Carbon seatpost cracked straight off at 5 Nm
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darkhairedlord wrote:Right out there with radiation man!
Interesting that the two of them never post on the same threads....
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Imposter wrote:darkhairedlord wrote:Right out there with radiation man!
Interesting that the two of them never post on the same threads....
At Least manc33 offers advice and shares his experiences 0 -
Call me agricultural if you like but the only thing I have snapped in 27 years of fettling, was the face plate for stem. I didn't tighten it in sequence - my fault and apart from a half inch drive torque wrench used for Campag UT chainsets, I do not own and have never used a sub 25nm torque wrench on any part of a bike, ever.
I'm still in one piece.seanoconn - gruagach craic!0 -
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My Easton seat post was genuine and reassuringly thick walled. I flew with it pleny of times so installed it lots. No problems. Then again I just used my Allen key to tighten by feel. Old school.0
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What's trolling about it, because the seatpost is a fake? Because it can easily crack at 5 Nm? What about the genuine ones cracking! It seems funny to say "my fake seatpost broke" I guess but its a popular one though, they sold quite a few of them.
Maybe its just that I am the only guy to actually put one on a bike and every other order was by people selling them straight on.
I tried my "slipping" seatpost clamp again just now (with 12 Nm on each rail of the saddle) and it still slipped back. Thats 24 Nm overall and it slips. :shock: Thats "infinite adjustment" for ya. Its the one with flattened washers, but come on 24 Nm... this shows how smoothed off the washers have become.
With that SMP you have no choice but to have the rails slanting back, if the saddle is to be level. That saddle is really comfortable when its exactly level and the reach is right. You sort of sit in a little "hammock" and its actually (don't wanna start flame wars) probably comparable to that Brooks Colt I used to ride on. The SMP is one you can really "wedge" yourself onto and do some hard pedalling. It even seemed to take some weight off my hands and balance me better. Then its not a real one so who knows if its the right shape. :roll:
All I know is it puts the "Toupe" (not real either) to shame for comfort. The 129mm SMP is exactly the right width over the 143mm Toupe, although a thinner Toupe exists that I would think is better, but the 143mm one cut the insides of my legs up, ended up sliding forward all the time sitting on the front of the saddle to avoid the fat back... a bit like tonight when my SMP tilted back again, sat on the nose all the way home lol... it sort of levelled out again just as I got home. :roll: Probably the first time I went FOR the potholes - to try to bump the saddle back level again.
inb4 "real ones don't tilt back" etc :P0 -
I'm picturing the bicycle equivalent of a circus clown car.0
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Manc33 wrote:What's trolling about it, because the seatpost is a fake? Because it can easily crack at 5 Nm? What about the genuine ones cracking! It seems funny to say "my fake seatpost broke" I guess but its a popular one though, they sold quite a few of them.
Maybe its just that I am the only guy to actually put one on a bike and every other order was by people selling them straight on.
I tried my "slipping" seatpost clamp again just now (with 12 Nm on each rail of the saddle) and it still slipped back. Thats 24 Nm overall and it slips. :shock: Thats "infinite adjustment" for ya. Its the one with flattened washers, but come on 24 Nm... this shows how smoothed off the washers have become.
With that SMP you have no choice but to have the rails slanting back, if the saddle is to be level. That saddle is really comfortable when its exactly level and the reach is right. You sort of sit in a little "hammock" and its actually (don't wanna start flame wars) probably comparable to that Brooks Colt I used to ride on. The SMP is one you can really "wedge" yourself onto and do some hard pedalling. It even seemed to take some weight off my hands and balance me better. Then its not a real one so who knows if its the right shape. :roll: All I know is it puts the "Toupe" (not real either) to shame for comfort. The 129mm SMP is exactly the right width over the 143mm Toupe, although a thinner Toupe exists that I would think is better, but the 143mm one cut the insides of my legs up, ended up sliding forward all the time sitting on the front of the saddle to avoid the fat back... a bit like tonight when my SMP tilted back again, sat on the nose all the way home lol... it sort of levelled out again just as I got home. :roll: Probably the first time I went FOR the potholes - to try to bump the saddle back level again.
inb4 "real ones don't tilt back" etc :P
Have you ever thought about giving up cycling and taking up trainspotting?0 -
His autosig is interesting
"Whatever bike mechanics get paid, it isn't enough."
