Best spray paint system?

kleinstroker

Hi

I'm going to revamp my old Focus Cayo 2010 with a Ritte type spray job. Have resprayed a carbon fork before using Halfords spray paints, but found them very thin and likely to run too easily for someone as impatient as myself.
Any recommendations on better quality custom colour spray paints and where to buy in London if possible?

Cheers

rolf_f

I've never found Halfords paint to be particularly thin. As long as they are shaken properly, they seem to be fine. Wouldn't want them that thick anyway.

In any case, even if it sounded like you had the right amount of patience for the job this sort of thing isn't worth doing yourself. Spend a long time flatting the frame down and then take it to a professional - a plain colour will probably not cost much more than you'll spend on dozens of cans of Halfords spray, it will look better and last infinitely longer. If you have any sense, you'll then get the painter to do the Ritte stripes but that at least is something you could do yourself though less well!

Good luck with however you play it!

napoleond

House of kolor reputedly make damn fine paints.

rolf_f

NapoleonD wrote:

House of kolor reputedly make damn fine paints.

Personally, I koldn't have the produkts of a company that can't even spell it's own produkt in the hose! Yucc!

team47b

Paint is only thin if it is not shaken fully.

If the paint runs, you are too close.

Select paint that is suitable for plastic.

dj58

Try an automotive paint and body repair supplier who can custom fill aerosol cans, they are usually very knowledgeable regarding paint types and prep./application processes.

As already pointed out paint in aerosol cans is a thin mix and needs to be thoroughly agitated before use. You need patience and to use a lot of thin coats allowing for flash off between coats. If you are getting paint runs you are to close to the work piece and/or moving the spray can to slowly, applying to thick a coating in one go.

kleinstroker

By thin I didn't mean physically thin/runny I meant very poor coverage, so more coats needed to get a decent colour. More coats means more chance of runs. I'll check out House of Kulur though!

g00se

Experiment with graffiti can nozzles - you can get different types for different coverage (I used to help out with a budget DIY bike frame customization charity).

https://www.graff-city.com/index.php?cPath=1_87

http://granjow.net/sprayCaps.html

You probably want a standard or fat cap with soft edges.

In fact, proper, decent graffiti paint isn't too bad for rattle-can paint jobs on frames, as long as you use a lacquer afterwards. It flows quite well and does a decent job of hiding imperfections, with the right prep and nozzle, in doesn't need that many coats. Kobra and Montana Gold: https://www.graff-city.com/index.php?cPath=19

imposter2.0

Humbrol spray paints (same lot that make the 'airfix' type paint in the tiny tins) - highly recommended. The OP is right that some sprays just don't go on very well, no matter how much you shake them, or prep the surface.

desweller

kleinstroker wrote:

Hi

I'm going to revamp my old Focus Cayo 2010 with a Ritte type spray job. Have resprayed a carbon fork before using Halfords spray paints, but found them very thin and likely to run too easily for someone as impatient as myself.
Any recommendations on better quality custom colour spray paints and where to buy in London if possible?

Cheers

There's your problem. Patience is essential to getting a good finish. Warm weather is too, so unless you have a heated shed I'd consider leaving this until next summer!

kleinstroker

Have now decided to buy either a small compressor and LVLP spray gun or cheapish HVLP system. I'm pretty sure this wont be the last bike I spray so might be worth it to spend a bit more now.
Any advice gladly taken

KINGGARY

Strip your bike, take it to a local body shop and ask them to paint it.
They will have colour swabs for you to chose from and the quality of a decent water based paint , baked in an oven will far surpass anything you can achieve with a spray can.
Aerosols are fine for some repairs , but will not harden enough to take on the rigours of a bike. Your fork bridge and chain stay will be chipped in no time.
Cost wise, it shouldn't cost much more than £50-100.

kleinstroker

Thanks Gary

but I'm definitely going the DIY route. The paint job I have in mind is 3 colours so wouldn't be cheap to get done. Plus I want to learn how to do it, and as I said I'm not using rattle cans anymore

cubedean

kleinstroker wrote:

Thanks Gary

but I'm definitely going the DIY route. The paint job I have in mind is 3 colours so wouldn't be cheap to get done. Plus I want to learn how to do it, and as I said I'm not using rattle cans anymore

But it also won't be cheap or easy to do yourself.

A reasonable size compressor & good spray gun will cost as much as having someone do it for you. Factor in a water trap in the airline & cost of primer, paints (generally supplied in as a 1L minimum), thinners & clears and you are well in excess of a company doing it for you.

I thought about repainting my Gios myself, but once you have factored all of the costs in, it doesn't become so cheap.

Rourke & the likes charge between £100-£140 for strip, paint & clear (1 colour) +£25 ish per extra colour.

p.s i'm not trying to put you off, as i'm all for people learning new skills etc....my view is doing it yourself will be a lot more expensive.

desweller

Go for it. Let us know how you get on mind, I rattlecan'd my tourer a couple of years ago and it needs another go now!

kleinstroker

cubedean wrote:

A reasonable size compressor & good spray gun will cost as much as having someone do it for you. Factor in a water trap in the airline & cost of primer, paints (generally supplied in as a 1L minimum), thinners & clears and you are well in excess of a company doing it for you.

