BB30 still something to avoid?
GSSK
Posts: 26
Hi,
After looking at some Cannondale bikes and researching the BB30 I've seen numerous bad things about it in particular the clicking noise that it seems to make after a few months use. Whilst looking at some Specialized bikes, admittedly the cheaper end, they're also fitted with a BB30 bottom bracket. My question is, are they still something to avoid or have they been refined?
After looking at some Cannondale bikes and researching the BB30 I've seen numerous bad things about it in particular the clicking noise that it seems to make after a few months use. Whilst looking at some Specialized bikes, admittedly the cheaper end, they're also fitted with a BB30 bottom bracket. My question is, are they still something to avoid or have they been refined?
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Mate has a BB30 on his Bianchi and it has been through 2 Scottish winters of salt and muck and only now starting to creak, others manage to get a few weeks or months before the dreaded sounds start, I managed about 1 year out of mine then the noises started so swapped it out for a Praxis convertor. You pays your money and take your chances0
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I had no trouble with my BB30 for 2.5 years though, because I wanted to a standard Shimano crank, I have no converted it using the Praxis converter. Honestly I wouldn't worry too much.ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH0
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If you're going to ride in all weathers and not a stickler for maintenance, then the pitfalls of BB30 are going to show-up sooner rather than later. If you're prepared to hang-up your bike after a wet ride and remove the seatpost to let the water run-out it'll last a little longer. There are plenty of proven BB designs out there without the hassle of BB30 IMO - I run BB86 and BB92 on a CX and MTB respectively - they see regular immersion over the BB, require no maintenance and don't creak.Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..0
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On balance, I'd avoid BB30 but if the frame/bike that I really wanted had it then I'd probably bite the bullet and get it anyway (then convert it).
You'll always get individuals with good stories and individuals with bad ones. That's the nature of statistics. I have a friend who smokes like a chimney blah blah blah.
For me, having a metal crank axle spinning directly on metal bearings, pressed into metal bearing shells is always going to risk a creaky future, and thus should be avoided. And the benefits of a narrower crank axle are, well, there aren't any frankly. So it all comes down to how much you want a Cannondale/Specialized et al.Facts are meaningless, you can use facts to prove anything that's remotely true! - Homer0 -
It's a lottery really. Manufacturing tolerances can render some bikes frames (the BB shell) less BB30 friendly than others. I went through 3 sets of bearings in <500 (dry) miles on a CAAD10. I know people who've had CAAD10's for quite a while and never had a single issue.
You could remove/install the non-drive side cartridge on mine without tools and without too much force. I've since converted mine to BSA 68mm with an adapter sleeve. No more problems.
I'd still buy a BB30 frame I'd just also factor in the cost of a the adapter sleeve and a Shimano chainset.“Training is like fighting with a gorilla. You don’t stop when you’re tired. You stop when the gorilla is tired.”0 -
I wouldnt buy BB30 again after issues with my caad8.
It was an absolute pig in the first 1000 miles however i have now done a further 3000 with no issue after having the bearings replaced.But recently it is just starting to develop a slight click so im guessing the fun and games is about to start again.
There are constant threads about BB30 - more so than any other BB set up which kind of says it all IMO0
