Best brake pads

stevenb

In deciding to keep my Felt F75X bike I want to upgrade the braking performance and it seems new brake pads should do the trick fitted to my existing Tektro canti's.
I've not really got the money to afford CX9's for example or Avid Shorty Ultimates so at least if a new set of pads can help me out for now I can transfer them to the new brakes when I can finally afford them.

My existing brake pads are pretty pants so I would imagine most half decent pads will be far better.

I've looked at Swissstop pads but there are expensive and two pairs would be over half the cost of new CX9's.
Is there a competitively priced pad out there?

The bike is going to be primarily a winter road bike with the odd CX race chucked in for good fun.

VamP

Swisstops greens are the best, and the Ultimates include these in the price, so that's worth considering.

stevenb

VamP wrote:

Swisstops greens are the best, and the Ultimates include these in the price, so that's worth considering.

Really?
The adverts and pictures show otherwise.
Everywhere I've looked lists them as coming with standard cartridge pads.

shazzz

Koolstop dual compound in my Tektro Cantis.
Works well enough for me although well short of normal road caliper brake performance.
It's worth spending time getting them set up properly. Straddle wire adjustment, good toe in, etc, makes a huge difference. This is a worthwhile read on the topic but it really comes down to trial and error...
http://www.cxmagazine.com/gut-wrenching-mechanical-mondays-brake-setup

VamP

stevenb wrote:

VamP wrote:

Swisstops greens are the best, and the Ultimates include these in the price, so that's worth considering.

Really?
The adverts and pictures show otherwise.
Everywhere I've looked lists them as coming with standard cartridge pads.

SRAM by swisstop is what you will see if you look closely. I have two sets and both came with swisstop greens, as did everyone elses I know.

stevenb

VamP wrote:

stevenb wrote:

VamP wrote:

Swisstops greens are the best, and the Ultimates include these in the price, so that's worth considering.

Really?
The adverts and pictures show otherwise.
Everywhere I've looked lists them as coming with standard cartridge pads.

SRAM by swisstop is what you will see if you look closely. I have two sets and both came with swisstop greens, as did everyone elses I know.

Ah, I see. I saw the SRAM logo but didn't realise they were Swissstop pads.
My TRP R920's on my road bike came with Swissstop pads and Swissstop is etched on the pads.

The CX9's are well worth bearing in mind.
I've seen them at £69.99 a pair but not sure on the pad quality.
Might just try and go for the pads for now with my limited budget.

stevenb

shazzz wrote:

Koolstop dual compound in my Tektro Cantis.
Works well enough for me although well short of normal road caliper brake performance.
It's worth spending time getting them set up properly. Straddle wire adjustment, good toe in, etc, makes a huge difference. This is a worthwhile read on the topic but it really comes down to trial and error...
http://www.cxmagazine.com/gut-wrenching-mechanical-mondays-brake-setup

Thanks.
I take it they are better than the stock pads that came with the bike?
I am running CR720's and CR710's and the pads are useless apart from leisurely dry road riding.

I have read quite a few articles and there are some good points.
I bought some Yokozuna brake/gear cable for my road bike and there was some left over which I gave to the guy at the LBS.
Might see if he still wants it as combined with some decent calipers/pads that would be great.

mercia_man

Koolstop dual compound and/or salmon pads work great with my cantis.

shazzz

stevenb wrote:

shazzz wrote:

Koolstop dual compound in my Tektro Cantis.
Works well enough for me although well short of normal road caliper brake performance.
It's worth spending time getting them set up properly. Straddle wire adjustment, good toe in, etc, makes a huge difference. This is a worthwhile read on the topic but it really comes down to trial and error...
http://www.cxmagazine.com/gut-wrenching-mechanical-mondays-brake-setup

Thanks.
I take it they are better than the stock pads that came with the bike?
I am running CR720's and CR710's and the pads are useless apart from leisurely dry road riding.

I have read quite a few articles and there are some good points.
I bought some Yokozuna brake/gear cable for my road bike and there was some left over which I gave to the guy at the LBS.
Might see if he still wants it as combined with some decent calipers/pads that would be great.

Yes, they are much better than the original pads although, tbh, I didn't spend too much time trying to set the originals up properly - I was expecting them to be binned when I bought the brakes.
My Tektros are 520s - I think the same as the 720s except yours have cartridge pads.

stevenb

As my Canti's use cartridge pads are the V-Brake pads the ones I need to ensure they are compatible? There are loads of versions out there.
Cheers

shazzz

Yep. I think these are the ones for you...
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/kool-stop-v-bra ... f-inserts/

Chris James

stevenb wrote:

shazzz wrote:

It's worth spending time getting them set up properly. Straddle wire adjustment, good toe in, etc, makes a huge difference. This is a worthwhile read on the topic but it really comes down to trial and error...

Thanks.
I take it they are better than the stock pads that came with the bike?
I am running CR720's and CR710's and the pads are useless apart from leisurely dry road riding.

It might be worth playing with your setup. I have CR720s on my bike and am still running the stock pads and they have been fine in races. When I wear out the front I will put Koolstop Salmons on as they are good on my summer road bike.

stevenb

shazzz wrote:

Yep. I think these are the ones for you...
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/kool-stop-v-bra ... f-inserts/

Thanks. I spotted those but wasn't sure if they were too long.
I might email Wiggle and ask them if they will fit.
Just seen the Q&A and someone with 720's asked if they will fit and Wiggle said yes.
Kool 8)

stevenb

Chris James wrote:

stevenb wrote:

shazzz wrote:

It's worth spending time getting them set up properly. Straddle wire adjustment, good toe in, etc, makes a huge difference. This is a worthwhile read on the topic but it really comes down to trial and error...

Thanks.
I take it they are better than the stock pads that came with the bike?
I am running CR720's and CR710's and the pads are useless apart from leisurely dry road riding.

It might be worth playing with your setup. I have CR720s on my bike and am still running the stock pads and they have been fine in races. When I wear out the front I will put Koolstop Salmons on as they are good on my summer road bike.

The oem ones haven't been too bad in the dry. Just the wet. They are a PITA to set up properly though. had a quick look last night before I gave up and went to bed. probably best not tackled near bedtime when your tired.

FransJacques

I'd follow the good advice from the CXmagazine article posted earlier up the thread.

a) get all the friction out of your brake cables - take the cable off the brake and hold the bare cable between your fingers and apply the brake - you'll quickly feel and friction - the run of cable from the aft TT cable stop to the seat cluster cable stop is esp friction prone - trimming or lengthening for a cleaner line can help. Visualize it. Try some Shimano SLR cables if you can find them. If you're keen to experiment, try a shifter cable (1.2mm) instead of brake cable (1.4-1.6mm) but with brake housing. More interior room = less friction. Pedants will tell you that you can't do it, but 3 London League Vet podiums speak for themselves. I've since changed it out, it was a stop gap measure but I'd do it again. You might need to add a washer on the swaged button to make it a bit larger.

b) if your CR720s have adjustable spring tension - when centering the brakes, instead of cranking on the side which is closer to the rim, release tension from the side that pulls further away from the rim. The principle is to end up with the LEAST amount of spring tension to separate the brake arms back to their resting position. Any excess will counter your hand strength, as considerable as is might be.

c) Ensure you have MTB 72mm pad holders (and pads duh) and not road pads. Longer pads = more contact area. I have some TRP Eurox which come stock with road shoes. I ditched them on the rear the rear in favour of 72mm pads and the dry performance was awesome, the wet a bit better. Not night and day but the improvement I was looking for.

d) Swiss stop Green 72mms. Sorry, with these babies you get what you pay for.

Let us know how you get on...