Cassette/Chainrings

littlerascal
littlerascal Posts: 47
edited September 2014 in Road general
Hi Guys

I have read or seen a video that suggests for climbing you want a 28 - 32 cassette at the back and a 50/34 on the front.

I am currently riding a 28 at the back and a 50/34 at the front but want feel I am not getting enough cadence when climbing.

Would a Sram PG1070 10 speed 32 cassette improve my climbing?

Thanks

Comments

  • keezx
    keezx Posts: 1,322
    IF your gear isn't low enough, you gotta have lower, so yes.
    Maybe it doesn't make you faster, but it is probably easyer.
  • Thanks Keezx

    Its not speed I am worried about its effort, I find when climbing long hills I don't have the stamina or strength cause of the cassette
  • There's nothing wrong with wanting lower gears, but if you have a compact and a 28t cog and are struggling on hills, depending on how nasty those hills are, you just need to work on your fitness; though training is nearly always the answer to this question.

    However, it does depend on the standard you are working to - whatever you may read about optimum cadence, it takes a very, very high level of fitness to maintain 90rpm up the very toughest climbs with the gears most road bikes have as standard - far beyond what many amateurs are capable of.

    By all means go for lower gearing if you want to - though there are limits to this - but if you just want easy gearing, you'd be better off getting a triple as well.
  • I run a 34 28 as my lowest gear and don't have problems with anything. I've been on a road bike since February and live in North Wales and have done a bunch of some of our nasty hills up in the mountains. Not that there hasn't been times where I'd have loved another gear but a bit of HTFU helps a long way for me.
  • ...
    I am currently riding a 28 at the back and a 50/34 at the front but want feel I am not getting enough cadence when climbing.
    ...
    ========================================
    If you can stay seated with the 28 and make it up the hills, then the 28 is ok.
    If you have to stand, and can barely keep moving, then a 32 would make things easier.

    Jay Kosta
    Endwell NY USA
  • I'm contemplating going the other way with my next cassette change. I doubt it'll make a huge difference, I figure if I'm going to end up grinding away at 40 RPM I might as well force myself to do it in a bigger gear.
    I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.
  • I have a 34/29 lowest gear and a couple of years ago when I first started tackling stiff climbs, bottom gear was always my default setting. However, as I get older(49) and not much fitter, I find the experience of riding hills has taught me that relying purely on a low gear isn't the be all and end all.
    Spinning a high cadence on a hill isn't the same as spinning on flat roads. I have learned that grinding a slightly higher gear at a lower cadence actually takes less out of me. Also get used to riding out of the saddle even if you don't need to (imagine that you are Alberto Contador!), it will help more muscle groups develop and give you an extra option when things get tough.
  • trailflow
    trailflow Posts: 1,311
    If you dont already have one you will need to buy a sram long cage rear derailleur (called sram wifli) aswell to accommodate the 32t cassette. Short cage rear derailleurs only go up to 28t.
  • StillGoing
    StillGoing Posts: 5,211
    I have a 34/29 lowest gear and a couple of years ago when I first started tackling stiff climbs, bottom gear was always my default setting. However, as I get older(49) and not much fitter, I find the experience of riding hills has taught me that relying purely on a low gear isn't the be all and end all.
    Spinning a high cadence on a hill isn't the same as spinning on flat roads. I have learned that grinding a slightly higher gear at a lower cadence actually takes less out of me. Also get used to riding out of the saddle even if you don't need to (imagine that you are Alberto Contador!), it will help more muscle groups develop and give you an extra option when things get tough.

    And goes against all the standard advise about climbing.

    Stay seated it conserves energy, don't grind because you risk knackering your knees and it isn't efficient.

    http://roadcyclinguk.com/how-to/techniq ... ips.html/2
    I ride a bike. Doesn't make me green or a tree hugger. I drive a car too.
  • DavidJB
    DavidJB Posts: 2,019
    JayKosta wrote:
    ...
    I am currently riding a 28 at the back and a 50/34 at the front but want feel I am not getting enough cadence when climbing.
    ...
    ========================================
    If you can stay seated with the 28 and make it up the hills, then the 28 is ok.
    If you have to stand, and can barely keep moving, then a 32 would make things easier.

    Jay Kosta
    Endwell NY USA

    Hang on I stand on every climb over 4%~ it doesn't mean I need a new cassette ;)
  • DavidJB
    DavidJB Posts: 2,019
    philthy3 wrote:
    I have a 34/29 lowest gear and a couple of years ago when I first started tackling stiff climbs, bottom gear was always my default setting. However, as I get older(49) and not much fitter, I find the experience of riding hills has taught me that relying purely on a low gear isn't the be all and end all.
    Spinning a high cadence on a hill isn't the same as spinning on flat roads. I have learned that grinding a slightly higher gear at a lower cadence actually takes less out of me. Also get used to riding out of the saddle even if you don't need to (imagine that you are Alberto Contador!), it will help more muscle groups develop and give you an extra option when things get tough.

    And goes against all the standard advise about climbing.

    Stay seated it conserves energy, don't grind because you risk knackering your knees and it isn't efficient.

    http://roadcyclinguk.com/how-to/techniq ... ips.html/2

    Climb how you like, it's all opinion just because it's on roadcyclinguk doesn't mean it's good advice. I'm hardly ever seated on a climb and actually find it much better to be standing...but a few years ago I used to stay seated all the time after an entire winter on the turbo...either way works but when I'm popping I like the dance on those pedals ;)
  • dilatory wrote:
    I run a 34 28 as my lowest gear and don't have problems with anything. I've been on a road bike since February and live in North Wales and have done a bunch of some of our nasty hills up in the mountains. Not that there hasn't been times where I'd have loved another gear but a bit of HTFU helps a long way for me.


    Hills around my area are signed posted at 16% which for me is fine but due to the length of the hill I need a lower gear.
  • Pass, been trying to find it but it was a while ago.

    Is it a myth or will this ratio help with climbing?
  • imposter2.0
    imposter2.0 Posts: 12,028
    Its not speed I am worried about its effort, I find when climbing long hills I don't have the stamina or strength cause of the cassette

    You may not have the stamina or 'strength' - but it's not the cassette's fault.
  • Ok perhaps wrong word

    I don't have the appropriate cassette
  • philthy3 wrote:
    I have a 34/29 lowest gear and a couple of years ago when I first started tackling stiff climbs, bottom gear was always my default setting. However, as I get older(49) and not much fitter, I find the experience of riding hills has taught me that relying purely on a low gear isn't the be all and end all.
    Spinning a high cadence on a hill isn't the same as spinning on flat roads. I have learned that grinding a slightly higher gear at a lower cadence actually takes less out of me. Also get used to riding out of the saddle even if you don't need to (imagine that you are Alberto Contador!), it will help more muscle groups develop and give you an extra option when things get tough.

    And goes against all the standard advise about climbing

    So riding at a lower cadence on hills and getting used to riding out of the saddle is wrong? Thanks for that.
  • 964cup
    964cup Posts: 1,362
    What a lot of opinions. The practical answer to the OP's question is that you will need:

    11-32 cassette
    Medium or long cage rear derailleur
    Probably a new chain (because you'll need some more links if your current chain is correctly sized)

    Technically it should work fine, although you'll need to check your B screw setting carefully. Whether it works for you or not is entirely up to you.
  • Many thanks 964Cup

    I have emailed my local shop (Evans) asking what they advise but wanted to hear from actual people who won't fob me off just to get a sale.