Need expert advise for an endurance bike

epoints

Hi,

I need your advice in picking my next bike. I have been biking for about a year and put in only about 2500 miles and my first bike is the Cannondale CAADD 10 105 which I like very much. It's nimble and tough. I don't worry about trashing the bike which i don't , but sometimes I am just not too careful.

I do find long distance ride to be a bit harsh on my hands from road vibrations and I assumed that this is from the stiffness of the aluminum bike. In my last century, I have a very hard time finishing the last 5 miles riding over deteriorating roads. I also find climbing hills on 105 was a bit taxing because of the weight. I am 50 and about 142 lb. I have also found new joy in bike touring and looking for a bike that would allow me to ride longer in various conditions.

Here are the choices that I am considering (range from lowest price to highest)

1. 2014 Cannondale Supersix EVO Hi-Mod 1 Dura Ace
2. 2014 SYNAPSE HI-MOD DISC DURA ACE DI2
3. Colnago C60 with Dura Ace

Appreciate any input...

marcusjb

Whichever one of them takes nice big tyres (25-28mm ideally).

There's no such thing as a typical long distance bike. I see everything from hefty steel tourers to very high end carbon on rides. There is only one characteristic that most of our bikes have - larger tyres. Virtually everyone will run wider tyres. Nothing makes more difference to comfort than tyres. Luckily the rest of the world is catching up with us and there are more and more frames with big clearances.

I doubt you will really feel the weight difference between 105 and Dura Ace, but, in general, you don't see much Dura Ace in distance riding - it isn't designed for the mega miles. 105 and Ultegra are common. I have 6700 and my main distance bike is somewhere over 40000km now and the drivetrain is still going strong, one chainring replacement and, obviously, regular chain and then cassette changes.

Of course, it does all depend on what you call long distances.

napoleond

Can you not fit 25 or 28 mm tyres?
That'll have far bigger impact than a new frame.

Dippydog3

epoints wrote:

Hi,

I need your advice in picking my next bike. I have been biking for about a year and put in only about 2500 miles and my first bike is the Cannondale CAADD 10 105 which I like very much. It's nimble and tough. I don't worry about trashing the bike which i don't , but sometimes I am just not too careful.

I do find long distance ride to be a bit harsh on my hands from road vibrations and I assumed that this is from the stiffness of the aluminum bike. In my last century, I have a very hard time finishing the last 5 miles riding over deteriorating roads. I also find climbing hills on 105 was a bit taxing because of the weight. I am 50 and about 142 lb. I have also found new joy in bike touring and looking for a bike that would allow me to ride longer in various conditions.

Here are the choices that I am considering (range from lowest price to highest)

1. 2014 Cannondale Supersix EVO Hi-Mod 1 Dura Ace
2. 2014 SYNAPSE HI-MOD DISC DURA ACE DI2
3. Colnago C60 with Dura Ace

Appreciate any input...

If you weigh only 142lb any tiredness you feel it not down to the weight of the bike!

Having said that, who am I to talk someone out of buying N+1.

I do longish rides (six hours) and the thing that makes the big difference to me is 25 or 28mm tyres.

JayKosta

epoints wrote:

...
I do find long distance ride to be a bit harsh on my hands from road vibrations and I assumed that this is from the stiffness of the aluminum bike. In my last century, I have a very hard time finishing the last 5 miles riding over deteriorating roads.
...

======================
Perhaps the brake hoods are a little too far forward, which places more of your weight on your hands. If you feel too 'stretched out' or too much weight on hands, move the hoods to a better position.
Also try to find gloves with more padding, and 'double wrap' the bar tape.

If hills are a problem, get a cassette that gives a lower gear - probably a 28T or larger.

Jay Kosta
Endwell NY USA

Grill

Just get a wider tyre and run it at a lower psi. If the problem persists double-wrap the bar tape.

dj58

If you want a bike to ride in all conditions for longer, take a look at the 2015 Genesis Equilibrium Disc of something similar. http://www.genesisbikes.co.uk/blog/15/0 ... brium-disc

animal72

DJ58 wrote:

If you want a bike to ride in all conditions for longer, take a look at the 2015 Genesis Equilibrium Disc of something similar. http://www.genesisbikes.co.uk/blog/15/0 ... brium-disc

I've got an Equilibrium Disc, but I've also got a Wilier.
It's swings and roundabouts for me... The Genesis is more forgiving but the Wilier takes less effort.
I'll happily do 100+ days on either.

meanredspider

A bike fit isn't a bad idea too.

My Volagi was designed for endurance (and discs) a little ahead of the current batch of bikes claim either and both. The frame is designed to be a little more compliant in the vertical axis and it has a tall head tube. The guys that designed it do double century races. I had a bike fit with the Bike Whisperer which shortened the stem a bit to take weight off my hands. I've fitted carbon bars for a little more compliance and a little more width to spread the load. And I fitted a Toupe RBX gel saddle. Finally, I run 25C tyres but I believe it can take anything up to 32+ The wheels are wider to suit. It's a great bike and comfortable for up to 12 hours (my longest day) at least.

