair:
(1) Weight versus strength. Carbon fiber is the lightest and strongest per weight material known. It is one-half the weight of aluminum with three times the strength. Carbon fiber is extremely versatile and well suited for applications where stiffness and low weight are required. Carbon fiber allows a designer virtually unlimited ability to build parts with stiffness and strength that far exceeds aluminum, steel, and even titanium.
(2) CTE. The parts can be tailored to have strength and stiffness in the directions and locations the designer deems necessary, making it relatively easy to form complex, integrated structures with a superior overall shape and value. Carbon fibers by themselves have a negative coefficient of thermal expansion (CTE)–meaning that when they are heated, they shrink. Even when the fibers are put into a resin matrix, the composite can be tailored to have almost zero CTE. Carbon’s thermal stability increases manufacturing precision. Aluminum, steel and titanium all increase in size when heated.
(3) The matrix. Carbon fiber composite products are made by combining reinforcement (fiber) with matrix (resin). This combination of the fiber and matrix gives characteristics superior to either of the materials alone. In a composite material, the fibers carry the majority of the loads and characterize the material’s properties. The resin helps to transfer loads between fibers, prevents the fibers from buckling, and binds the materials together. Anything made of carbon fiber is loosely called carbon or carbon composite.
(4) Vinylester. The most common resins used to bind carbon are polyester, vinylester or epoxy. All have different levels of strength, durability, hardness and flexibility. Lightspeed uses epoxy resin, which is best known for its strength and durability.
(5) Ground down. Graphite carbon, also called thermal carbon, is a “grind” of carbon fibers that are mixed with resin and injection formed at extreme heat and pressure. It can be thought of as a heat-treated carbon fiber. Some mountain bike handlebars, which need to be extremely strong and lightweight, are produced using a thermal plastic carbon process. It is also used to construct tennis rackets, snow shoes, mountain bike frames and Formula One and jumbo jet disc brake rotors.
(6) 2×1 twill. Injection molded carbon doesn’t have long continuous fiber strands that are woven together. Its varying, mixed finish doesn’t give the aesthetic value of carbon parts with the weave. Weave patterns of carbon fibers can be oriented to allow for different directional strength, torsional stiffness, lateral rigidity, and other specific mechanical properties. Lightspeed uses the popular 2×2 twill 3K CF weave. The “2×2″ is the fiber over-under cross weave, the “Twill” is the pattern, the “3” is the carbon fiber strand count per cross pattern, times the “K” (one thousand). So a 3K weave is 3000 strands of fibers per cross pattern.
(7) Orientation. The engineer can choose from a wide variety of fibers and resins to obtain the desired material properties. Also, the material thickness and fiber orientations can be optimized for each application. The use of woven Kevlar, commonly known for its bulletproof applications, increases the sheer tensile strength of carbon fiber. As soon as Kevlar or any other material is added, carbon fiber becomes a carbon composite. LightSpeed strategically places Kevlar on selected components for increased durability.
(8) Components. In the mid 1990’s, Team Kawasaki was the first motocross company to experiment with carbon fiber on their bikes. Later, the material was put to great use in the design of Doug Henry’s 1997 YZ400F factory bike. Skid plates, case guards, frame guard, chain guides, disc guards, fork guards, pipe hangers, mufflers, brackets, ignition covers, clutch covers, sprocket covers, case savers, tank covers, pinch clamps, helmets, knee and wrist braces and neck braces are all made from carbon fiber. Other carbon fiber components for motocross bikes are used to achieve cooler operating temperatures. Items such as heat shields, air tracts, rear caliper brake ducts, gas tank undertrays and so on.
(9) Price. Cost and weight are still the primary limiters of the wide use of carbon composite material on motocross bikes. Currently, the only parts that the AMA rule book disallows are carbon fiber disc brake rotors, number plates and disc brake parts.
(10) Lifespan. Over time carbon fiber has a tendency to age and dry out. This can be lessened with a few precautions. After washing your motorcycle, apply some kind of protectant or silicone to restore carbon fiber’s shiny appearance. The best thing to use on your carbon fiber parts is Maxima SC1. Be careful not to get any on the brake rotors. You can always apply it to a cloth first and then use the treated cloth to wipe the carbon fiber.
More info:
http://theprojectjunkie.com/resources-guides-tutorials/39/carbon-fiber-basics.html
I agree.Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Matthewfalle wrote:keef66 wrote:
The only other reason for not using a carbon framed bike in winter is the risk of crashing due to ice. If you are in the habit of skidding about like Bambi, a basic alu frame would be cheaper to replace if properly crashed. (Although you could also argue that a carbon frame would be more likely to survive)
Why would a carbon frame be more likely to survive?
