Seat tube - internal wear.
jimothy78
Posts: 1,407
Hi all,
just bought my first dropper post (specialized command post IR) and although it functions very nicely when not mounted, I've found that when the seatpost clamp is done up tight enough to stop it slipping around, there's a noticable increase in friction in the action of the post.
I've also noticed in the past (with standard posts) that QR clamps have to be done up very tight to stop the seat slipping down gradually, and I assume that this is because the interior of the seat tube has worn after years of raising and lowering seats in gritty conditions. I assume that this means that I'm effectively over-tightening the clamp to stop the post moving, which is the cause of the extra drag on the dropper.
Now, the instructions that come with the dropper post say to use lube when mounting it in a metal frame but I'm wondering if there's any reason I couldn't use something else (eg carbon assembly paste) to allow firmer fixing without over-tightening the clamp. Failing that, what about loctite or something similar - or is this just asking for a post I can never remove?
Thanks in advance,
Jim
just bought my first dropper post (specialized command post IR) and although it functions very nicely when not mounted, I've found that when the seatpost clamp is done up tight enough to stop it slipping around, there's a noticable increase in friction in the action of the post.
I've also noticed in the past (with standard posts) that QR clamps have to be done up very tight to stop the seat slipping down gradually, and I assume that this is because the interior of the seat tube has worn after years of raising and lowering seats in gritty conditions. I assume that this means that I'm effectively over-tightening the clamp to stop the post moving, which is the cause of the extra drag on the dropper.
Now, the instructions that come with the dropper post say to use lube when mounting it in a metal frame but I'm wondering if there's any reason I couldn't use something else (eg carbon assembly paste) to allow firmer fixing without over-tightening the clamp. Failing that, what about loctite or something similar - or is this just asking for a post I can never remove?
Thanks in advance,
Jim
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Comments
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My Reverb slipped until I swapped out the QR clamp for a bolted one and then tightened it to the correct torque. Hasn't slipped since and that's just with a bit of standard Finish Line grease. Carbon assembly paste would help though. Just don't over tighten the clamp whatever you do, or use Loctite.Current:
NukeProof Mega FR 2012
Cube NuRoad 2018
Previous:
2015 Genesis CdF 10, 2014 Cube Hyde Race, 2012 NS Traffic, 2007 Specialized SX Trail, 2005 Specialized Demo 80 -
All of the above plus if its a really sloppy fit you might be able to fit a thin shim into the tube. get an aluminium coke or beer can and cut it down with scissors and try that. Count your fingers afterwards though the thin alu will cut you like a bacon slicer.Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap0
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Carbon paste has a massive effect, so go with that.A Flock of Birds
+ some other bikes.0