Extending the life of expensive brake blocks

paulbnix
paulbnix Posts: 632
edited October 2014 in Workshop
The bike I built in May has SRAM Apex and the brakes are fitted with OEM Swissstop Black brake blocks.
I have been very impressed with the performance of the brakes and during a fettling session I noticed that the slots in the brake blocks are no longer there.
So in 2300 dry(ish) miles I have worn out the blocks. Presumably this is part of the reason I am impressed with the performance.
These blocks are not cheap at about £10 per wheel so I decided to extend the life by cutting some more slots as at least 1/2 of the brake block depth is still there.
Obviously I will have to take care that I don't end up with metal on metal but are there any other issues with this?

Comments

  • Don't brake and take your chances...

    Realistically, if you can't afford to use them, don't buy them
    left the forum March 2023
  • robbo2011
    robbo2011 Posts: 1,017
    Try the SwissStop BXP pads. they last much, much longer than the black ones.
  • imposter2.0
    imposter2.0 Posts: 12,028
    Don't brake and take your chances...

    Realistically, if you can't afford to use them, don't buy them

    ^^ this
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    Don't ride in the rain or on dirty roads either ;-)
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • dj58
    dj58 Posts: 2,223
    You don't want to be modifying brake pads like that, you may compromise the integrity and have them suddenly disintegrate leaving you with no braking. The groves are there to prevent brake noise and to act as a wear indicator.

    The black pads have a soft compound that does wear quickly but is kind to your rims, as mentioned try the blue BXP http://www.swissstop.ch/tech/compounds/bxp/ or some other brand like koolstop.
  • Pokerface
    Pokerface Posts: 7,960
    Plus, aren't those slots in the blocks there as wear indicators!?

    Meaning, when the 'slots' disappear, it's time to replace the blocks. Cutting new slots in is just asking for trouble and you're wearing the blocks down past the point where it's safe.


    Or am I wrong about these slots?
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    Your right as the slot also help clear water.

    Also soft pads don't wear your rims as fast which is a good thing!
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • Wash the rims of your wheels and scrub the muck from your brake mech/pads after any grubby rides. It makes me cringe when I sense that grime grinding away at my expensive components.
  • matt-h
    matt-h Posts: 847
    Wash the rims of your wheels and scrub the muck from your brake mech/pads after any grubby rides. It makes me cringe when I sense that grime grinding away at my expensive components.

    This.
    I often wipe the (wheel) rims with a baby wipe on return from a ride.
    Its a good chance to check your tyres as well.
    You will be surprised at the crap that sticks.
    I also remove the tyre every couple of months and scrub the braking surface with i fine grade wire wool.
    Bring them up like new and i never have a problem with poor braking

    Matt
  • I hate the noise of brakes on wet gritty rims, the worst is when I am visiting Anglesey, and do a CX route that goes over sand... it always rains, and sand always get on my bike, the noise is horrific. Then you suffer the grey sludge sticking to the frame and forks.

    Even if the "expensive" pads are £10 a pair, you are going to wear the rear out quicker than the front, even if its 1 or 2 changes a years its hardly going to brake ;) the bank. My bigger concern is damaged to the rims over time.

    If you want to avoid this, consider a "winter" bike for bad days or winter riding... even better get a bike with discs! Not sure that these options are cheaper than brake pads :)
  • norvernrob
    norvernrob Posts: 1,448
    Pokerface wrote:
    Plus, aren't those slots in the blocks there as wear indicators!?

    Meaning, when the 'slots' disappear, it's time to replace the blocks. Cutting new slots in is just asking for trouble and you're wearing the blocks down past the point where it's safe.


    Or am I wrong about these slots?

    Sounds right to me.