I just get the feeling it's more resilient and more likely to bounce. If you took 100 alu frames and 100 carbon frames and threw them down the road I think more of the alu ones would suffer unrepairable damage. Plus in many cases a damaged carbon frame can be repaired; bent and cracked alu is generally a write-off.
I'm not going to throw both my bikes out of the car to test my theory though...0 -
A bike is for riding !0
-
Millidog wrote:A bike is for riding !
What? Some bikes need extra special care and should only be taken out on sunny days with an ambient temperature of 15 (+/- 2) degrees centigrade for carbon and Aluminium gets very brittle at minus 5 and titanium...don't get me started on titanium.
We get temperamental bicycles whereas the pro bike s are tested in the Sahara, the Indian monsoons and the North pole.seanoconn - gruagach craic!0 -
keef66 wrote:Matthewfalle wrote:keef66 wrote:
The only other reason for not using a carbon framed bike in winter is the risk of crashing due to ice. If you are in the habit of skidding about like Bambi, a basic alu frame would be cheaper to replace if properly crashed. (Although you could also argue that a carbon frame would be more likely to survive)
Why would a carbon frame be more likely to survive?
I just get the feeling it's more resilient and more likely to bounce. If you took 100 alu frames and 100 carbon frames and threw them down the road I think more of the alu ones would suffer unrepairable damage. Plus in many cases a damaged carbon frame can be repaired; bent and cracked alu is generally a write-off.
I'm not going to throw both my bikes out of the car to test my theory though...
Are you sure - Ali is strong in all planes of direction whereas carbon is ridiculously strong in one plane only....... And Ali can be related/welded/cut 'n' shut as you wish - I'll glue your carbon bike back together but will you ever really, really trust it fully again?Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Matthewfalle wrote:keef66 wrote:Matthewfalle wrote:keef66 wrote:
The only other reason for not using a carbon framed bike in winter is the risk of crashing due to ice. If you are in the habit of skidding about like Bambi, a basic alu frame would be cheaper to replace if properly crashed. (Although you could also argue that a carbon frame would be more likely to survive)
Why would a carbon frame be more likely to survive?
I just get the feeling it's more resilient and more likely to bounce. If you took 100 alu frames and 100 carbon frames and threw them down the road I think more of the alu ones would suffer unrepairable damage. Plus in many cases a damaged carbon frame can be repaired; bent and cracked alu is generally a write-off.
I'm not going to throw both my bikes out of the car to test my theory though...
Are you sure - Ali is strong in all planes of direction whereas carbon is ridiculously strong in one plane only....... And Ali can be related/welded/cut 'n' shut as you wish - I'll glue your carbon bike back together but will you ever really, really trust it fully again?
Depends on the 'weave' but then you have to be careful of the weave; there's no dodging that fact and you might find yourself in a scrum with that one.seanoconn - gruagach craic!0 -
pinarello001 wrote:Matthewfalle wrote:keef66 wrote:Matthewfalle wrote:keef66 wrote:
The only other reason for not using a carbon framed bike in winter is the risk of crashing due to ice. If you are in the habit of skidding about like Bambi, a basic alu frame would be cheaper to replace if properly crashed. (Although you could also argue that a carbon frame would be more likely to survive)
Why would a carbon frame be more likely to survive?
I just get the feeling it's more resilient and more likely to bounce. If you took 100 alu frames and 100 carbon frames and threw them down the road I think more of the alu ones would suffer unrepairable damage. Plus in many cases a damaged carbon frame can be repaired; bent and cracked alu is generally a write-off.
I'm not going to throw both my bikes out of the car to test my theory though...
Are you sure - Ali is strong in all planes of direction whereas carbon is ridiculously strong in one plane only....... And Ali can be related/welded/cut 'n' shut as you wish - I'll glue your carbon bike back together but will you ever really, really trust it fully again?
Depends on the 'weave' but then you have to be careful of the weave; there's no dodging that fact and you might find yourself in a scrum with that one.
But surely the weave is dependant on the weft?Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Matthewfalle wrote:pinarello001 wrote:Matthewfalle wrote:keef66 wrote:Matthewfalle wrote:keef66 wrote:
The only other reason for not using a carbon framed bike in winter is the risk of crashing due to ice. If you are in the habit of skidding about like Bambi, a basic alu frame would be cheaper to replace if properly crashed. (Although you could also argue that a carbon frame would be more likely to survive)
Why would a carbon frame be more likely to survive?
I just get the feeling it's more resilient and more likely to bounce. If you took 100 alu frames and 100 carbon frames and threw them down the road I think more of the alu ones would suffer unrepairable damage. Plus in many cases a damaged carbon frame can be repaired; bent and cracked alu is generally a write-off.
I'm not going to throw both my bikes out of the car to test my theory though...
