steel road bike for 'winter build.

Mark Alexander

I realise that it's been done to death but any recommendations would be great.
I'm looking to build up a winter bike but probably steel. it'll need gears rather than SS.
what's a good steel frame?

timothyw

The question is a little vague.

This is a good steel frame, certainly one of the best in current production:
http://www.ukbikesdepot.com/m90b185s804 ... eset_2014/

However, for a winter bike you are more likely to be looking at one of these Ribbles:
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-t ... ibbfraw240

Or if you want something with brakes that still work in the wet, you might want to get a kaffenback:
http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/FRPXKBD2/p ... 2-frameset

There's also a whole range of Genesis framesets to hit prices/styles inbetween.

If you are using it for training then the key thing is to get something which matches the geometry as closely as possible of your race bike. Of course, the Genesis Volare is good enough to use as a race bike itself (and is by the Madison Genesis team).

arlowood

If your budget won't stretch to the Volare frameset then the Genesis Equilibrium is well regarded and about 1/3 the cost of the Volare

http://www.genesisbikes.co.uk/bikes/fra ... quilibrium

I am currently riding an Equilibrium I built from a 2012 frameset and I can recommend it as an all round option - not just for winter use. Will take full guards and up to 28mm tyres.

dwanes

Why steel? For a winter bike steel is probably the worst choice due to corrosion.
Carbon frames are ideal for winter as they will not corrode ever from winter conditions.

LegendLust

dwanes wrote:

Why steel? For a winter bike steel is probably the worst choice due to corrosion.
Carbon frames are ideal for winter as they will not corrode ever from winter conditions.

:roll:

housemunkey

LegendLust wrote:

dwanes wrote:

Why steel? For a winter bike steel is probably the worst choice due to corrosion.
Carbon frames are ideal for winter as they will not corrode ever from winter conditions.

:roll:

Agreed.

There seems to be this idea that steel is going to rust away in 5 minutes....If you just look after it like any other bike it'll last longer than your enthusiasm for it. The great thing about steel is that if you stack it it is way more repairable. I'm sure someone will disagree but I can't be bothered to argue.

I have a 2013 equilibrium 20 frame I built up with 6700 ultegra, hope hoops and some deda finishing kit. I've used it all summer and now it's guarded up for the winter. It has been excellent in every situation. It wont be my summer bike next year but it certainly will get ridden year round. HTH

arlowood

dwanes wrote:

Why steel? For a winter bike steel is probably the worst choice due to corrosion.
Carbon frames are ideal for winter as they will not corrode ever from winter conditions.

Just a few points by way of rebuttal.

Carbon frames rarely come with proper mudguard eyelets so you end up faffing with Cruds or some other compromise. Also the cleareances on some frames preclude the use of 25mm tyres with any sort of mudguard option.

They may be more corrosion proof than steel but there are still plenty of vintage steel bikes out there that belie the notion that steel frames are like Wheetabix and will crumble at the first sign of moisture.

As HouseMunkey says, if you look after your steel frame it should last you just as long as any carbon alternative

dwanes

HouseMunkey wrote:

LegendLust wrote:

dwanes wrote:

Why steel? For a winter bike steel is probably the worst choice due to corrosion.
Carbon frames are ideal for winter as they will not corrode ever from winter conditions.

:roll:

Agreed.

There seems to be this idea that steel is going to rust away in 5 minutes....If you just look after it like any other bike it'll last longer than your enthusiasm for it. The great thing about steel is that if you stack it it is way more repairable. I'm sure someone will disagree but I can't be bothered to argue.

I have a 2013 equilibrium 20 frame I built up with 6700 ultegra, hope hoops and some deda finishing kit. I've used it all summer and now it's guarded up for the winter. It has been excellent in every situation. It wont be my summer bike next year but it certainly will get ridden year round. HTH

But i thought the idea of a 'winter bike' was one that you didn't need to look after and could just throw back in the shed after a dark ride home, and didnt treat like the 'other' bike.

Whats the point in the OP calling it a feckin 'winter' bike. The term should be banned.

cougie

You need to look after every bike - dont go out on winter gritted roads and lob the bike back in the shed for the next week - that salt is nasty stuff and whatever was shiny once, won't be next time.

A winter bike should have space for at least 25mm tyres under its full guards - that keeps the crud off most of the bike - so a quick hose down should help.

Steel would be fine.

iron-clover

I agree that steel is more than capable of surviving every winter you throw at it with good care.
My first cycling club was a local branch of the CTC (I lowered their average age considerably 8) ) and virtually without exception they all rode on steel frames that were at least 20 years old. There was one member who was going for the lifetime distance record who was riding an old racing frame (can still take mudguards though!!) that he bought second hand in the early '50s as his only bike.