A reflection of the crap his LBS mechanics have to put up with?0 -
Apparently I'm in the minority at 3nm. I've had a thompson seatpost that said 3nm, my CAAD10 says 3nm and a friends BMC says 3nm. Everyone else seems to be 4 or more!0
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I do my alu seatposts to 5nm and my carbon ones to 3nm with paste in and none of them slip. I'm 11st 6lbs (73kg or thereabouts) so not a lightweight.0
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i guess it depends on the tolerance's of the frame. My caad8 seatpost just falls in to the tube, where as my ribble needs to be gently worked in and takes very little tightning to stop movement.0
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Those Thomson Elite aren't as pricey as I thought, after seeing the price of the masterpiece I never looked at the price of the elite (too scared to), but its under £50 brand new and arguably nothing tops it (except their 40g lighter "better" seatpost - the masterpiece). Wait, I can't get one, it has only 16mm setback and I need 25mm. I need 32mm really but what are the chances.
All this is because I have flat bars on, road bars extend the reach by about 130mm. If I had drops on again I would just have my Brooks Colt on again (with the short rails).0 -
31.6mm SB25 211grams.
They've actually sent me a 25mm setback replacement instead of the original 32mm, which is ok as the 32 was overkill, ordered it before really getting fit properly.0 -
My genuine 25mm setback FSA K-force light:
States 7Nm torque for the bolts.
My fake one, needed 25mm+ setback and it was cheap;
States 8Nm + a max weight of 90kg.
I can tell you now, being an engineer and having studied and used composite materials for a number of years, the genuine one is of substantial quality, whether this equates to stronger is not easy to quantify.If the bar ain't bending, you're just pretending0 -
adam0bmx0 wrote:I can tell you now, being an engineer and having studied and used composite materials for a number of years, the genuine one is of substantial quality, whether this equates to stronger is not easy to quantify.
Aren't you contradicting yourself a bit there?0 -
Manc33 wrote:Those Thomson Elite aren't as pricey as I thought, after seeing the price of the masterpiece I never looked at the price of the elite (too scared to), but its under £50 brand new and arguably nothing tops it (except their 40g lighter "better" seatpost - the masterpiece). Wait, I can't get one, it has only 16mm setback and I need 25mm. I need 32mm really but what are the chances.
All this is because I have flat bars on, road bars extend the reach by about 130mm. If I had drops on again I would just have my Brooks Colt on again (with the short rails).
So you're adjusting your saddle set back based upon bar reach? It just gets worse every time you post...
you don't need a carbon post. You need a lobotomy0 -
darkhairedlord wrote:Manc33 wrote:Those Thomson Elite aren't as pricey as I thought, after seeing the price of the masterpiece I never looked at the price of the elite (too scared to), but its under £50 brand new and arguably nothing tops it (except their 40g lighter "better" seatpost - the masterpiece). Wait, I can't get one, it has only 16mm setback and I need 25mm. I need 32mm really but what are the chances.
All this is because I have flat bars on, road bars extend the reach by about 130mm. If I had drops on again I would just have my Brooks Colt on again (with the short rails).
So you're adjusting your saddle set back based upon bar reach? It just gets worse every time you post...
you don't need a carbon post. You need a lobotomy
Yes because when it had drop bars, the reach was fine, I had a Brooks Colt on and didn't have a setback seatpost.
Putting straight bars on has reduced the reach by 13 cm compared to where hoods were.
I have tried different stems on and have got a Ritchey adjustable one now because of my lower back (the original reason to go to flat bars). Not sure where the lobotomy comes in.0 -
Manc33 wrote:Not sure where the lobotomy comes in.
Add it to the list of things you need to google...0 -
Not heard of Aliexpress before, but some of the reviews are not very favourable:
" Worthless buyer protection, Bogus goods, worse then burning your money"
"Complete Scam Artists! Do Not Purchase ANYTHING from Aliexpress no matter what."
"A dishonest Company conning the public taking no responsibility"
"FRAUD!! SCAM!! NO REFUND!! NO PRODUCT COMES!! CONARTISTS!!"
"Riddled with fakes, appalling customer service."Cannondale Killer V
Trek 6500
Cannondale Bad Boy
LOOK KG176
Giant TCR Composite 10 -
Manc33 wrote:Yes because when it had drop bars, the reach was fine, I had a Brooks Colt on and didn't have a setback seatpostPutting straight bars on has reduced the reach by 13 cm compared to where hoods were. I have tried different stems on and have got a Ritchey adjustable one now because of my lower back (the original reason to go to flat bars). Not sure where the lobotomy comes in.
The lobotomy comes in because there is stacks of really good, free advice on the forums and you don't listen to any of it.
Saddle set back and reach are two independent things. Saddle setback is determined by the relative length of your leg bones. If you have long thighs, you need more setback and vice versa. The type of handlebars you use has nothing to do with that. You need to set the bike up first to fit your legs. Once you have the right setback/saddle position, then that's it - you don't change it any more.
If reach changes due to handlebar changes, you compensate by changing the stem. But you leave the seatpost alone.