Are you sure - Ali is strong in all planes of direction whereas carbon is ridiculously strong in one plane only....... And Ali can be related/welded/cut 'n' shut as you wish - I'll glue your carbon bike back together but will you ever really, really trust it fully again?
Depends on the 'weave' but then you have to be careful of the weave; there's no dodging that fact and you might find yourself in a scrum with that one.
But surely the weave is dependant on the weft?
It's all right mate, speech defects no longer carry the stigma that they used to. You can get help for it now.seanoconn - gruagach craic!0 -
pinarello001 wrote:Matthewfalle wrote:pinarello001 wrote:Matthewfalle wrote:keef66 wrote:Matthewfalle wrote:keef66 wrote:
The only other reason for not using a carbon framed bike in winter is the risk of crashing due to ice. If you are in the habit of skidding about like Bambi, a basic alu frame would be cheaper to replace if properly crashed. (Although you could also argue that a carbon frame would be more likely to survive)
Why would a carbon frame be more likely to survive?
I just get the feeling it's more resilient and more likely to bounce. If you took 100 alu frames and 100 carbon frames and threw them down the road I think more of the alu ones would suffer unrepairable damage. Plus in many cases a damaged carbon frame can be repaired; bent and cracked alu is generally a write-off.
I'm not going to throw both my bikes out of the car to test my theory though...
Are you sure - Ali is strong in all planes of direction whereas carbon is ridiculously strong in one plane only....... And Ali can be related/welded/cut 'n' shut as you wish - I'll glue your carbon bike back together but will you ever really, really trust it fully again?
Depends on the 'weave' but then you have to be careful of the weave; there's no dodging that fact and you might find yourself in a scrum with that one.
But surely the weave is dependant on the weft?
It's all right mate, speech defects no longer carry the stigma that they used to. You can get help for it now.
Thank you. But will it affect my carbon bike?Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Matthewfalle wrote:pinarello001 wrote:Matthewfalle wrote:pinarello001 wrote:Matthewfalle wrote:keef66 wrote:Matthewfalle wrote:keef66 wrote:
The only other reason for not using a carbon framed bike in winter is the risk of crashing due to ice. If you are in the habit of skidding about like Bambi, a basic alu frame would be cheaper to replace if properly crashed. (Although you could also argue that a carbon frame would be more likely to survive)
Why would a carbon frame be more likely to survive?
I just get the feeling it's more resilient and more likely to bounce. If you took 100 alu frames and 100 carbon frames and threw them down the road I think more of the alu ones would suffer unrepairable damage. Plus in many cases a damaged carbon frame can be repaired; bent and cracked alu is generally a write-off.
I'm not going to throw both my bikes out of the car to test my theory though...
Are you sure - Ali is strong in all planes of direction whereas carbon is ridiculously strong in one plane only....... And Ali can be related/welded/cut 'n' shut as you wish - I'll glue your carbon bike back together but will you ever really, really trust it fully again?
Depends on the 'weave' but then you have to be careful of the weave; there's no dodging that fact and you might find yourself in a scrum with that one.
But surely the weave is dependant on the weft?
It's all right mate, speech defects no longer carry the stigma that they used to. You can get help for it now.
Thank you. But will it affect my carbon bike?
A lisp often leads to dribbling and as saliva is an enzyme, you're risking the top tube.seanoconn - gruagach craic!0 -
pinarello001 wrote:Matthewfalle wrote:pinarello001 wrote:Matthewfalle wrote:pinarello001 wrote:Matthewfalle wrote:keef66 wrote:Matthewfalle wrote:keef66 wrote:
The only other reason for not using a carbon framed bike in winter is the risk of crashing due to ice. If you are in the habit of skidding about like Bambi, a basic alu frame would be cheaper to replace if properly crashed. (Although you could also argue that a carbon frame would be more likely to survive)
Why would a carbon frame be more likely to survive?
I just get the feeling it's more resilient and more likely to bounce. If you took 100 alu frames and 100 carbon frames and threw them down the road I think more of the alu ones would suffer unrepairable damage. Plus in many cases a damaged carbon frame can be repaired; bent and cracked alu is generally a write-off.
I'm not going to throw both my bikes out of the car to test my theory though...
Are you sure - Ali is strong in all planes of direction whereas carbon is ridiculously strong in one plane only....... And Ali can be related/welded/cut 'n' shut as you wish - I'll glue your carbon bike back together but will you ever really, really trust it fully again?
Depends on the 'weave' but then you have to be careful of the weave; there's no dodging that fact and you might find yourself in a scrum with that one.
But surely the weave is dependant on the weft?
It's all right mate, speech defects no longer carry the stigma that they used to. You can get help for it now.
Thank you. But will it affect my carbon bike?
A lisp often leads to dribbling and as saliva is an enzyme, you're risking the top tube.
