Interesting saddle height/position technique

Guys,
Did a skills course yesterday with Chase Skills (highly recommended) and spent the first 20 minutes or so going over bike setup.
When it got to saddle height & position I was introduced to a technique I'd not heard of before.
Basically it involves putting the saddle under your arm pit and pointing directly down the tube at the centre of the crank. The idea being that the end of your middle finger should be on the centre of the crank axle.
I adjusted the seat and this gives a nice leg length (not too dissimilar from heel on pedal).
Then fore/aft position was adjusted by placing elbow on nose of saddle and adjusting until middle finger just brushes the inside edge of the bars. (obviously doesn't work if you have a mahoosive stem or a frame that's too big!).
Jumped on my bike and rode around the car park and it felt immediately better - felt more balanced on the bike and more efficient when pedalling.
Interesting technique - anyone else heard it before or indeed used it?
Did a skills course yesterday with Chase Skills (highly recommended) and spent the first 20 minutes or so going over bike setup.
When it got to saddle height & position I was introduced to a technique I'd not heard of before.
Basically it involves putting the saddle under your arm pit and pointing directly down the tube at the centre of the crank. The idea being that the end of your middle finger should be on the centre of the crank axle.
I adjusted the seat and this gives a nice leg length (not too dissimilar from heel on pedal).
Then fore/aft position was adjusted by placing elbow on nose of saddle and adjusting until middle finger just brushes the inside edge of the bars. (obviously doesn't work if you have a mahoosive stem or a frame that's too big!).
Jumped on my bike and rode around the car park and it felt immediately better - felt more balanced on the bike and more efficient when pedalling.
Interesting technique - anyone else heard it before or indeed used it?
_______________
Chris
Current FS: 2017 Nukeproof Mega 275
Current HT: 2017 Nukeproof Scout 275
Kids Carrera Blast Refurb/Upgrade
My Blog - Midlife MTB Mutterings
Previous FS: 2014 Nukeproof Mega TR 26'er
Chris
Current FS: 2017 Nukeproof Mega 275
Current HT: 2017 Nukeproof Scout 275
Kids Carrera Blast Refurb/Upgrade
My Blog - Midlife MTB Mutterings
Previous FS: 2014 Nukeproof Mega TR 26'er
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It gives a good starting point but it's still worth experimenting a bit either side of those positions.
And reach where it is comfortable.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
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Parktools
But it's given me a better riding position than previously.
Will need a bit of tweeking but I'm more comfortable on the bike than I was before.
Chris
Current FS: 2017 Nukeproof Mega 275
Current HT: 2017 Nukeproof Scout 275
Kids Carrera Blast Refurb/Upgrade
My Blog - Midlife MTB Mutterings
Previous FS: 2014 Nukeproof Mega TR 26'er
What you have had done is basically what has been done since the advert of the safety cycle.
Where people sat on their bikes all the time.
So bikes gave come on leaps and bounds the geometry has change out of all proportion.
Mmmm
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
As an easy to adjust (off the bike) starting position they work well for most people, but it is just a starting position, the for and aft is less accurate as it takes no account of torso length which does vary wildly versus arm length.
VOODOO CANZO
Come and see me at https://www.facebook.com/biketyke/
^^^ This
Joking in part.
If everyone's bikes are horribly setup this is obviously time well spent and sounds like the OP benefited which doesnt surprise me as a lot of people run their saddle too low and simply centred on the rails.
The for and aft guide was pants for me as I have a long torso and short arms and legs for my height, so the technique said my saddle was too far back when if anything it's a little too far forward, but for the majority of people it's a reasonable starting point.
Why pointless? It's potentially not as efficient, but everything still holds true. I'm in two minds really. I'd like to hope that a decent trainer would point out any massive issues, but I don't think you should start by messing around too much with what people know.
I've done two skills sessions, one was extremely prescriptive: "saddle height needs to be this", "bars need to be here", "you need to run flats, you can't learn skills on SPDs" etc etc, the other one looked at bikes and just said "I'm gonna tweak your brake levers slightly", and that was it. I know which I preferred!
Was that after he'd seen you ride? Or by just looking. I tend to say try this rather than you need this.
VOODOO CANZO
Come and see me at https://www.facebook.com/biketyke/