Philby

If you are finding climbing hills and finding them taxing it is unlikely to be the chainset. New lighter wheels will help as will fitness and practice.

To reduce impact on your hands you could replace the existing bar tape with a cork tape such as Cinelli cork tape, or double wrap tape. Also look at the gloves and mitts you use - you can get some with gel inserts which might help. As suggested elsewhere wider tyres will help.

Regarding bikes have you looked at the new Canyon Endurace which seems popular among posters on here, or the Rose CGF - both are fantastic value for money.

epoints

you guys are awesome! the feedbacks are just in time for my bike trials tomorrow.

i see a common theme about wider tires and I did not even think of that (newbie). Wont wider tires create more resistance and increase in effort (another newbie question)? Doublewrap is another good idea. How come my lbs did not suggest that...

I believe both Colnago and Synapse can take a wider tire but my coworker recommend against c60 because of its aggressive geometry. I did not know biking can get so technical.

epoints

will a shorter stem accomplish the same thing as changing the hood position? I was thinking changing stem from 100mm to 80mm to see if that improves the reach..

JayKosta wrote:

epoints wrote:

...
I do find long distance ride to be a bit harsh on my hands from road vibrations and I assumed that this is from the stiffness of the aluminum bike. In my last century, I have a very hard time finishing the last 5 miles riding over deteriorating roads.
...

======================
Perhaps the brake hoods are a little too far forward, which places more of your weight on your hands. If you feel too 'stretched out' or too much weight on hands, move the hoods to a better position.
Also try to find gloves with more padding, and 'double wrap' the bar tape.

If hills are a problem, get a cassette that gives a lower gear - probably a 28T or larger.

Jay Kosta
Endwell NY USA

79543dean

I have a Felt Z1. Best bike i've ever ridden for long climbing days which is exactly what the "Z series" was built for. I think the first carbon version is the Z4?

I run it with 25mm tyres.

cougie

Wider tyres are actually meant to be faster with less rolling resistance. Certainly I've gone to 25mm and it seems as fast as before.

Theres no way that going to DA from 105 is a noticeable difference in weight on the bike.

What PSI do you have in the tyres ? I'd get some Conti GP4000s and try about 80 PSI or so. Maybe even less as you aren't heavy.

And you can be on the lightest bike in the world and hills are still hard work. Its a b*tch defying gravity.

And the LBS are more interested in getting you to buy a new bike than sorting the one you have I'd think.

I'd not jump to the Colnago cos where do you go from there ? Its like a dream bike for a lot of cyclists.

meanredspider

cougie wrote:

Wider tyres are actually meant to be faster with less rolling resistance.

To a point. Aero resistance also builds with width (greater frontal area). If this weren't the case, we'd all be on Fat bikes. 25-28 seems like a good compromise range for road use.

letap73

epoints wrote:

you guys are awesome! the feedbacks are just in time for my bike trials tomorrow.

i see a common theme about wider tires and I did not even think of that (newbie). Wont wider tires create more resistance and increase in effort (another newbie question)? Doublewrap is another good idea. How come my lbs did not suggest that...

I believe both Colnago and Synapse can take a wider tire but my coworker recommend against c60 because of its aggressive geometry. I did not know biking can get so technical.

Your CAAD 10 has a more aggressive geometry than the C60 so not sure what your co-worker is on about. Some good advice has been given here. If you do want a new bike, of the choices you have put down, the Synapse has the more relaxed geometry, the most aggressive is the Evo (same as the Caad10), followed by the C60 and then the Synapse.

cycleclinic

I have a alu framed bike and it gives the most silky ride of any of the bikes I own. Why 27mm Vittoria Pave tubular tyres run at 80psi front 90 psi rear. I could run lower and I have sometimes as well.

The frame has a small impact on ride comfort the tyre width, casing TPI and pressures have a bigger impact. For comfort look at high TPI tyres in 25mm+ width and run them at no more than 90psi but at the OP's weight alot less can be used . Or run 25mm wide tubs and you will have a comfortable ride in term of lack of road buzz.

Stop looking at a bike as a complete package like a car starting looking at it combination of parts which can and should be changed to suit you. More difficult with a car but easy with a bike.

on-yer-bike

DO NOT put Dura Ace on a C60, it just wont work.

epoints

Here is a really dumb question: If I lower the pressure on my 23mm, will I accomplish the same result of softer ride?

Should I consider c59 instead of c60?

dj58

Yes you can lower the pressures of your 23mm's and it won't cost you anything, unless you go to low then you will end up with pinch flats and possibly damaged rims. Why don't you just buy some 25-28mm tyres as already suggested?

Monty Dog

Wider tyres have a bigger, rounded carcass which provides more progressive handling as you swing from turn to turn - can be very noticeable with a narrower tyre and you can loose grip at the point you want it. As said, you'll more likely puncture running a 23mm tyre at lower pressures.

epoints

heehee.... I already ordered and shipping is on the way!!! One LBS suggested not to go with disc because of my weight would not benefit from disc.