Get hold of some frame saver oil to put inside the frame, and check the paint is still intact every so often- nail polish is a good patch up just to prevent corrosion from salted roads, and if you've been riding through floods bring it inside and plonk next to a radiator for a couple of days and it'll be fine. It does take an awful lot of rust to ruin a decent steel frame as well- i.e. decades being left out in the elements. Although steel does rust, the corrosion doesn't flake off as with iron- if you don't rub off the rust layer in theory no more can form underneath as it forms a barrier between the air and the bare metal beneath.

I once bought an old steel shopper bike that had been left outside for over 10 years, and although it wasn't pretty you could sandblast off the old paint and rust, repaint and you wouldn't be able to tell. Gave up in the end as the end user lost interest.

thegreatdivide

I've just built up a Genesis Equilibrium 20 (in cream) with spares / second hand bits, 28mm tyres and full length SKS guards. It's done a couple of hundred miles so far and I think the overall bike is going to be a great wet/winter ride. It’s nowhere near as responsive as the good bikes but it’s solid and comfortable and that'll get me through the long winter miles.

As above, get the salt off before putting the bike away – that stuff destroys cassettes, BB’s and chains. I’ve got the hose set up in the back garden so that when I come home the bike gets a quick spray. It doesn’t need a full clean, just enough water to knock the sh*te off.

smoggysteve

Steel will survive even the worst weather and salt from the roads. They treat the metal the same way as on a car to protect it. So long as you give it a rinse with a low pressure hose and dry it off it will last.

Carbon will survive the elements but with the increased risk of coming off in the bad conditions, ice, mud, snow, leaves, covered hazards under water or leaves like broken branches, pot holes, higher risk of puncturing, its more of a case of would a carbon frame survive a heavy knock in the wrong direction.

The point of a winter bike it having something you can risk taking in the above conditions. Steel or alu or Ti will handle a bang or two but 1 crack in the wrong place will total carbon

veronese68

Steel makes perfect sense. Considering it's a winter bike as someone posted above the Kaffenback might be a good idea as disc brakes are definitely an advantage in the wet. Or the new Equilibrium disc.

LegendLust

dwanes wrote:

HouseMunkey wrote:

LegendLust wrote:

dwanes wrote:

Why steel? For a winter bike steel is probably the worst choice due to corrosion.
Carbon frames are ideal for winter as they will not corrode ever from winter conditions.

:roll:

Agreed.

There seems to be this idea that steel is going to rust away in 5 minutes....If you just look after it like any other bike it'll last longer than your enthusiasm for it. The great thing about steel is that if you stack it it is way more repairable. I'm sure someone will disagree but I can't be bothered to argue.

I have a 2013 equilibrium 20 frame I built up with 6700 ultegra, hope hoops and some deda finishing kit. I've used it all summer and now it's guarded up for the winter. It has been excellent in every situation. It wont be my summer bike next year but it certainly will get ridden year round. HTH

But i thought the idea of a 'winter bike' was one that you didn't need to look after and could just throw back in the shed after a dark ride home, and didnt treat like the 'other' bike.

Whats the point in the OP calling it a feckin 'winter' bike. The term should be banned.

:roll: :roll:

Mark Alexander

Timothy, you’re right, I was vague. Sorry about it but I was just canvasing opinion and not sure of the detail.
It isn’t just a winter bike but as a 2nd bike but I love the aesthetics and the feel of a steel bike. I have experience with a On One Pompino which is awesome. I’m looking for a geared (I realise the Pomp has a gear) bike which hasn’t got cantiliever brakes.

That’s a great range Timothy. I’m aware that Carbon is a good material for Winter I had a Felt F4 that I used but had to get rid of a bike due to space a year or so ago. My summer bike is a a Felt F3 but has full SRAM Red and I don’t want to wreck it. It’s not adaptable either. As Arlowood mentioned.