I thought about repainting my Gios myself, but once you have factored all of the costs in, it doesn't become so cheap.

Rourke & the likes charge between £100-£140 for strip, paint & clear (1 colour) +£25 ish per extra colour.

p.s i'm not trying to put you off, as i'm all for people learning new skills etc....my view is doing it yourself will be a lot more expensive.

I'm looking at LVLP guns which can do same job and need less than 5CFM air compared to normal guns at over 10CFM, so a smaller compressor should hopefully do the job

woolwich

Good luck with your project.
I make all my own and familys frames, getting them painted was starting to get costly so it was worth going down the route you are exploring. Ignoring the cost of the compressor, getting set up needn't cost too much. I started with a gun from Bergen, pretty budget stuff but perfectly up to the job and fully strippable. Done around 10 frames now and the valve seats and springs are still good, cost about £20. I use HVLP, 20-30psi.
Be careful to get a small one, called touch up or mini or something, far easier to get into the stays and clusters with. I am managing primer, top and clear with one nozzle size (1.4mm) using single pack coach enamel. I would recommend getting Water based paint though, dealing with a lot of solvent is a nasty faff, rinsing would be so much easier .
As cubedean mentioned, water trap, inline valve are essential. Do not skimp on respiration/ ventilation. Viscosity of paint is critical so you will need some paint cups.
Environment is important, light the area incredibly well, keep dust out. All in, I spent less than 1 pro paint job. Although I will be getting my next frames done professionally as I cannot control the environment well enough in the autumn/winter.
Above all it is really about practice, practice , practice, patience and a bit more practice. Also nothing ever comes out so bad that it cant be rectified with a bit of work.

Here's my Time Trial bike being home painted in the spring.

kleinstroker

Thanks for the info about HVLP. Any models you recommend particularly or what should I be looking for?

woolwich

Look for small cup size. It's amazing how little paint you need for coverage of one frame. Also this allows better access inside stays etc. Touch up guns seem a good size for a bike frame, I use gravity fed.
Make sure the gun requires much less air than the compressor can give. Say 30% or so less.

Decent spray guns cost a fortune and are unnecessary to begin with. I do not doubt they are worth every penny if you start to take it seriously but wait until you know exactly what you want from a gun before pulling the trigger. Stainless internals are needed of you want to use water based paint. Fully strippable essential, you are going to be spending more time cleaning guns than spraying.
The exact model you go for will be dictated a bit by your choice of paint. Paint spec sheets will suggest nozzle size and viscosity although there is room for a little leeway.
Check ebay, you might drop on some tasty used kit. Or check the range from Bergen. Budget but perfectly decent whilst your finding your feet.

drlodge

I sprayed my kit car in a pretty reasonable fashion, back in 1989, using an Apollo HVLP system, I think the kit cost me about £100 at the time. Good results can be had with modest equipment, is more the preparation and skill when applying paint that makes the difference. I agree with woolwich that not much paint will be needed for a frame, so a touch up type gun seems perfect for this.

kleinstroker

Any ideas how much paint it takes to spray a frame? Would 250ml do it do you think?

woolwich

Each coat will be well less than 50ml. Could be as low as 25 or 30ml, maybe less.
It will depend on the type of paint, how you have mixed it and how well you are spraying.

If it helps , the cup on my gun only holds 100ml and it is more than adequate.

kleinstroker

Cheers Woolwich!

Good to know. I think the gun I'm looking at by Bergen holds about 100ml so that's great.

Ilinor

Just my two cents for the old thread...
Thought I'd do some comparisons for you guys:

The lowes gun has a 1.4 tip, the HF gun has a 1.4 and 1.8 tip.

Upon opening the HF gun the small paint cup had been cross threaded (I am assuming it came off of a shelf, so I got to call and see what they will do).

The HF gun just felt cheap beside the kobalt gun, it was lighter, flimsier and just doesn't feel as good in your hand.

The kobalt cup is much stronger than the flimsy cup with the HF gun.

I am not a professional and have maybe sprayed a total of two cars (mainly pieces here and there) I have sprayed a lot of steel structural stuff with the kobalt gun and it does good with paint and clear. I sprayed my 05 f150 fender with it, and you can't tell a difference in what I done and the factory paint (It was metallic silver two) after it was sanded and buffed.

I originally bought the kobalt gun https://mechanicguides.com/best-automot ... beginners/ for furniture as I build quite a bit of furniture for family and myself as a hobby. I have sprayed laquer, urethane, and enamel with it. All has turned out well.

The only downfall to the kobalt gun is the only tip you can get for it is a 1.4 tip. I plan to use the HF gun for primer with the 1.8 tip.

If I had to choose, It would be the Kobalt gun hands down for the price. I am really curious about the other Kobalt "automotive" gun.