To bib or not to bib? Bizarrely enough, the class imbecile at school had a lisp. We were such unthinking bastards that we used to put on fake lissssssspsssss to wind him up.
Oh how the cretin had the last laugh when his cleared up and we all were stuck with lissssspsss that we had forced ourselves to adopt.
Needless to say, ours cleared up and he ended up marrying a fat ginger munter who then left him. Oh how we laughed ............Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Would anyone buy a carbon bike which is 5 years old?
I understood and I'd be happy to be enlightend if I'm wrong but the trouble with carbon is you are unable to visually check the frame for damage and risk a catastrophic failure?
Many moons ago i used to fly hang gliders and I acquired an early model with carbon cross tubes. It was a peach to fly but I always carried some doubt as there wasn't a visual inspection to carry out to ensure the airworthiness as I used to have the occasional heavy landing….. That was fourteen years ago though and technology has moved on. Yes I have a couple of carbon bikes but the emotional investment is in my ti mtb bike which I rarely ride and after spotting that gorgeous Moots ti road bike has me doing man maths.“Give a man a fish and feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and feed him for a lifetime. Teach a man to cycle and he will realize fishing is stupid and boring”
Desmond Tutu0 -
Slowmart wrote:Would anyone buy a carbon bike which is 5 years old?
I understood and I'd be happy to be enlightend if I'm wrong but the trouble with carbon is you are unable to visually check the frame for damage and risk a catastrophic failure?
Many moons ago i used to fly hang gliders and I acquired an early model with carbon cross tubes. It was a peach to fly but I always carried some doubt as there wasn't a visual inspection to carry out to ensure the airworthiness as I used to have the occasional heavy landing….. That was fourteen years ago though and technology has moved on. Yes I have a couple of carbon bikes but the emotional investment is in my ti mtb bike which I rarely ride and after spotting that gorgeous Moots ti road bike has me doing man maths.
Would anyone buy a second hand carbon bike of any age? Now I don't want to be accused of planting seeds of doubt into people's minds but are you really, really, 100% sure of the provenance of your bike?
Now I'm not saying that people won't tell you the whole truth in order to be able to sell their bike, but ..........Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
....but that's exactly what you're "not" sayingMatthewfalle wrote:Slowmart wrote:Would anyone buy a carbon bike which is 5 years old?
I understood and I'd be happy to be enlightend if I'm wrong but the trouble with carbon is you are unable to visually check the frame for damage and risk a catastrophic failure?
Many moons ago i used to fly hang gliders and I acquired an early model with carbon cross tubes. It was a peach to fly but I always carried some doubt as there wasn't a visual inspection to carry out to ensure the airworthiness as I used to have the occasional heavy landing….. That was fourteen years ago though and technology has moved on. Yes I have a couple of carbon bikes but the emotional investment is in my ti mtb bike which I rarely ride and after spotting that gorgeous Moots ti road bike has me doing man maths.
Would anyone buy a second hand carbon bike of any age? Now I don't want to be accused of planting seeds of doubt into people's minds but are you really, really, 100% sure of the provenance of your bike?
Now I'm not saying that people won't tell you the whole truth in order to be able to sell their bike, but ..........0 -
Much spoken about carbon, but the frame material is the least thing that worries me in winter conditions.
All are good/bad enough and easy to clean if necessary.
It's the much more expensive components I want not to be contaminated with mud and salt.
I don't want to have to spray water over my best bikes to get the shxt off.
And to be fair, the piece of junk I use in the cold and wet gives me almost as much fun as the more expensive ones in the summer.
Build from leftovers I doubt I could get more then 100 for it on sale, but for me it's worth far more.0 -
only use mine indoors on the rollers in winter, wouldn't use a carbon bike on a turbo
0 -
I agree.Keezx wrote:Much spoken about carbon, but the frame material is the least thing that worries me in winter conditions.
All are good/bad enough and easy to clean if necessary.
It's the much more expensive components I want not to be contaminated with mud and salt.
I don't want to have to spray water over my best bikes to get the shxt off.
And to be fair, the piece of junk I use in the cold and wet gives me almost as much fun as the more expensive ones in the summer.
Build from leftovers I doubt I could get more then 100 for it on sale, but for me it's worth far more.
The frame material is irrelevant. ability to fit mudguards is relevant and if you're worried about wear and tear in bad conditions then groupset and wheels are relevant.0 -
Ai_1 wrote:The frame material is irrelevant. ability to fit mudguards is relevant and if you're worried about wear and tear in bad conditions then groupset and wheels are relevant.
I don't bother with wheels in winter. If you remove the parts that kicks up all that cr@p off the road, you remove the problem at source.0 -
Prefer an old bike over mudgards as long as it doesn't rain constantly.
With mudgards a bike doesn't feel like a racing bike anymore.
Today it was dry and I went out with my better bike, glad without mudguards.0
