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Installing cables/outers on a new frame.

mattrixdesign2mattrixdesign2 Posts: 644
edited October 2014 in Workshop
Got a CX frame I am building up, all done now other than cabling and bar tape. No issue with the cables for the disc brakes. What I am not sure is on the gear cabling. Its "internal cabling", therefore the entry for both front and rear mech is at the top of the down tube with an exit near the bb.

What is best practice for routing from the levers? Should the left lever cable cross over to the R.hand side, and the right lever cross over to the L.hand side, or left lever, left hand side, right lever right hand side? Or does it not even mater? Current keeping them on their respective sides, but it doesn't quite look right, they kind of bend out at the head tube, crossing them over may tidy things up? Or shorten the cable? Still have some cabling to feed through the outers, may see how it goes for a while.

Posts

  • PokerfacePokerface Posts: 8,640
    I normally cross my cables over (or did before I switched to electronic shifting).

    But when the cables go in the frame, is there just one entry point? And then you just feed them out again at the BB? A lot of frames with internal cabling have specific entry points for the front and rear mechs - and feed the cables out in the correct spots. That would help determine where to run the cables.

    End of day- don't think it matters how you run them as long as you leave enough slack to turn the bars fully to either side without pulling the cables out!
  • This is my first "internally routed" frame. Its more simplistic that I expected, essentially two cable entry points at the top of the down tube, feed the cables in, then where the down tube interfaces with the BB there is an inch opening (as if its not been welded up, but on purpose!), essentially a gap, the cable pops out with a bit of poking! Then you have the usual guide under the bottom bracket to take the gear cable to the rear mech, and up to the front mech.

    Which leads me to one more thing! Wired up the front mech, then realised I have no cable adjustment, is this essential on a front mech? I reckon I could get away with out it, only possible adjusters I could use would be the in-line types, as they wont go into the frame for obvious reasons.
  • rafletcherrafletcher Posts: 1,391
    No adjustment needed on front mech. I've never had any on any of my bikes.
  • PokerfacePokerface Posts: 8,640
    Great - if there are two holes int he frame, then the cable from the left shifter goes into the one for the front mech, the right shifter goes into the hole for the rear mech. Those cable will feed out of your bars near the stem and up onto the top tube. Probably from the same side they come out of so no cross-over.
  • g00seg00se Posts: 2,218
    Whatever suits your cabling.

    I cross over - it sounds like a similar frame to mine. Even though it's a 'cross bike, the gear cables go through the down tube ('normally', externally routed CX cables all go over the top tube so save them from mud). Rather than having individual exits, there's a slot for both to come out at the bottom.

    By crossing the cables within the down tube, the bends in the housing around the head tube are less severe and so avoids more friction.

    As for no adjuster, I used an inline adjuster just before the cable entered the down tube. I know you don't have to, but the ability to fine tune the front mech can be useful - especially if you bash the front mech on a 'cross ride.
  • Thanks chaps.

    Its a Cube frame, I may have a play with it, I just don't like how it sits now, the cable is quite stiff, it may loosen up, I may be able to bend it a bit. I am trying to keep the lines flowing nicely for the least friction.

    g00se - so you are saying that (as a rule) its perhaps best to cross to avoid friction, may see how both options look. I reckon I can take an inch of the outer too.
  • DeVlaeminckDeVlaeminck Posts: 5,607
    Have you got a local Cube dealer, could maybe see how they have cabled them up?
    AFC Mercia women - sign for us
  • g00seg00se Posts: 2,218
    Ah - hi - just realised it's you that bought the same frame!

    I think crossing the front tube slackens the angles a bit, especially with a short front tube.

    IMG00038-20100607-1518.jpg

    VS

    NIK5423-661x440.jpg
  • Yes its me - and its been an expensive and time consuming exercise :lol:

    Mine looks more like the Trek (bottom pick), I am not used to it, hence not sure I like it. Having said that, I reckon those cables on the pic above are short and tight?

    Will post pics when done!
  • g00seg00se Posts: 2,218
    Yup - the Trek has them crossed over so should run a bit smoother. this is how I did my Cube:

    IMAG0644_1.jpg

    * ignore the positioning of the brake-cable inline adjusters - just filling the gaps where the cable originally had interruptor levers :)
  • right I may cross mine over then... my looks like the trek, but not crossed over if that makes sense, they flare out!
  • g00seg00se Posts: 2,218
    Some Rock N Roll Cable Magic won't hurt either, especially with all the mud flying around.
  • aye
  • All done, kept the cable on the same side as the lever. Looks fine. Seems to operate fine.
  • this is how it looks

    IMG_20141025_161558_283_zpsdbdaa0ee.jpg
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