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Bike direction tube moves back and forth

just a nicknamejust a nickname Posts: 30
edited October 2014 in Road general

The headset* moves (not a lot) on the bike. I have another one and it doesn't do that. I looked on the web and it was suggested to hold the break* and tighten the headset but that didn't work. I wonder if there is anything to do for that (is it normal?) I bought this bike used two days ago and is in a relatively good condition. ... IvpCa?dl=0


PS: Forgive my multiple threads!


  • StillGoingStillGoing Posts: 5,207
    edited October 2014
    intentionally deleted
    I ride a bike. Doesn't make me green or a tree hugger. I drive a car too.
  • qubeqube Posts: 1,899
    WTF is a direction tube and why would you hold its beak?

    PS: Forgive my ignorance.
  • ... Tried to upload here but first said file was too big, then gave an error after I compressed the image.

    I didn't know that bike part and looked in french the name. My translation could be incorrect. When I hold the handlebar and apply a pressure back and forth, I can see the tube (where the fork goes in I guess), move a bit back and forth. It doesn't do that on my Opus Andante 2008. The bike with the issue is a Jamis Ventura 2008.

    Edit: I think the correct term is the headset.
  • d_o_gd_o_g Posts: 286
    No, that shouldn't happen.

    Your headset is either worn or needs to be adjusted.
  • qubeqube Posts: 1,899
    From your description, it would seem the headset bearings are shot.

    I'm assuming it's a quill stem?

    There is a bearing race in there (top and bottom) with some ball bearings and probably a load of swarf too.
  • Thanks guys, found this: ... ngs-22225/
    Looks easy to replace!
    Now I need to find the proper bearings... Where to look for?
  • OuijaOuija Posts: 1,386
    It's a A-Head system and my god you've got a lot of spacers on that thing. I take it you've done the obvious and loosened the stem bolts, tightened the top cap and then re-tightened the stem bolts? If not you might want to try that. With that many spacers it's harder to prevent play as the spacers themselves can move about a bit.
  • Tried to tighten it further but it's nearly impossible. I've read that I shouldn't apply too much pressure. Am I doing it wrong?
  • I use a AER headset which has a very delicate Nora glide bearing. I just tighten the top bolt until there is no backward and forward movement [brakes applied]. It does not have to be tightened tight just enough to stop any movement.
    Then I tighten the stem bolts, again I don't have to tighten them up with any excessive force.
    Sounds like your bearings are just worn and I agree that using a lot of spacers will not help.
    Slam your stem, you know it makes sense :wink:
  • Tried to tighten it further but it's nearly impossible. I've read that I shouldn't apply too much pressure. Am I doing it wrong?

    Did you loosen the bolts on the stem before trying to tighten?
  • jgsijgsi Posts: 5,061
    Good grief.. Blimey, sorry mate but 45mm of spacers is just not right.... so its alloy but even so, material stresses and all that plus it looks a pigs ear of a bike fit.
  • OuijaOuija Posts: 1,386
    Be better off removing some spacers and flipping the stem upside down if you want to keep the handlebars at the same height.

    And i've never found that worn sealed bearings affect the headsets preload either. Just gets a bit rough and notchy, not actually loose.
  • diydiy Posts: 6,473
    Remove top cap - have a look in the tube - see if you've pulled the star fangled nut/stem tube nut all the way to the top. If you have you'll need something like a hammer and some old copper pipe to tap it down a bit. Otherwise loosen stem bolts and tighten topcap bolt until play goes or steering is too stiff. then retighten stem bolts.

    Second option is to strip and clean the headset before you worry about replacing.
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