    The extra material is obviously there for a reason, probably to guard against failure and/or the blocks disintegrating. If it wasn't needed the manufacturers wouldn't waste materials on it, the pads would just be thinner. Cutting slots in it and further weakening what's left of the pads sounds like a disaster waiting to happen.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    "you are going to wear the rear out quicker than the front"

    I rarely use the rear brake so I think I am wearing out the front pads and rim faster than the rear, despite the fact the rear gets more muck thrown up on it.
  • Pokerface
    Pokerface Posts: 7,960
    keef66 wrote:
    "you are going to wear the rear out quicker than the front"

    I rarely use the rear brake so I think I am wearing out the front pads and rim faster than the rear, despite the fact the rear gets more muck thrown up on it.


    +1
    Majority of braking normally comes from the front, so these pads should wear out first. Using the rear brake more than the front just leads to higher risk of locking up the wheel and skidding. Harder to lock up the front as you can throw your weight behind it.
  • Hmmm. There are times when I certainly use the rear more, worrying the front will go from underneath me in the wet.
  • Pokerface
    Pokerface Posts: 7,960
    edited October 2014
    Hmmm. There are times when I certainly use the rear more, worrying the front will go from underneath me in the wet.


    It's not gospel, but here's a guide:

    http://sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html


    He does mention about using the rear more in the wet. I personally use both brakes together but heavier on the front most of the time.
  • Well I recall one time in the lakes. Descending "The Struggle" in torrid non stops rain. Neither brakes were effective... but when I got to the bottom (thankfull I was alive and well) I know the rear pads were shot, front were OK. I reckon I wear 2 rear pairs for every front pair. Worth me reading it up on it, may be I am doing it all wrong!
  • frisbee
    frisbee Posts: 691
    It's not so obvious on a road bike (no suspension) but when you brake there is a weight transfer to the front. Apply the brakes when you aren't on the bike and you can easily drag the wheels across the ground, sit on the bike and you can't, weight gives the tyre the ability to generate force.

    Top motorbike racers actually have the back wheel hovering off the ground when braking.
  • gozzy
    gozzy Posts: 640
    I don't think I'd ever be tempted to mess with what is going to stop me, when I need to stop, for the sake of £20.
    I certainly wouldn't be happy hitting 40mph or more on a descent. I want to be able to ride with confidence in my equipment at all times and I wouldn't have that confidence on bodged brakes.
    Is 2300 miles bad for a set of blocks? I'm not sure, but if they're worn, they're worn. I'd say, replace them, don't bodge them, it's not worth the risk.
  • Pokerface
    Pokerface Posts: 7,960
    Gozzy wrote:
    I don't think I'd ever be tempted to mess with what is going to stop me, when I need to stop, for the sake of £20.
    I certainly wouldn't be happy hitting 40mph or more on a descent. I want to be able to ride with confidence in my equipment at all times and I wouldn't have that confidence on bodged brakes.
    Is 2300 miles bad for a set of blocks? I'm not sure, but if they're worn, they're worn. I'd say, replace them, don't bodge them, it's not worth the risk.


    I've gone through a set of brake blocks in under 500 miles in the last 3 weeks. But I've been doing 25km descent at 70-80kph on a daily basis so have been very hard on them. At home in the UK, I might have set last me 1000s of miles on flatter roads. It's all relative.
  • norvernrob
    norvernrob Posts: 1,448
    My Swissstop black pads were knackered after 1000 miles, I'd say 2300 is really good! My rides are all hilly though so more heavy braking than someone in a flatter area.
  • paulbnix
    paulbnix Posts: 632
    I took my modified brake pads out for a ride today and they were just fine.
    I have ordered some new blocks (not Swissstop) and I'll see if I am as impressed with their performance.
    If not I'll pay the premium and be happy with my braking.
    Thanks for your comments.
  • Bar Shaker
    Bar Shaker Posts: 2,313
    In the winter, when cleaning your bike, give the pad face a light sanding to remove some material and all the bits of grit that are stuck in that pad material. The pad holds the grit like cutting teeth, ready to grind away your brake track.

    If still using carbon wheels, this is very important to do.

    Balance the cost of pads with the cost of your wheels. If your pads are shot, buy new ones.
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