I’d recently considered a Ti frame but now having a small addition to take up my time common sense had to prevail price wise. The parents amongst you will appreciate that one. The Equilibrium looks a great option for £400
Veronese68 I considered disk as I hear they’re getting better and more popular but my Power tap won’t fit one.

hypster

Personally I'd back ANY steel frame to outlast ANY carbon frame, especially as a Winter bike.

silverpigeon

Mark, what size frame are you after? I have a 58cm, 2013 equilibrium frame (725), fork and CK headset in mint (and I really do mean mint)condition that I was going to post for sale in the classifieds section. Just need to remove the groupset etc before I take some photo's.PM me if interested

bmxboy10

Love my Equilibrium Disc and the frameset only cost £385! The ride with wider tyres is soooooo smooth 8)

bobmcstuff

I have a condor fratello with 28mm tyres and mudguards, very comfy and smooth.

cycleclinic

I use my "winter" bikes on gritted roads and then put them in the shed. I may lube the chain and that about it. You know what they frames are still fine and somehow the compenentry all still workes the way it should. Don't do this cleaning thing waste of good riding time, or eating time, bath time, telly time anything but cleaning time.

A good winter bike as said has clearance for wide tyres and has a longer wheel base for stable handling in the bends.

thegreatdivide

thecycleclinic wrote:

I use my "winter" bikes on gritted roads and then put them in the shed. I may lube the chain and that about it. You know what they frames are still fine and somehow the compenentry all still workes the way it should. Don't do this cleaning thing waste of good riding time, or eating time, bath time, telly time anything but cleaning time.

A good winter bike as said has clearance for wide tyres and has a longer wheel base for stable handling in the bends.

No.

hammond1975

Have a look at a Thorn Audax mk3, well pleased with mine, great all rounder.

They will build to spec or buy a frame, I am running full 105 on mine.

Mark Alexander

Thanks Silverpigeon, I’m a 52cmframe man as I’m a shorty. I’m looking at the forks and looking for a nice wide option but I’ve never built up a bike. My current ‘winter’ bike is a Ridley Crossbow I bought 2nd hand to do cross. It has no eyelets on the front fork and has cantilever brakes which I can’t stand. The Genisis looksa good I like the idea of a steel fork which incidentally I have never had.

I may use some of the components from the Ridley bars, rear cassette saddle hoods.


before the build, whatever bike it is, how's best to protect it? is it good to get it coated ?

Mark Alexander

I may be getting ahead of myself here but I've been looking at a Mercian. I probably should keep to the idea of a winter bike but I keep seeing these options and thinking why not. I hear they're excellent.

Can anyone give me a practical rather than a technical comparison between steel qualities please?
I've looked at 531, 725 and 853. Thanks

cougie

I dont see why you'd need to go more than 531 for a winter bike.

Impressive 25 time there - is your 10 time out of synch for some reason ?

Mark Alexander

Thanks Cougie. The reason for the discrepancy over mt 10 and 25 time is I was training for a 12hr. My shortest distance I raced was 25 but I did a couple of 10s. I just never hooked one up. No idea why.
The next year when i was training for 10's and 25's life changed.

The more that I look into the frames the more I want to make it more of a general bike not just a winter one. I'm looking to sell the Ridley.

darkhairedlord

The winter bike should be what ever your current summer bike is. End Of!

shing83

I've just built my four season bike around the new Croix de Fer frameset. It's a great little bike, really comfortable and stable, and the disc brakes have come into their own with the crap weather and gravel mud covered streets around town. Can't recommend it enough. I was going to go with the Equilibrium, but I liked the option of running bigger tyres with mudguards. I'm currently on 32mm Duranos, but may go wider for the winter.

cougie

darkhairedlord wrote:

The winter bike should be what ever your current summer bike is. End Of!

Rubbish. Full guards is where its at for the winter and a cheaper groupset.

If you have only one bike then yes - thats fine. But if you have the option to have 2 bikes- go for it.

rafletcher

Mark Alexander wrote:

I may be getting ahead of myself here but I've been looking at a Mercian. I probably should keep to the idea of a winter bike but I keep seeing these options and thinking why not. I hear they're excellent.

Can anyone give me a practical rather than a technical comparison between steel qualities please?
I've looked at 531, 725 and 853. Thanks

725 for a non-race bike. 531 is venerable racing steel, and 853 (if it's anything like the 753 I had tears ago) superb steel, ultra light and very thin.

Stainless is waste of time IMO, though possible less prone to weld cracking that Ti if bare metal is your thing. If it's painted go carbon steel.

rafletcher

shing83 wrote:

I've just built my four season bike around the new Croix de Fer frameset. It's a great little bike, really comfortable and stable, and the disc brakes have come into their own with the crap weather and gravel mud covered streets around town. Can't recommend it enough. I was going to go with the Equilibrium, but I liked the option of running bigger tyres with mudguards. I'm currently on 32mm Duranos, but may go wider for the winter.

And I've gone for the Equilibrium 20 disc (complete bike). I can't see why anyone now would want to run rim brakes on a winter bike. I still have my "summer" bling carbon bike though, with rim brakes