Just listen to people rather than continually making the wrong choice and complaining that the manufacturers aren't providing you with solutions to problems that only you have. Faster than a tent.......0 -
It's worrying that with "logic" like this you're still allowed converse with the public. I believe you may have a fault and I suggest you submit yourself for some diagnostic tests. I think you may have cracked. Are you a fake carbon seatpost?Manc33 wrote:How can anyone claiming it cracked because it is fake have any point when genuine ones crack?
It might be embarrassing for anyone else to post but knowing real ones also crack, not really.
How come both my "fake" saddles aren't cracking?
Carbon seatposts are a no-no for some reason (I wouldn't have a genuine carbon seatpost after this and finding the real FSA one has cracked on people, the real Thomson Elite can crack, a real Fizik Cyrano cracked and so on).
The only difference is with a real one you might get your money back, but then it is always a lot of money like £60 for a seatpost. Nothing else "fake" I have ever got has broken or not functioned as it is meant to, only this.
Why aren't the rails on my fake SMP cracking at 12 Nm per rail? Thats what it takes to stop it slipping backwards on my current seatpost. The one where the notches have flattened and there's nothing to grip (because: 6061 aluminium). You can't tighten a bolt at 12Nm onto a metal notch thats 6061 it just crushes it, the bolt is steel.
I did find a metal seatpost on AliExpress for £9 last night, but it has that one bolt design... but its alright because it does not have infinite adjustment. I only can't have that if it has a smooth curve on the clamp. I went from wanting infinite adjustment to hating it.0 -
Post your bike up in "your road bike" then we might understand where you're coming from...0
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Show me a stem thats 220mm long.
That's 90mm for its normal length then add 130mm because it is flat bars not drops.
Since stems so ludicrously long do not exist and wouldn't even be safe if they did, yes I am putting the saddle back. Why? Because I have to.
If you think a guy is only putting his seat back to get more reach without taking into account he lost 13cm on his reach beforehand... you're not thinking! You're just automatically telling me to get a lobotomy etc and not reading my posts. I can understand most people are probably in a rush and see hundreds of silly posts on here every week.
Before the usual "your frame is too small" not true because I could just put drops on and my Brooks saddle with an inline seatpost the way it was at first. I guess -25mm for the inline seatpost -25mm for the Brooks saddle - thats half the reach compensated for already. Then I just put a 40mm shorter stem on and it was about right.
Had the same problems with my Triban 3. On that bike on drops it was too much reach, on flat bars it was perfect. Now I am on a bike where drops are perfect and flat bars is too little reach. A lot of people buying that Triban 3 said that about it, unusually long top tube.0 -
Manc33 wrote:Since stems so ludicrously long do not exist and wouldn't even be safe if they did, yes I am putting the saddle back. Why? Because I have to.
Saddle setback should be set in relation to the BB - I think you've been told that before. You clearly don't what you're doing, so I would seek professional help.Manc33 wrote:I can understand most people are probably in a rush and see hundreds of silly posts on here every week.
There's definitely a correlation there somewhere...0 -
This is like riding a TT bike as your daily 'driver' then buying a mountain bike and trying to set it up so it feels like your TT bike.
Nutter.0 -
Imposter wrote:
Saddle setback should be set in relation to the BB - I think you've been told that before. You clearly don't what you're doing, so I would seek professional help.
For his bike set up or mental health?I'm sorry you don't believe in miracles0 -
Manc33 wrote:Show me a stem thats 220mm long.
That's 90mm for its normal length then add 130mm because it is flat bars not drops.
Since stems so ludicrously long do not exist and wouldn't even be safe if they did, yes I am putting the saddle back. Why? Because I have to.
If you think a guy is only putting his seat back to get more reach without taking into account he lost 13cm on his reach beforehand... you're not thinking! You're just automatically telling me to get a lobotomy etc and not reading my posts. I can understand most people are probably in a rush and see hundreds of silly posts on here every week.
Before the usual "your frame is too small" not true because I could just put drops on and my Brooks saddle with an inline seatpost the way it was at first. I guess -25mm for the inline seatpost -25mm for the Brooks saddle - thats half the reach compensated for already. Then I just put a 40mm shorter stem on and it was about right.
Had the same problems with my Triban 3. On that bike on drops it was too much reach, on flat bars it was perfect. Now I am on a bike where drops are perfect and flat bars is too little reach. A lot of people buying that Triban 3 said that about it, unusually long top tube.
I went away on Friday and had a great weekend in Cornwall, drove around 500 miles, had a couple of nice meals, went for a few long walks, got home tonight.....and blow me, he's still droning on about the same old crap!
Wonder if AliExpress do a self awareness course...or a cheaper fake one?0
