Correctly fitted fully integrated headset?

othello

I've fitted a new headset to my new CX frame (A GT Type 1) but it doesn't look right to me!

The frame spec says it takes a 1 1/8 fully integrated. I bought one of these (a Token one) and being fully integrated it doesn't require pressing into the frame, the bearings just rest on the surfaces.

I did that but there is a gap between the top cover and the frame, and the bottom race sticks out below the frame. The headset is preloaded tight and there is no rocking with the brake on. But it can't be right can it? There is a big gap for water/muck to get in!

me-109

Lower bearing not seated on fork crown?

imposter2.0

You might have the upper & lower bearings in the wrong ends?

othello

Imposter wrote:

You might have the upper & lower bearings in the wrong ends?

I didn't realise they were top/bottom specific! I'll pop them out and take a look.

othello

I have just switched the bearings around to see if they were top and bottom specific, but no joy. The gap is still there.

Maybe the GT spec is not correct, and the headset isn't fully integrated?

crankycrank

Are you sure you have the correct bearings? I'm not certain but I believe yours is supposed to have a 36deg x 45deg bearing/headset and it appears yours are 45 x 45. But as I said I'm not certain what is supposed to be fitted to your frame. If you still have the old headset check the bearing angles.

keezx

Headset is the wrong size.
Obvious you need a Cane Creek standard headset with 41 mm dia....

othello

Keezx wrote:

Headset is the wrong size.
Obvious you need a Cane Creek standard headset with 41 mm dia....

After some digging it turns out the spec I was using is wrong, and yes I need a 41mm. Doh!

keezx

Was quite clear to me because I made that mistake myself a couple of years ago...
Was an Italian frame , but not a Campy headset...

chatlow

/I have the exact same problem.. but on a Scott headset I re-greased. There appears to be a 1mm gap between the races at the top and the bottom of the headset. Is this normal or should the unit be tightly sealed together with no gaps at all? I've tigthened the head bolt but not too much (as advised)

chatlow

Here are top and bottom pics of my headset. Sorry to hijack the thread - just saves me creating very similar one

keezx

Those gaps depend on the frame.
As far as I know the position of the bearings in the frame is not exactly normalised.
For the topcover often small spacers of 0,2 mm are included to adjust the gap.
With one of my frames I had to buy another crown race to make it fit, the fork touched the frame....
0,5 to 1 mm is normal IMO.

blackpoolkev

chatlow wrote:

Here are top and bottom pics of my headset. Sorry to hijack the thread - just saves me creating very similar one

Hi- recently replaced my headset on my Scott CR1-SL (Carbon stem). The instructions with the Superlogic headset (1 and 1/8 non-tapered) stated "seat the fork crown race evenly onto the fork". I'm thinking "no problem, just push it into position".
However when I try to seat the bottom crown race it doesn't want to go all the way to the end of the stem of the forks.
So I'm reading stuff in the instructions about machining the forks to accommodate the crown race and that worries me, but I'm figuring if the old one fitted then so should the new one.
I want to apply even pressure onto the crown race. It is a fairly delicate component so I don't want to bash it unevenly.
The only thing to apply the even pressure is the new bearing and cup.
Using a workbench set vice, I supported the new cup and bearing(upside down and with some cloth to soften the vice against cup abrasion) and slotted the fork with the new (not quite seated) crown race through the cup and bearing.
Now I have to apply some pressure without damaging the forks or the bearings or the crown race.
The following is not for the faint hearted - I rested the rubber handle of a hammer across the U -bend of the upturned forks, then "applied some pressure" vertically downwards using a bar, mallet and a trusting friend to hold things in place! At first, gentle taps didn't seem to move the crown race into position but a bit of grease and a bit more careful persuasion encouraged it into position.
Not the kind of thing you'll read in any manual but I now have a snugly fitted headset - no play, no gaps and smooth like new.

keezx

I've read the whole story, but still don't know what you want to state.
Yes, crown races sometimes need some persuation to get on their place, ist that it?
Is that the case I do not agree with your approach.
The force should be applied to the race directly by a tube or someting else that fits over the steerer.
In heavy cases the race has to be widened by sanding or so, never by narrowing the steerer.

g00se

Alternatively, cut a slot in the race (and sand the edges so they won't cut into the steerer). It'll slip over easy then - and the cut won't compromise the race. Some come already cut.

veronese68

To seat a crown race get a piece of plastic tube, waste pipe for a sink worked for me, slip it over the steerer and hit the end with a mallet. Hold the forks between your knees so you don't damage them.