cassette and chain
Sprool
Posts: 1,022
Have done over 2500 miles on my Canyon CF SL 7.0 since I got it in March - time for new cassette and chain I think, despite the fact its not yet slipping and its still changing gear slickly (i keep it pretty well maintained). It came with a Shimano HG81-10, 11 - 32 tooth which is sold as a mtb cassette. I'm happy to stick with a 32-t granny cog despite derision from fellow cyclists, I cannot pedal up Winnats pass after a 60 mile route unless I have a 32 on the back. Theres a few other nasty gradients 16%+ around my area that feature in many outings.
I want to swap out the chain at the same time, no idea what the current chain is but I see some are sold as road and some as MTB chains, do I therefore need a MTB chain? Is there a difference? What about these asymmetrical ones that have a specific running direction - is that all technobabble? Any recommendations for a suitable 10-sp chain, the rest of the groupset is Shimano 105, I'd favour the quick-link power link thingy over Shimano's silly chain pins for fixing.
I want to swap out the chain at the same time, no idea what the current chain is but I see some are sold as road and some as MTB chains, do I therefore need a MTB chain? Is there a difference? What about these asymmetrical ones that have a specific running direction - is that all technobabble? Any recommendations for a suitable 10-sp chain, the rest of the groupset is Shimano 105, I'd favour the quick-link power link thingy over Shimano's silly chain pins for fixing.
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You can use any 10 speed chain you like.
SRAM, KMC, Connex chains come with a quicklink, but you can use a quicklink with Shimano chains too, so lots of options.0 -
Why change it and possibly introduce a potential problem, when its all working fine right now? :shock:0
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Any KMC X10 chain would be my recommendation.
For example:-
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/kmc- ... lsrc=aw.ds
In fact just fitted a Shimano SLX HG81-10 cassette and KMC X10-73 quicklink chain to a bike build for my grandson and they worked perfectly [Shimano 105 RD5700 medium cage (GS) rear derailleur plus Shimano CX50 (46/36) crankset].
The X10-73 is £13 from CRC - you can spend more if you wish and go for one of the higher specced KMC versions eg the 93 or SL silver)0 -
My understanding is that stretched and worn chains cause more wear, and by paying a little to replace chain after 2000 miles or a year then you save longer term wear and tear on your crank rings, which are a lot more costly to replace. If you put a new chain on an old cassette then you get slippage issues, I've had experience of that on an old bike, so I always change both cassette and chain together nowadays.Brailsford Bad wrote:Why change it and possibly introduce a potential problem, when its all working fine right now? :shock:
The X10 sounds a good choice0 -
My road bike came fitted with Shimano transmission components and KMC X10 L chain, (now named X10 EL) with quick link. As mentioned above the KMC chains can be used on road and MTB's and are non directional.
http://www.kmcchain.eu/products-multipl ... derailleur0 -
Sprool wrote:
My understanding is that stretched and worn chains cause more wear, and by paying a little to replace chain after 2000 miles or a year then you save longer term wear and tear on your crank rings, which are a lot more costly to replace. If you put a new chain on an old cassette then you get slippage issues, I've had experience of that on an old bike, so I always change both cassette and chain together nowadays.Brailsford Bad wrote:Why change it and possibly introduce a potential problem, when its all working fine right now? :shock:
The X10 sounds a good choice
IME, stretched and worn chains do cause an issue...but the key is knowing when the chain is getting worn or is worn. Typical chain replacement time for me is when it measures between 0.5 and 0.75 or I replace cassette and chain if I have let the chain go beyond 1.00. Another usual cassette swap regime is 3 or 4 chains per cassette when changing at 0.75.
Chain wear can vary greatly depending on usage and weather. The trick is to learn when a chain is getting worn and then swapping promptly.
As for cranks, I have adopted the 'check every 20 years or 100,000 miles, which ever is appropriate' approach.0 -
No naming and shaming here!
Think the current setup will last me ok through the filthy winter months, esp as my weekly mileage takes a dent in the winter, then when the weather starts to brighten in the spring i will fit me a new cassette and chain0 -
Cassette should last at least twice as long as the chain...English Cycles V3 | Cervelo P5 | Cervelo T4 | Trek Domane Koppenberg0
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Up until 3-4 years ago, no one bothered checking chains. Strangely enough, there were no widespread problems with drive chains.
Chains and cassettes wear together, and putting a new chain on a part worn cassette simply encourages the chain to wear quicker so it meshes with the older cassette.
You can ride a chain and cassette into the ground; I've done it. I've used a chain and cassette for a year of racing then put the same chain and cassette onto my winter trainer and used it for 4, that's four years of training and had no problems at all.
You don't need to measure chains, you simply use the same cassette/chain combo until you get tired of it; shifting issues are 99% to do with cables, not chains.0 -
My TT bike sees 4 different cassettes each season with the same chain and never had an issue. My Wyndy sees 3 different cassettes, and again no issue. In fact, I know loads of people who swap cassettes regularly and they never have issues.English Cycles V3 | Cervelo P5 | Cervelo T4 | Trek Domane Koppenberg0
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So the answer is to change cassettes regularly?
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No I'm saying there's no issue with putting a new chain on a partially worn cassette.English Cycles V3 | Cervelo P5 | Cervelo T4 | Trek Domane Koppenberg0
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Nor is there an issue with using the chain and the cassette as a unit and wearing them out together, which is what I suggested.0
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Um, no.
Show your working out then....0 -
You say to wear the cassette and chain together and then replace them. This is a 1:1 ratio.
I say you should be able have a cassette last through at least 2 chains. This is a 2:1 ratio.
With my method you purchase half as many cassettes. Do I need to draw you a picture?English Cycles V3 | Cervelo P5 | Cervelo T4 | Trek Domane Koppenberg0 -
What, with crayons?
Look at my post up there, one chain, one cassette lasting a year of racing then four years on a training bike.
Tell me again how many chains you'll go through, and how many cassettes?
It's not about ratios, Professor. :roll:0 -
Many chains and not many cassettes. The chain on my Ritchey is at 3k miles and is almost done. The cassette has done identical mileage and is just fine.
You can't use time as a metric as it's useless when it comes to wear. A year of racing isn't a lot of mileage (and really doesn't wear components faster than any other riding) and who knows how much you do on the training bike.English Cycles V3 | Cervelo P5 | Cervelo T4 | Trek Domane Koppenberg0
